Headlights won't go up !!!
If lights do not come on and no motor noise - it could be your switch contacts.
If lights do not come on and no motor noise - it could be your switch contacts.
I have not repaired or replaced one on these vette's yet, but it should not be that big of a project. There are many people on this forum that could probably help you with detailed steps - or just google it and there are probably many articles on replacing it.
If you have a multimeter or test light - get a hold of the lighting system schematics and test voltage coming after the switch. If you get it sometimes, and not others (or less than 12V) - then problem is pretty much guaranteed to be there.
Wish I could be more help - but hopefully I am leading you down the right road.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
If you turn your brights on. Then flip your switch until it doesnt work, and your bright light icon in your display does not come on - then it will be the switch.
(anyone please correct me if I am wrong but I dont see anything in the wiring that would prevent this indicator from cutting on if the switch is working - even if the headlights dont - except for the ground splice)
If you turn your brights on. Then flip your switch until it doesnt work, and your bright light icon in your display does not come on - then it will be the switch.
(anyone please correct me if I am wrong but I dont see anything in the wiring that would prevent this indicator from cutting on if the switch is working - even if the headlights dont - except for the ground splice)

Thanks,
Vince
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
I have only owned my C5 for nearly 2 years now and have suffered thru all of these. I've repaired each one and have learned a lot but for the life of me, I wish the GM engineers had put more thought into this stuff. I can maybe understand the bad wave soldering on the HVAC display thing, since that's more of a manufacturing defect, but the headlight issues could have easily been solved with a switch that turns the motor off when it's reached the closed state.
I'd like to know more about the dim AC display. I always thought it was just the sun reflection angle making it hard to read.
Another dumb thing is how the fuel pump tubing is routed inside the frame, over the driver read tire. What a nightmare that is, if you've ever replaced the fuel pump inline check valve.
For a while my 2000 was overheating. Then I used a pressure washer on the radiator and that knocked off about 15 degrees. And mind you, just looking at it, you couldn't tell it was obstructed.
Hard to access and tighten the side battery terminals.
The trunk has to be pried open even though it's been popped. On and on, but I love this car!
Mind you, NONE of this compares to the insanity of changing a heater core on a C4!!!!
My theory is that the HID lamps need so much current to get started that it causes a voltage drop in that circuit which won't activate the motors.
So far my solution has been to turn the switch to the on position which turns on the lamps with the doors down and allow those HID lamps to warm up. Then turn the switch off and back on and the doors always come up then.
My theory is that the HID lamps need so much current to get started that it causes a voltage drop in that circuit which won't activate the motors.
So far my solution has been to turn the switch to the on position which turns on the lamps with the doors down and allow those HID lamps to warm up. Then turn the switch off and back on and the doors always come up then.
Bulbs work, just do not raise or lower. I turned on brights and flipped switch. The hi beam light still remains on. Disconnected the master wiring and replugged in still nothing. Maybe I will get some electronic spray to clean the contacts.
White bump stops look good.













