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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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Default C1232 and C1233

Hey Folks,

Need some help. Car was sitting for a couple of months on a battery Tender. Now getting C1232 and C1233. I replaced both left and right wheel sensor harness, still getting the codes.

Car is a 99 Coupe Z51 but w/o active handling.

short of a "new" ECBM anything else I can check or should I take it to the dealer?

Also if I need a "new" ECBM where can I find one? I have the part number 16257049.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Guy's any help?
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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Did you do a reset of the codes? Are they H or C?
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 02:06 PM
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ttt

Last edited by nitemaher; Apr 26, 2013 at 02:09 PM. Reason: repost
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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To the OP,

The wheel speed sensors themselves almost NEVER go bad. typical problems are with the wires getting broken or more often the connectors developing corrosion. Jack the front of the car and remove the wheels. Examine the wiring to make certain nothing has been cut. Separate the connector halves and examine and clean the pins as needed. It may be necessary to tweak the pins slightly to insure contact when the two halves are connected.

Clear the codes and then drive the car. Before you shut off the key, pull your codes again.


Also as an FYI, ABS Fixer can only repair the EBCM if you are showing code C1214. His web site specifically states that. Your codes don't qualify for his repairs.

Additionally he can only repair 2001 - 2004 EBCM's. He does not accept 1997 - 2000 EBCM's. Again refer to his website for more info.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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First,, make real sure your battery is fully charged.
Have you done any maintenance or upgrades near the brake lines?
Clear the codes and then drive it to make sure you really have a problem.
As an above poster said, make sure your wiring and grounds are in good shape. If you have stainless steel brake lines, make sure the crush washers are copper, aluminum crush washers are known problem creators. when using stainless bake lines.
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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let me try and answer,

No maint/work was done near wheels, I clear the codes and they come back. Car is/was on battery tender and show full charge.

I have already replaced both left and right speed sensor wiring harnesses, no change.


No other codes show on DIC other than those two.



Thanks guys, any thing else? or should I just get the lube and visit Chevy...
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 11:11 AM
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So what was the solution to this?
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 11:39 AM
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Batteries can start the car and appear good, but still give electronics problems. Swap the battery and see if things change. If that doesn't help, its likely EBCM.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Phanni
Batteries can start the car and appear good, but still give electronics problems. Swap the battery and see if things change. If that doesn't help, its likely EBCM.
Brand new battery. I'm guessing it's probably a ground or pinched wire somewhere.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 10:48 PM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Dec 17, 2018 | 10:17 AM
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Since you have replaced the harness to the wheels and a new battery you should check the wheel bearings. Jack up the front wheel--one side at a time is easiest-- and hold the wheel at 6 and 12, try to move it in and out, if it seems to slip a little when you do this it could be a bad bearing. Also any competent garage can perform this check, personally I would have them allow me to perform the test also if they find it bad. No sense replacing a good bearing. If it is a wheel bearing, make sure you have them use a good manufacturer like Timken or equivalent and some cheap China clone.
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Old Dec 17, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordy M
Since you have replaced the harness to the wheels and a new battery you should check the wheel bearings. Jack up the front wheel--one side at a time is easiest-- and hold the wheel at 6 and 12, try to move it in and out, if it seems to slip a little when you do this it could be a bad bearing. Also any competent garage can perform this check, personally I would have them allow me to perform the test also if they find it bad. No sense replacing a good bearing. If it is a wheel bearing, make sure you have them use a good manufacturer like Timken or equivalent and some cheap China clone.
I revived an old thread. Figured out my issue. Wires are cut or chewed off the harness going up the backside of the motor. So if anyone has a pic of where that harness leads I would be eternally grateful. At this point I'm looking at pulling the intake to see behind the motor and hope I can find the other end of the harness.

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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 05:29 AM
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Just replaced by EBCM through BBA Reman, a company recommended by my mechanic for my 2001. I had a C1234 code, right front wheel sensor open/shorted. You can also try ABS Fixer. Expensive, over $800. I think the price is based on supply/demand. I dicked around with my issue for months testing the speed sensor, hub, wiring, and grounds. BBA Reman warranties the part as long as you own the car. There seems to be an entire cottage industry for repairs on ABS EBCM. My mechanic has a GM scanner that identified the issue immediately. If I had to do it over again I would have replaced mine sooner. I tried to go the cheap route but probably spent more money if you consider the tools I bought and time spent.
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