2004 Vette not starting
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
2004 Vette not starting
Hello,
I need some help in figuring out what is wrong. My car wont start when I crank it. Lights come on then go out when cranked. I had the battery checked, its fine. Can anyone give me insight as to what it could be, please.
Thanks
I need some help in figuring out what is wrong. My car wont start when I crank it. Lights come on then go out when cranked. I had the battery checked, its fine. Can anyone give me insight as to what it could be, please.
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
How did you have the battery checked? Was it checked under a load? I would try and jump it off from another car and see if your lights still go off when you crank it or maybe it'll start. If that's not it its usually fuel or ignition related. You can check your fuel pressure at the fuel rails. Search it on google you'll usually get some results that referance you back to Corvette forum. The search engine on the forum doesn't usually work so well. I used to check for igntion buy pulling a plug and letting it hang from the plug wire while touching the exhaust manifold, then crank the car and look for a spark at the plug. There are tons of other things it could be as well, but you have to start eliminating the possibilities.
I should look a little closer at your post next time,,, are you saying the engine does not turn over at all,, that as soon as you turn the key you lose all power and nothing happens??
I should look a little closer at your post next time,,, are you saying the engine does not turn over at all,, that as soon as you turn the key you lose all power and nothing happens??
Last edited by JetMechZ16; Jul 9, 2013 at 02:15 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,150
Likes: 4,165
From: Kannapolis NC
Can't say about your car, but that is a classic symptom of bad battery cable connections. Double check to be sure that the rubber on your battery connection isn't trapped between the battery and the cable, and that the ends are clean and tight. Also check the red cable going from the battery to the starter solenoid, it's very common for that connection to loosen or corrode. It also "carbonizes" the solenoid insulation on that post, more so with headers.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
The battery is fine, had it checked at local sears auto center. As soon as the key is put into the ignition and cranked, all lights go off and nothing happens. I checked the starter and that is fine also. I read on some forum (cant remember) that it could be security locks?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 23,480
Likes: 9
From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
The battery is fine, had it checked at local sears auto center. As soon as the key is put into the ignition and cranked, all lights go off and nothing happens. I checked the starter and that is fine also. I read on some forum (cant remember) that it could be security locks?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 552
Likes: 4
From: Mukilteo WA
Sounds like you have the correct number of years/cycles for your ignition switch to have carboned over.
Had the problem last year. When you take the original apart using Bill Curlees how to you'll see the reason.
Had the problem last year. When you take the original apart using Bill Curlees how to you'll see the reason.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 23,480
Likes: 9
From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
If it all goes dark with no power, there is a good chance it is a connection issue. Make sure the the positive and negative terminals are snug. Follow the ground wire to its ground and make sure it is tight and clean.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
I have had my ignition switch replaced twice in three years because of a variety of symptoms:
-Crank, no start; then crank, start
-All instrument cluster lights flash off and on, crank and start and die
-Service traction control on DIC
-Reduced engine power on DIC, crank, start, no engine power above idle, Then crank, start, Service Engine Soon on DIC, but normal power
Replacing the ignition switch resolved the above in each case.
One more thing, I have discovered that it is easy to undertighten the battery side terminal connections. An undertightened battery side terminal, when turning the key to crank and holding the key in crank, can result in an attempt to crank, all lights go off, then another attempt to crank, all lights go off, several times in a row.
The side battery terminals should be tightened to 120- 180 inch pounds or 10 to 15 foot pounds, more than I had thought.
-Crank, no start; then crank, start
-All instrument cluster lights flash off and on, crank and start and die
-Service traction control on DIC
-Reduced engine power on DIC, crank, start, no engine power above idle, Then crank, start, Service Engine Soon on DIC, but normal power
Replacing the ignition switch resolved the above in each case.
One more thing, I have discovered that it is easy to undertighten the battery side terminal connections. An undertightened battery side terminal, when turning the key to crank and holding the key in crank, can result in an attempt to crank, all lights go off, then another attempt to crank, all lights go off, several times in a row.
The side battery terminals should be tightened to 120- 180 inch pounds or 10 to 15 foot pounds, more than I had thought.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
Team Owner
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 23,480
Likes: 9
From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
If you can get the car up on jack stands, it is fairly easy to check the cable at the transmission lever. If the cable connection at the transmission lever is corrupted there is a kit with instructions available from Automatic Transmission Factory of Florida, (954)-916-1155; part no. SRK-114; sorry I don't have their web address even though that is how I got my part of the same no., about $32 delivered priority to CA.
If the cable connection at the transmission is OK but the shift lever in the cockpit still does not move the lever at the transmission correctly, you probably need a new cable. There are several posts available in the archives on how to change the cable.
If the above is not the problem, next step is to check fluid level in accordance with the FSM. Keep us posted.
If the cable connection at the transmission is OK but the shift lever in the cockpit still does not move the lever at the transmission correctly, you probably need a new cable. There are several posts available in the archives on how to change the cable.
If the above is not the problem, next step is to check fluid level in accordance with the FSM. Keep us posted.