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Recently had a new Steering Wheel Position Sensor installed. (they pulled the steering column) Now my lights won't go up or down. Looking for ideas... (I know I can go back to them. If its easy, I'd rather they not touch my car again)
Background Info:
The lights themselves still come on, highs, low, fogs, everything;
I have Sun Gun HIDs installed;
I've tried inserting a resistor in the HID circuitry, moving it individually before each ballast and each low beam... no dice.
Could this be something in the steering column? What am I missing
how are your HIDs connected to the stock wiring?
have you tried manually opening the headlights to make sure they aren't jammed?
try opening them half way and turn the lights on, do they move at all in either direction?
HIDs are fed into the stock low beam wiring. Uses the signal from the lows to engage the ballasts etc...
I can manually open the lights just fine, thats what I've been doing. No jams at all, but kinda a PITA.
Just did the halfway trick. No movement whatsoever. I tried a few times and even tried raising/lowering them with the high beams (halogens) on just to increase the load a bit.
i would look at anything that had to get moved for sensor replacement. there is probably a loose or not connected plug somewhere. also check the fuses. there may be a separate one for the motor that raises the lights.
I checked fuses 3 and 4 under the hood. Those are the ones for the headlight motors themselves. They are good to go.
I have the panels off right now under the wheel. So far everything appears intact and properly connected, but there are a lot of wires to check down there. Also, looking on the other side of the firewall is proving difficult.
the headlight doors are triggered to open by the same circuit which powers the low beams if I remember correctly, the same wire that powers the stock low beams also is the signal to the headlight door control module to open the doors. if your HIDs are connected to that circuit and they are working that narrows down the possible problems.
you said the fuses for the headlight doors are good, that's a good start.
you may need to look at the control module itself, it is located under the passenger's side light, it has 2 electrical connectors on it. you may need to turn the headlights on and test that pin to make sure you see 12V where you should. if you do, then its possible the module is bad. its not extremely common, but not unheard of either.
I happen to have the manual here (for a 99, I don't think other years are different)
on connector C1, the 5 way connector
the white wire is headlights on, should be 12V when the headlights are in the on position, this commands the doors to open
the dark green wire is headlights off, this should be 12V when the headlight switch is in the full off position.
the 2 orange wires are the fused B+ (from the fuses you checked) make sure you have constant 12V there
and the black wire is ground make sure this is a good ground.
if all that checks out, all the fuses and connectors are good, and the doors still don't open, you might be in the market for a new module.
the other connector on that module (the 4 pin one) is the door motor feed wires, light green and dark green for the left side and dark blue and light blue for the right side.
Great info
I got some diagrams from markcz and with that info I'll attack that front tomorrow. (thanks for spelling it out too).
Side note: I finished looking under the steering column for loose connections etc... found nothing suspicious. I was really hoping this was related to the recent work, but I'm slowly coming to the realization it may not be. They did lift once after leaving the shop but they failed to go down after the 10 mile, 45 min drive (LA traffic for ya). Had the problem since.
I had my SWPS fixed yesterday and when i got the car back my buckets were up, no they was working fine when i brought it in, they checked and found fuse , i believe was 14 in the passengers footwell was blown, they replaced and everything is fine
Never, tried a ton of different things and then switched to Radioflyer SLC V3s. Loved the SunGuns, just got tired of dealing with the buckets, what a PITA...
...switched headlight control module, checked fuses, removed and cleaned/refurbished headlight stalk, cleaned grounds and harnesses, ensured motors were contacting stops properly, then I threw in the towell and went for the SLCs. They work just as well as far as output which was the ultimate goal.