Water pump replacement
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 473
From: Rockland County NY
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
Water pump replacement
Hi guys,
My water pump started leaking coolant about a week ago, and I'm going to try to replace it tonight. I got a really good how-to writeup off of another forum, and bought a nice set of cable-operated hose clamp pliers to make the job go more smoothly. My question is if any of you have done this job before, and can make me aware of any pitfalls I might encounter along the way? Thanks so much for your help!
~James
My water pump started leaking coolant about a week ago, and I'm going to try to replace it tonight. I got a really good how-to writeup off of another forum, and bought a nice set of cable-operated hose clamp pliers to make the job go more smoothly. My question is if any of you have done this job before, and can make me aware of any pitfalls I might encounter along the way? Thanks so much for your help!
~James
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 241
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Hi guys,
My water pump started leaking coolant about a week ago, and I'm going to try to replace it tonight. I got a really good how-to writeup off of another forum, and bought a nice set of cable-operated hose clamp pliers to make the job go more smoothly. My question is if any of you have done this job before, and can make me aware of any pitfalls I might encounter along the way? Thanks so much for your help!
~James
My water pump started leaking coolant about a week ago, and I'm going to try to replace it tonight. I got a really good how-to writeup off of another forum, and bought a nice set of cable-operated hose clamp pliers to make the job go more smoothly. My question is if any of you have done this job before, and can make me aware of any pitfalls I might encounter along the way? Thanks so much for your help!
~James
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 473
From: Rockland County NY
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 241
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
OK, that eliminates the paper gasket issue used on the '97/'98 year models (only). You have the later, and most current, metal framed-style gaskets.
Not many gotchas really. If you've ever changed a pump before, then you're aware of mosty what's involved. I would however recommend you either clean (and I mean wire brush the threads) the six pump mounting bolts. You will probably notice some level of rust/corrosion on them and light/superficial is not a problem really. If heavy, or suspect, I would replace them with GM bolts, not some "Joe's Hardware Store" bolts. The quality of materials and the plating on the GM bolts in most cases is far superior. If re-using, just clean them and apply a dab of anti-seize to the threads when re-installing. Same applies to new.
A torque wrench is highly recommended for these bolts. Use one. Steel bolts and aluminum block make this a necessity. Make SURE the bolt holes are cleaned out (no remaining coolant/debris inside) before bolting down and NO gasket sealer of ANY kind is needed on the gaskets. Clean and dry is the ticket.
I recommend using distilled water for the anti-freeze mix on refilling. No minerals, calcium, iron, etc and very cheap. I also recommend staying with Dex-Cool or it's direct equivalent.
HTH
Not many gotchas really. If you've ever changed a pump before, then you're aware of mosty what's involved. I would however recommend you either clean (and I mean wire brush the threads) the six pump mounting bolts. You will probably notice some level of rust/corrosion on them and light/superficial is not a problem really. If heavy, or suspect, I would replace them with GM bolts, not some "Joe's Hardware Store" bolts. The quality of materials and the plating on the GM bolts in most cases is far superior. If re-using, just clean them and apply a dab of anti-seize to the threads when re-installing. Same applies to new.
A torque wrench is highly recommended for these bolts. Use one. Steel bolts and aluminum block make this a necessity. Make SURE the bolt holes are cleaned out (no remaining coolant/debris inside) before bolting down and NO gasket sealer of ANY kind is needed on the gaskets. Clean and dry is the ticket.
I recommend using distilled water for the anti-freeze mix on refilling. No minerals, calcium, iron, etc and very cheap. I also recommend staying with Dex-Cool or it's direct equivalent.
HTH
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 473
From: Rockland County NY
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
OK, that eliminates the paper gasket issue used on the '97/'98 year models (only). You have the later, and most current, metal framed-style gaskets.
Not many gotchas really. If you've ever changed a pump before, then you're aware of mosty what's involved. I would however recommend you either clean (and I mean wire brush the threads) the six pump mounting bolts. You will probably notice some level of rust/corrosion on them and light/superficial is not a problem really. If heavy, or suspect, I would replace them with GM bolts, not some "Joe's Hardware Store" bolts. The quality of materials and the plating on the GM bolts in most cases is far superior. If re-using, just clean them and apply a dab of anti-seize to the threads when re-installing. Same applies to new.
A torque wrench is highly recommended for these bolts. Use one. Steel bolts and aluminum block make this a necessity. Make SURE the bolt holes are cleaned out (no remaining coolant/debris inside) before bolting down and NO gasket sealer of ANY kind is needed on the gaskets. Clean and dry is the ticket.
I recommend using distilled water for the anti-freeze mix on refilling. No minerals, calcium, iron, etc and very cheap. I also recommend staying with Dex-Cool or it's direct equivalent.
HTH
Not many gotchas really. If you've ever changed a pump before, then you're aware of mosty what's involved. I would however recommend you either clean (and I mean wire brush the threads) the six pump mounting bolts. You will probably notice some level of rust/corrosion on them and light/superficial is not a problem really. If heavy, or suspect, I would replace them with GM bolts, not some "Joe's Hardware Store" bolts. The quality of materials and the plating on the GM bolts in most cases is far superior. If re-using, just clean them and apply a dab of anti-seize to the threads when re-installing. Same applies to new.
A torque wrench is highly recommended for these bolts. Use one. Steel bolts and aluminum block make this a necessity. Make SURE the bolt holes are cleaned out (no remaining coolant/debris inside) before bolting down and NO gasket sealer of ANY kind is needed on the gaskets. Clean and dry is the ticket.
I recommend using distilled water for the anti-freeze mix on refilling. No minerals, calcium, iron, etc and very cheap. I also recommend staying with Dex-Cool or it's direct equivalent.
HTH
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 241
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The bolt numbers are 12551926 if you need them.
Btw, one other tip. When re-installing the main (six groove) belt, first get it in all the pulleys, etc and while putting pressure on the tensioner, slide the belt over the WP hub pulley last. Makes it easier.
Btw, one other tip. When re-installing the main (six groove) belt, first get it in all the pulleys, etc and while putting pressure on the tensioner, slide the belt over the WP hub pulley last. Makes it easier.
