clutch hydraulic problem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
clutch hydraulic problem
i installed a monster stage 3, new gm slave, and tick remote bleeder on my car. i can not get a good feel from the pedal tho.
i've spent atleast 5 hours trying to bleed this car in the past 2 days and went through 2-3 quarts of brake fluid.
i had the inspection cover off, and there is no sign of fluid coming from the slave or either fitting. the quick connect from the master to the slave is dry. also the master cylinder is dry.
i bled using the speedbleeder, the traditional way and using the vac bleeder in the reservoir and on the speedbleeder.
at one point the brake fluid i was getting out of the speedbleeder looked like a carbonated drink with 100s of really tiny little bubbles. eventually i stopped getting air out of the speedbleeder.
the air i keep seeing now is coming up into the reservoir. i would think the master cylinder needs to be changed, but i have doubts.
when i was reconecting the quick connect to the slave i didnt clip it in all the way. so when i was pumping the clutch pedal the first few times, it popped out. and the clutch pedal was absolutley solid. so it seems like if the master were the problem, i would have been able to feel some weakness while trying to push the pedal when it wasnt connected to the slave.
i've spent atleast 5 hours trying to bleed this car in the past 2 days and went through 2-3 quarts of brake fluid.
i had the inspection cover off, and there is no sign of fluid coming from the slave or either fitting. the quick connect from the master to the slave is dry. also the master cylinder is dry.
i bled using the speedbleeder, the traditional way and using the vac bleeder in the reservoir and on the speedbleeder.
at one point the brake fluid i was getting out of the speedbleeder looked like a carbonated drink with 100s of really tiny little bubbles. eventually i stopped getting air out of the speedbleeder.
the air i keep seeing now is coming up into the reservoir. i would think the master cylinder needs to be changed, but i have doubts.
when i was reconecting the quick connect to the slave i didnt clip it in all the way. so when i was pumping the clutch pedal the first few times, it popped out. and the clutch pedal was absolutley solid. so it seems like if the master were the problem, i would have been able to feel some weakness while trying to push the pedal when it wasnt connected to the slave.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
Anyone have any suggestions?
Car was drive able the other day. It stuck to the floor a few times. Today I tried driving and it stuck to the floor instantly an wouldn't get any pressure back. Fluid is also black again. It was complelty clear Saturday before driving maybe 30 miles
Car was drive able the other day. It stuck to the floor a few times. Today I tried driving and it stuck to the floor instantly an wouldn't get any pressure back. Fluid is also black again. It was complelty clear Saturday before driving maybe 30 miles
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 210
From: Huntersville, NC
clutch
Since you have a remote bleeder, how about getting an an3 to pipe thread fitting and putting a pressure gage on the bleeder line. The clutch pressure should be well above 600 psi ( tried this once with a 600 psi gage and pegged it). Gages are pretty cheap and that would tell you if the master is shot. If you are getting pressure bypass on the master seals, then the master is gone. If you are getting pressure on the bleed line and the slave is not moving, then the slave is gone.
If the quick disconnect was not properly connected and you exercised the pedal, I would guess you dead-headed the master. I don't know if there is a pressure bypass on it, but the clutch pressure can go up really fast since it is a positive-displacement system.
You can see the end of the master if you pull the left wheel well inner cover at the back of the wheel well. There are 7 or 8 small screws with 7 mm heads. There are 3 on the bottom screws that are hard to see, so if you take this cover off patiently.
If the quick disconnect was not properly connected and you exercised the pedal, I would guess you dead-headed the master. I don't know if there is a pressure bypass on it, but the clutch pressure can go up really fast since it is a positive-displacement system.
You can see the end of the master if you pull the left wheel well inner cover at the back of the wheel well. There are 7 or 8 small screws with 7 mm heads. There are 3 on the bottom screws that are hard to see, so if you take this cover off patiently.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
Since you have a remote bleeder, how about getting an an3 to pipe thread fitting and putting a pressure gage on the bleeder line. The clutch pressure should be well above 600 psi ( tried this once with a 600 psi gage and pegged it). Gages are pretty cheap and that would tell you if the master is shot. If you are getting pressure bypass on the master seals, then the master is gone. If you are getting pressure on the bleed line and the slave is not moving, then the slave is gone.
If the quick disconnect was not properly connected and you exercised the pedal, I would guess you dead-headed the master. I don't know if there is a pressure bypass on it, but the clutch pressure can go up really fast since it is a positive-displacement system.
You can see the end of the master if you pull the left wheel well inner cover at the back of the wheel well. There are 7 or 8 small screws with 7 mm heads. There are 3 on the bottom screws that are hard to see, so if you take this cover off patiently.
If the quick disconnect was not properly connected and you exercised the pedal, I would guess you dead-headed the master. I don't know if there is a pressure bypass on it, but the clutch pressure can go up really fast since it is a positive-displacement system.
You can see the end of the master if you pull the left wheel well inner cover at the back of the wheel well. There are 7 or 8 small screws with 7 mm heads. There are 3 on the bottom screws that are hard to see, so if you take this cover off patiently.
i never considered that i might have messed up the master by pushing the pedal down when the QC came apart. i was so focused on the fact that it had pressure, didnt even consider that i could have wrecked the seals doing that.
i'm going to take the wheel well off and see if there is any leakage on backside.
someone at monster told me they dont vac bleed, they pressure bleed, so i'm going to try that too.
