harmonic balancer bolt replacement....
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
He told you the truth, you just don't want to hear it. Swapping a damper on these cars, due to having to remove the rack, etc, tells me ONE important thing..... do it right and do it ONCE!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
I read the dozens of threads on this before doing mine. Decided to do it once and be done. Installed the ATI balancer and pinned it using their kit also. Very pricey but doing it right once is cheaper in the long run to me. Used a torque wrench that went to 250 lbs. I didn't and still don't understand using never-seize on the bolt instead of loctite but I did. Not sure exactly what I torqued it to but I can tell you that after I got the click at 240 I gave it an extra "UUUUMMMPPHHH" on the cheater bar. To be honest I would say it's around 260-270 lbs. I felt it closing the gap on the engine cradle on the passengers side. That was about 2500 miles ago and still spinning true with no problems.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
I read the dozens of threads on this before doing mine. Decided to do it once and be done. Installed the ATI balancer and pinned it using their kit also. Very pricey but doing it right once is cheaper in the long run to me. Used a torque wrench that went to 250 lbs. I didn't and still don't understand using never-seize on the bolt instead of loctite but I did. Not sure exactly what I torqued it to but I can tell you that after I got the click at 240 I gave it an extra "UUUUMMMPPHHH" on the cheater bar. To be honest I would say it's around 260-270 lbs. I felt it closing the gap on the engine cradle on the passengers side. That was about 2500 miles ago and still spinning true with no problems.
Good luck.
Good luck.
IIRC, the directions that ATI printed out said "use a light coating of never seize on the crank snout". This is so the hub slides on the crank easier. You then use red Loctite on the bolt......
If you used never seize on the threads of the bolt, torqued it to 240 lb/ft, then gave it a little more, you're PROBABLY torqued to 280-290 lb/ft, as never seize reduces friction on the threads, therefore reduces the required torque to achieve the same clamping force.
Last edited by leadfoot4; Apr 18, 2013 at 05:49 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Likes: 8
From: South Bend IN
It's a fact. That's why I posted the link to my same problem along with the information on the tool to keep the crank from moving. 200 Ft/lbs plus as much as I could hog on it won't cut it. The 1" bar on this tool was bowing while we held the crank and pulled on the torque wrench to get it to click off at 240.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
IIRC, the directions that ATI printed out said "use a light coating of never seize on the crank snout". This is so the hub slides on the crank easier. You then use red Loctite on the bolt......
If you used never seize on the threads of the bolt, torqued it to 240 lb/ft, then gave it a little more, you're PROBABLY torqued to 280-290 lb/ft, as never seize reduces friction on the threads, therefore reduces the required torque to achieve the same clamping force.
If you used never seize on the threads of the bolt, torqued it to 240 lb/ft, then gave it a little more, you're PROBABLY torqued to 280-290 lb/ft, as never seize reduces friction on the threads, therefore reduces the required torque to achieve the same clamping force.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 585
Likes: 57
From: Toronto
can someone just post a quick remove the rack proceedure here for me my bolt is loose too and the rack wont move up enough for me to get a socket on and retighten the loose bolt and i am trying not to lower the cradle as i just had the alignment done but the rack will not slide it gets stuck between the frame
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
can someone just post a quick remove the rack proceedure here for me my bolt is loose too and the rack wont move up enough for me to get a socket on and retighten the loose bolt and i am trying not to lower the cradle as i just had the alignment done but the rack will not slide it gets stuck between the frame
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Likes: 8
From: South Bend IN
can someone just post a quick remove the rack proceedure here for me my bolt is loose too and the rack wont move up enough for me to get a socket on and retighten the loose bolt and i am trying not to lower the cradle as i just had the alignment done but the rack will not slide it gets stuck between the frame
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
If you plan on sliding the rack out, you will have to drop the cradle and I really don't see the rack going out the passengers side. I also don't think you can get to the bolt properly with the rack in the car. Lowering the cradle
literally adds about 20 minutes to the job both lowering and raising. Don't see any reason why not to.
literally adds about 20 minutes to the job both lowering and raising. Don't see any reason why not to.
Last edited by reath1; Apr 20, 2013 at 11:26 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
I am not an alignment guy but I seriously don't see how it could effect the alignment at all. You are removing the tie rod. Not turning any threads on it and the cradle comes straight down and straight up. No adjustment there at all so it really can't throw anything out of whack.
Oh, and if you paid $200 for an alignment...they ran that one up you hard and dry. You should be walking funny. Should have been no more than $100. I think I pay $89.
Oh, and if you paid $200 for an alignment...they ran that one up you hard and dry. You should be walking funny. Should have been no more than $100. I think I pay $89.
Last edited by reath1; Apr 20, 2013 at 04:37 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
$200 was expensive. I paid $100 at a GM dealership - Bennett in Cambridge and they have the rack setup so that a lowered Vette can drive right on and they will set it up right or even to your specs.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
Correct. I forgot about the dowels. Has to go straight back up there. But again, you got hammered on that alignment. I would hope that would have come with a lifetime warranty or something.
~