Bad valve stem seal after cam install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Bad valve stem seal after cam install
Installed a cam back in Jan. Started to notice an oil consumption issue around March or April. I assume one of my stem seals slid up the stem, although it seems a little odd it didn't happen immediately.
None the less, will it be pretty obvious which is the culprit when I pull the valve covers, or am I going to have to remove rocker arms/valve springs? I want to know before pulling them, because it's extremely hot here, and I like to minimize the days I work on things outside. I've got the dual springs, if it makes a difference.
None the less, will it be pretty obvious which is the culprit when I pull the valve covers, or am I going to have to remove rocker arms/valve springs? I want to know before pulling them, because it's extremely hot here, and I like to minimize the days I work on things outside. I've got the dual springs, if it makes a difference.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 718
From: Black Forest CO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Never assume,
the entire country is hot as heck right now, I hear ya on that one bud
I've got the Kent Moore for installing valve seals, you'll see most use a 11mm 12pt socket, and this will fine 'most' of the time.
I can post up the info/pic, Comp also makes the tool, either way it's cheap, about 30 bucks
the entire country is hot as heck right now, I hear ya on that one bud
I've got the Kent Moore for installing valve seals, you'll see most use a 11mm 12pt socket, and this will fine 'most' of the time.
I can post up the info/pic, Comp also makes the tool, either way it's cheap, about 30 bucks
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 135
From: Maryland
I agree with Steve! I beat up the seals when using a socket. The plastic Kent Moore tool worked great and was only something like $5 on flebay.
Keeping my fingers crossed but so far all my seals (TSP blue seals) are still in place.
Keeping my fingers crossed but so far all my seals (TSP blue seals) are still in place.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Never assume,
the entire country is hot as heck right now, I hear ya on that one bud
I've got the Kent Moore for installing valve seals, you'll see most use a 11mm 12pt socket, and this will fine 'most' of the time.
I can post up the info/pic, Comp also makes the tool, either way it's cheap, about 30 bucks
the entire country is hot as heck right now, I hear ya on that one bud
I've got the Kent Moore for installing valve seals, you'll see most use a 11mm 12pt socket, and this will fine 'most' of the time.
I can post up the info/pic, Comp also makes the tool, either way it's cheap, about 30 bucks
Last edited by onspeed; Jul 10, 2013 at 03:11 AM.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Pulled the valve covers, can't see anything without removing the springs. Maybe with the single springs you can see through the coils, but the dual springs you really can't see much. So I pulled the plugs as suggested and here's what I found.
Driver side plugs. 1,3,5,7 - looks like 5 is the culprit. the ceramic on 1 is a little darkened as well.
Passneger side. 8,6,4,2 - 2 looks a little lean, 4 also looks not quite perfect, maybe also leaking oil?
There's some oil on the threads of most of the plugs. I'm guessing that's just some of the grease I applied when I installed that eventually melted with the heat.
Should I replace just the seals on 5 or on all the ones that look a little dark?
Driver side plugs. 1,3,5,7 - looks like 5 is the culprit. the ceramic on 1 is a little darkened as well.
Passneger side. 8,6,4,2 - 2 looks a little lean, 4 also looks not quite perfect, maybe also leaking oil?
There's some oil on the threads of most of the plugs. I'm guessing that's just some of the grease I applied when I installed that eventually melted with the heat.
Should I replace just the seals on 5 or on all the ones that look a little dark?
Last edited by onspeed; Jul 15, 2013 at 07:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
That's what I was thinking. I went ahead and ordered just a couple for #5. If I'm still burning a little oil, I'll hold off till it's cooler since the others don't look too bad.
Just need to figure out what's going on with #2. Only thing that can cause a lean condition on 1 cylinder is a bad injector? Maybe I'll swap injector 2 with 4 and see what happens over time.
Just need to figure out what's going on with #2. Only thing that can cause a lean condition on 1 cylinder is a bad injector? Maybe I'll swap injector 2 with 4 and see what happens over time.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Pulled the springs today on #5. Both seals had slid up from the valve guide. They didn't look torn up or anything to me. Tiny spring at the top was still there and in tact. Went ahead and installed new ones anyways since I had them.
Looks like it's just friction that holds it onto the guide normally? When I'm due for new valve springs I think I'll go with the singles so I can use the GM design seal/seats. The duals were recommended but it seems like plenty of guys run singles without issue.
Also, it's a PITA to rotate the crank with everything assembled. I had the steering shaft out of the way when I originally did the springs. I couldn't find a 24mm offset wrench at any of the stores near by so I made my own by heating up a regular 24mm wrench and bending it.
Looks like it's just friction that holds it onto the guide normally? When I'm due for new valve springs I think I'll go with the singles so I can use the GM design seal/seats. The duals were recommended but it seems like plenty of guys run singles without issue.
Also, it's a PITA to rotate the crank with everything assembled. I had the steering shaft out of the way when I originally did the springs. I couldn't find a 24mm offset wrench at any of the stores near by so I made my own by heating up a regular 24mm wrench and bending it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Pulled the springs today on #5. Both seals had slid up from the valve guide. They didn't look torn up or anything to me. Tiny spring at the top was still there and in tact. Went ahead and installed new ones anyways since I had them.
Looks like it's just friction that holds it onto the guide normally? When I'm due for new valve springs I think I'll go with the singles so I can use the GM design seal/seats. The duals were recommended but it seems like plenty of guys run singles without issue.
Also, it's a PITA to rotate the crank with everything assembled. I had the steering shaft out of the way when I originally did the springs. I couldn't find a 24mm offset wrench at any of the stores near by so I made my own by heating up a regular 24mm wrench and bending it.
Looks like it's just friction that holds it onto the guide normally? When I'm due for new valve springs I think I'll go with the singles so I can use the GM design seal/seats. The duals were recommended but it seems like plenty of guys run singles without issue.
Also, it's a PITA to rotate the crank with everything assembled. I had the steering shaft out of the way when I originally did the springs. I couldn't find a 24mm offset wrench at any of the stores near by so I made my own by heating up a regular 24mm wrench and bending it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
unfortunate this happened, but great info. thank you. About to do a cam swap and was planning on doing new seals but didn't know about the seal tool. Do you think it was the dual springs that made this happen or seals? I plan on using single behives and new oem stock seals.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
I would like to blame the seals, but they look fine to me. It was probably my installation (12mm socket + hammer), although many people do the same without issue.
The springs aren't bad, but with the single springs you can use the 1-piece style seal/seat and there's no way for those seals to slide up since it's also a spring seat. Lots of people say go with the dual springs because there's a lower possibility you'll drop a valve if one breaks, less spring surge, and handles aggresive ramp rates better. But the EPS/LXL lobe is supposed to be pretty tame and my cam specs in general are relatively mild so I think a single beehive would be fine for me.
The springs aren't bad, but with the single springs you can use the 1-piece style seal/seat and there's no way for those seals to slide up since it's also a spring seat. Lots of people say go with the dual springs because there's a lower possibility you'll drop a valve if one breaks, less spring surge, and handles aggresive ramp rates better. But the EPS/LXL lobe is supposed to be pretty tame and my cam specs in general are relatively mild so I think a single beehive would be fine for me.