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Installed some new OBX long tubes on my 01Z, after the install I'm getting codes P0134 and P0154, i checked for leaks and don't see any (there was one after the install but its gone now and the odes have been cleared and since come back) do I need some special O2 sensor
I dont believe they are reversed, but can double check again, there isn't a chatted x pipe but the header do have bungs for rear O2 sensors which have been blocked off to prevent leaks and the rear O2s have been programmed out
You need to have front o2 sensors installed, otherwise your car will not run properly. Modern cars use the front o2 sensors to determine proper A/F ratio.
You were supposed to extend the front o2 sensors to where you blocked off the bung on the header and just leave out the rear o2 sensors.
You're getting insufficient activity codes from the front sensors because they're running too cold now. The stock placement of the front sensors on the exhaust manifold has them much closer to the exhaust ports. When you move them downstream to the collector, they don't get hot enough.
The solution is to run the rear type of 02 sensor in the front bungs because the rears have a stronger internal heater. This will require a wiring conversion harness.
P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1-A
P0154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1-A
You're getting insufficient activity codes from the front sensors because they're running too cold now. The stock placement of the front sensors on the exhaust manifold has them much closer to the exhaust ports. When you move them downstream to the collector, they don't get hot enough.
The solution is to run the rear type of 02 sensor in the front bungs because the rears have a stronger internal heater. This will require a wiring conversion harness.
P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1-A
P0154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1-A
For what its worth, both my car and a friend I did an install for run front o2 sensors with extensions and have no problems. Several kits to my knowledge provide front extensions rather than conversion harnesses for the rear and I haven't heard of widespread problems.
For him to have them both show dead when several cars including my own have no problems with the fronts extended makes me think they aren't plugged in or were soldered incorrectly instead of extended with a harness rather than not heating up properly.
For what its worth, both my car and a friend I did an install for run front o2 sensors with extensions and have no problems. Several kits to my knowledge provide front extensions rather than conversion harnesses for the rear and I haven't heard of widespread problems.
I've no doubt there are some systems that will work that way, but it's hit or miss and will depend on the specific design of the headers. LG specifically recommends using the rears in the front position for example.
For him to have them both show dead when several cars including my own have no problems with the fronts extended makes me think they aren't plugged in or were soldered incorrectly instead of extended with a harness rather than not heating up properly.
That's the thing though. They aren't showing dead. They're showing insufficient activity (slow switching) which can be symptomatic of them running too cold. And keep in mind this happened to both at the same time following a header install.
That's the thing though. They aren't showing dead. They're showing insufficient activity (slow switching) which can be symptomatic of them running too cold. And keep in mind this happened to both at the same time following a header install.
I'm not sure where you pulled your line definition from, or if there are even two codes that distinguish between no/low voltage for front o2s within the general OBD-II trouble codes themselves, but that site is what I usually go off of.
I'm not sure where you pulled your line definition from, or if there are even two codes that distinguish between no/low voltage for front o2s within the general OBD-II trouble codes themselves, but that site is what I usually go off of.
From the service manual
Though interestingly enough, I see slow response codes as well, so maybe GM is redefining "insufficient". But I still maintain that running them cold could cause this code to get thrown.
first sentence of the diagnostic procedure from your link...
"First start the engine and bring it up to operating temperature and ensure the engine reaches closed loop."
Though interestingly enough, I see slow response codes as well, so maybe GM is redefining "insufficient". But I still maintain that running them cold could cause this code to get thrown.
first sentence of the diagnostic procedure from your link...
"First start the engine and bring it up to operating temperature and ensure the engine reaches closed loop."
I don't disagree.
Best to wait for OP. If he has them plugged in and installed correctly, chances are they both didn't coincidentally "go bad" at the same time and he should use the rear sensors.
Cheaper that way too - just have to buy the adaptor harnesses for $20 each rather than forking out $60 each on new sensors.
Best to wait for OP. If he has them plugged in and installed correctly, chances are they both didn't coincidentally "go bad" at the same time and he should use the rear sensors.
Cheaper that way too - just have to buy the adaptor harnesses for $20 each rather than forking out $60 each on new sensors.
He could just bubba together a temporary adapter harness and use one his existing rears. Then if the code goes away for that side, he'll know that's the problem.
Wouldn't you think it would be wise to have his tuner just look at the activity? It's easy with the tuning software. You get a graphical representation of the switching.
To me, insifficient activity isn't the same as no activity. Hard to say how the GM software defines it.
I would also wonder if the car is ever going closed loop? Also easy to see with the software. I would guess that at other than idle, it is, but I don't have the car in front of me to look see.
As far as the rears having stronger heaters, I measured heater current for both front and rear sensors from my car and they draw identical current at 12v supply, I believe the heaters are the same.
Would be nice to see a photo of the OBX headers and see just how long they are. I run XS Power headers (same length as AR) with the new design O2 sensors and have no issues.
By the way, the later style O2 sensors are planar style (they heat easier) as opposed to the thimble style of the earlier ones. Planar and Thimble refer to the ceramic substrate material inside the sensor.
As far as the rears having stronger heaters, I measured heater current for both front and rear sensors from my car and they draw identical current at 12v supply, I believe the heaters are the same.
The early cars have a weak heater in their front sensors. We have found best results to use the rear sensors in the front location by using the supplied adapter harness. Rear sensors should be removed inside the computer or a new set of rear sensors should be used in the rear location.
Those are very common codes when LT Headers are installed. Just set them to no error reported & uncheck the ses box. Also you will likely also get codes P0133, P0153, P1133, P1153, P1134 and P1154. Just delete them as well.