need a couple opinions..Replaced the battery in April, (5yr GM)..
The car has 12k, no engine light etc.
I Believe (I Think) I've driven all the different "inspection" driving cycles mentioned on this forum, ..now up to 12,800 miles , It just failed again this morning, NY. chev dealer.
The car has been babied since new. no issues. any similar inspection issues out there? thanks !

 

What failed, emissions?

 

Ya, try giving us something to work with. Tell us what type of test and how/why it failed.

 

This is what failed
catalyst(g) NMHC Catalyst (D)
not ready
02 Sensor Heater (G) PM filter(D)
not ready

..Sorry I didn't reply sooner, the DIC codes are, seat control module & ldcm/rdcm & 1 radio code.

 

It's hard to say what's going on, because if a cat was failing it would set a code 99% of the time as a failing cat either blows all of the catalyst out and the rear o2 will set a code or the catalyst melts and blocks air flow and turns the pipe a really cool glowing orange I'm glad I don't live in a communistic emissions state lol

 

General Motors Computer Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation

 

This car is stock manifolds and exhaust?

I'd think you might have a poor O2 sensor. You really need to get a scanner on it and see what the O2 sensors are showing.

 

yes, car is stock, may have to take your advice on the scanner if no better results soon.
thanks !

 

I'm not sure if this will help but a similar thing happened to me when going to inspect my LS2 05 GTO. Had done some work on it and since it was inspection time went down a couple days later.

It failed and the two codes that came up were saying not ready. The guy who I knew told me I hadn't driven it enough miles to clear codes. Came back 2 weeks later and codes were gone.

I don't know if a battery change or anything else you may have done will do the same thing but it might be a good idea to ask someone in the know. JMO

 

Do you ever RESET codes before you go in for the test? A reset of ANY CODES, will reset the IM monitors tests and YOU WILL FAIL. Removing the battery or low starting voltage will do the same.

Cheap Actron scanners will show you the I/M monitor status, I always check my cars before the test so there are no "surprises".

 

I went through the same issue(s) when purchasing my 02 Z06 last year. I went down to test drive the car, and was able to, but the car couldn't be NC inspected until all of the required GM testing was finished. My dad and I waited around for 4-5 hours, passing the time, waiting for them to be finished. All because they put a new battery in at the time they aquired the car, which was not two days before I called about it and went to buy it.

P.S. This is great info. I wish I had this when I purchased mine. That way I could have sent it to their "techs" so it wouldn't take hours and hours. Stealerships, man. Always something.