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Headlights won't go up !!!

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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Default Headlights won't go up !!!

have an issue , i have to turn the headlight switch off and on a few times, until eventually the headlights go up!!!! what should I be looking for? could it be the switch assembly . please advise
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 11:51 PM
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I just fixed this on mine yesterday... in my case it was the rubber stops on the motors that let the motor know when the lights are fully closed... one of those stops was smashed and the other was missing so my headlights were closing too far and getting stuck... I cut a small piece of fuel hose and slipped it over the tab on each motor and ziptied them tight and my problem is solved... if not that it could also be your headlight gears... if you decide to replace them I highly suggest rodney dickman's gears, they come in a kit and include a nice brace to keep the motors from separating after you epoxy them... do a search for headlight gears and you should find a write up of how to do this if the gears are your problem
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
I just fixed this on mine yesterday... in my case it was the rubber stops on the motors that let the motor know when the lights are fully closed... one of those stops was smashed and the other was missing so my headlights were closing too far and getting stuck... I cut a small piece of fuel hose and slipped it over the tab on each motor and ziptied them tight and my problem is solved... if not that it could also be your headlight gears... if you decide to replace them I highly suggest rodney dickman's gears, they come in a kit and include a nice brace to keep the motors from separating after you epoxy them... do a search for headlight gears and you should find a write up of how to do this if the gears are your problem
Could also be your headlight switch. Have a friend listen and look at the lights when you hit the switch. Do they hear the motor? Do the lights cut on when you hit the switch - and do they just not come up?

If lights do not come on and no motor noise - it could be your switch contacts.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Turn on your twilight option and see if they work. If they work this way the switch is highly suspect.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Vette04GTO
Could also be your headlight switch. Have a friend listen and look at the lights when you hit the switch. Do they hear the motor? Do the lights cut on when you hit the switch - and do they just not come up?

If lights do not come on and no motor noise - it could be your switch contacts.
when you say the contacts? is it the stop on the headlight gear or the contacts on the switch assembly on the column? I turn the switch and I don't hear the motor and the lights don't come on either.... I'm going to check the stops to see if they are missing , but any advice on taking apart the switch assembly, or am I better off letting a professional replace the switch?
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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if your headlights don't even turn on then the stops are not your problem, more than likely the switch is bad... in my case the headlights worked they just wouldn't pop up because they were stuck due to the missing/smashed stops
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Yea... It sounds like the contacts in the light switch on your column are bad.

I have not repaired or replaced one on these vette's yet, but it should not be that big of a project. There are many people on this forum that could probably help you with detailed steps - or just google it and there are probably many articles on replacing it.

If you have a multimeter or test light - get a hold of the lighting system schematics and test voltage coming after the switch. If you get it sometimes, and not others (or less than 12V) - then problem is pretty much guaranteed to be there.

Wish I could be more help - but hopefully I am leading you down the right road.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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I had the same problem....lights came on but not up. first thing I did was unplug the connector under the hood and spray contact cleaner in there and once it was dry and reconnceted it now works 100% of the time. Quick easy thing to try
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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Looking at the wiring diagram for the headlights I believe I just had a "bright" idea on how to determine if it is the switch with no tools required.

If you turn your brights on. Then flip your switch until it doesnt work, and your bright light icon in your display does not come on - then it will be the switch.

(anyone please correct me if I am wrong but I dont see anything in the wiring that would prevent this indicator from cutting on if the switch is working - even if the headlights dont - except for the ground splice)

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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Vette04GTO
Looking at the wiring diagram for the headlights I believe I just had a "bright" idea on how to determine if it is the switch with no tools required.

If you turn your brights on. Then flip your switch until it doesnt work, and your bright light icon in your display does not come on - then it will be the switch.

(anyone please correct me if I am wrong but I dont see anything in the wiring that would prevent this indicator from cutting on if the switch is working - even if the headlights dont - except for the ground splice)

appreciate everyone's help on this , it turns out its the switch assembly, will have to find sometime to replace it.... lucky for me, I don't drive at night that much.... thanks again...
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 12:59 AM
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Since we're on the subject of headlight repair....does anyone know what turns the headlamp retract motor off, once it's turned on? Is it timed? Or does the computer sense the current rise when the lamps reach their mechanical stops(and then turns the motor off)? I'm waiting for my brass motor drive gear to replace the stripped one, and wondered if the factory nylon gear took the full stall torque of the electric motor and just waited for the voltage to time out? If that's the case, no wonder this gear wears out and strips eventually!
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
I just fixed this on mine yesterday... in my case it was the rubber stops on the motors that let the motor know when the lights are fully closed... one of those stops was smashed and the other was missing so my headlights were closing too far and getting stuck... I cut a small piece of fuel hose and slipped it over the tab on each motor and ziptied them tight and my problem is solved... if not that it could also be your headlight gears... if you decide to replace them I highly suggest rodney dickman's gears, they come in a kit and include a nice brace to keep the motors from separating after you epoxy them... do a search for headlight gears and you should find a write up of how to do this if the gears are your problem
This sounds like the problem I am having with one of my headlights. Where are the rubber stops located. Do i need to remove the motor to get them?

Thanks,
Vince
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Pull Up Now!
Since we're on the subject of headlight repair....does anyone know what turns the headlamp retract motor off, once it's turned on? Is it timed? Or does the computer sense the current rise when the lamps reach their mechanical stops(and then turns the motor off)? I'm waiting for my brass motor drive gear to replace the stripped one, and wondered if the factory nylon gear took the full stall torque of the electric motor and just waited for the voltage to time out? If that's the case, no wonder this gear wears out and strips eventually!
Yeah, its the rise in current that kills the motor. One has to wonder what the engineers were smoking when they developed some of this stuff. There are some serious weak points that nearly every C5 suffers from. Headlights, floppy mirrors, floppy sun visors, dim hvac display, etc...
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CactusCat
Yeah, its the rise in current that kills the motor. One has to wonder what the engineers were smoking when they developed some of this stuff. There are some serious weak points that nearly every C5 suffers from. Headlights, floppy mirrors, floppy sun visors, dim hvac display, etc...
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
I'd bet ya GM omitted the stop switches as a cost saving measure. Every one of those costs a couple of cents and that adds up over a production run. Sadly, that is truly what car engineers are looking into when when designing the final production product.
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vfornito
This sounds like the problem I am having with one of my headlights. Where are the rubber stops located. Do i need to remove the motor to get them?

Thanks,
Vince
if you have the hood up and manually raise the headlights to fully open you can get to them... they are an off white color and you will see 2 on the top of each headlight frame and 1 on the bottom of each motor... I went from the front and used my left hand to get the passenger side on and my right hand to get the driver side on
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by CactusCat
Yeah, its the rise in current that kills the motor. One has to wonder what the engineers were smoking when they developed some of this stuff. There are some serious weak points that nearly every C5 suffers from. Headlights, floppy mirrors, floppy sun visors, dim hvac display, etc...
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
Thanks for confirming it's the stall current that shuts off the headlamp motor. Imagine, each time the lights go on, you are grinding a bit more of the gears away. Uhg, such bad engineering.

I'd like to know more about the dim AC display. I always thought it was just the sun reflection angle making it hard to read.

Another dumb thing is how the fuel pump tubing is routed inside the frame, over the driver read tire. What a nightmare that is, if you've ever replaced the fuel pump inline check valve.

For a while my 2000 was overheating. Then I used a pressure washer on the radiator and that knocked off about 15 degrees. And mind you, just looking at it, you couldn't tell it was obstructed.

Hard to access and tighten the side battery terminals.

The trunk has to be pried open even though it's been popped. On and on, but I love this car!

Mind you, NONE of this compares to the insanity of changing a heater core on a C4!!!!
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:01 PM
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Default My 98 headlight doors also won't pop up immediately...

....the problem started right after I installed HID lights.

My theory is that the HID lamps need so much current to get started that it causes a voltage drop in that circuit which won't activate the motors.

So far my solution has been to turn the switch to the on position which turns on the lamps with the doors down and allow those HID lamps to warm up. Then turn the switch off and back on and the doors always come up then.
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bobguigley
....the problem started right after I installed HID lights.

My theory is that the HID lamps need so much current to get started that it causes a voltage drop in that circuit which won't activate the motors.

So far my solution has been to turn the switch to the on position which turns on the lamps with the doors down and allow those HID lamps to warm up. Then turn the switch off and back on and the doors always come up then.
If that were the case I would put a relay in line - so the draw of the HID was on a separate power feed. (switch powers the relay which connects a dedicated power source to the HIDs)
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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Can anyone lead me through steps of how to problem solve for this? It is driving me insane. Motors are only two years old. Both motors are not working. Occasionally out of the blue for no reason they will come on, but the next day they will not. This is for both sides.

Bulbs work, just do not raise or lower. I turned on brights and flipped switch. The hi beam light still remains on. Disconnected the master wiring and replugged in still nothing. Maybe I will get some electronic spray to clean the contacts.

White bump stops look good.
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Old Feb 13, 2023 | 06:53 PM
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An old thread for sure, but did you ever figure out the source of your problem? I have the same thing happen occasionally. I have yet to go through and inspect/clean some of the connectors, just started searching threads, but wanted to ask if you found the culprit.
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