I am thinking about a cam in my car. I can't swing the $$ for heads right now. Is it worth it to put the cam in now then go with heads later, or just wait for both. If I get a cam now, can I put one in without programming or do I have to get the car reprogramed?

And fianlly, what is a good cam that will get me the best mix between power and everyday drivability? I don't want to scare off the neighbors when I start the car up....... :D

Thanks



[Modified by revo1059, 12:57 PM 6/29/2002]

 

I just installed a cam, headers, Z06 manifold and U/D pulley on my 102K mile '98 MN6... It has a nice lope and idles fine with a .125" hole in the throttle body butterfly. The result was 386 RWHP and 114.24 mph in the quarter and that's with NO TUNING. I'm pretty happy with the result... When I do a set of heads, I expect it will gain another 20 hp or so... The cam I chose is a Comp Cams 224/224, 581/581, LSA 113 using Comp Cams 915 springs... I'd say 'go for it'..
Shirl :cool:

 

That is an excellent question>>>Is it feasible to bolt in a cam without performing any other mods (I mean other than the usual bolt on stuff)???

 

I can give little input here on this subject. If you want a quick boost in HP, then adding a cam w/o heads can be beneficial and noramlly yields 20-30 extra horses. Of course, you will be paying extra for installation since you will have to pay more for labor if they do both mods (cam and heads) separately. It is usually cheaper to have them both done at the same time and they yield more HP that way. But I hear ya on the $$ issue since modding your c5 can really hit you in the pocket book. Good luck! :cheers:

 

I am looking to go this route as well, just to maintain the warranty a little easier since you wikll not be as deep into thte engine.

Are Headers a must to get a Cam? A good set of headers is $1,000 which you can probably get the Cam, Springs, hrdened Push Rods, etc. for the same price and this mod will REALLY Yield some HP and tQ. Seems to me like a good BANG for the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$:D

The Bandit...............


[Modified by 2001 Red Coupe Bandit, 7:20 PM 6/29/2002]

 

i did cam, i love it

#'s in sig.

 

What is the labor and cost usually associated with a cam job...?

 

I just got a quote for cam install of 750.00 with before and after dyno's w/ computer programming. :D

 

Nope, the cam will hurt the warranty as much as heads+cam, and as much as heads by themselves. You have to change the springs when you do a cam anyway. For mild ported heads (with stock sized valves), material is only removed, no extra mechanical parts are changed as compared to cam only. Even if you put larger valves in the heads, large valves aren't any more a warranty issue than cam+springs+pushrods.

The cam is in the 'V', inside the block. The heads are sitting on top of each bank of cylinders. You hardly need to remove anything to swap heads. To swap the cam, you need to (I think) remove the radiator and drop the steering rack. So, a cam swap is more invasive than heads.

 

Ok, so it seems like a cam is not a bad idea. So, who can recommend a quality cam for performance and still retain everyday drivability?

 

MrEracer - You're running the 915 springs with .581" lift? :eek: Were these springs recommended to you for this kind of lift? If you're going to stay with a single spring, you definitely should be running the 918's. The 915's aren't designed to take as much lift as the 918's, and the Comp 224/224 XE-R that you have has very aggressive lobes. I know because I have the same cam on a 112 LSA. :D

If you're trying to keep your warranty intact, I would leave the stock cam in there. Unless it's a VERY small cam, they're going to know. Drivability is a very subjective word. What one considers drivable another considers too radical. Do you want to hear the cam at idle? Do you want to feel it? Are you trying to pass emissions? A cam can net some very nice gains with stock heads. I'm making 361 RWHP with an unlocked converter and 380 RWHP with a locked converter with stock heads. You do have to drop the steering rack on the C5's for a cam swap, so it's definitely more involved. You'll need to swap springs and pushrods, at a minimum, when you swap cams. I'd also recommend a set of titanium retainers if you're going to be turning 6,500+ RPM. You don't HAVE to have headers, or any other mods for that matter, to swap cams. However, you'll show MUCH better results if you've done all of the other bolt-ons first. A larger cam is simply demanding more air and fuel, and it's also disposing of more exhaust gases. The freer-breathing your car is the better your results will be. It's nothing to see a 20 RWHP gain with headers on a stock LS1. If you have a nice cam in there, you could easily see 30 RWHP over the stock manifolds. A quality set of headers will make the cam shine. L.G. Motorsports and FLP both have some of the best headers out there for the C5. If you're looking to stick with your stock tuning and you have an M6, then I wouldn't go any bigger than 224 degrees of duration @ .050". You can raise your idle via the TB hole, but you'll more than likely trip the SES light on with misfires. The PCM sees the lopey idle as misfires; that's normal with a cam swap.

If you want a cam that's very docile and hardly noticable at idle but makes some nice power, then I think the Thunder Racing 220/220 cam would work really well for you. Even on a 112 LSA, I think you could pass emissions with a set of cats in place. If you're wanting to hear and feel the cam at idle and are looking for a little more performance, then a 224/224 cam would work well. I doubt you'd pass emissions with that much duration on a 112 LSA (it would be close), but I bet it would be pretty easy on a 114 LSA. The tighter (i.e. lower #) LSA will bring your powerband down some and give you more mid-range power while the wider LSA will provide more top-end power and a slightly better idle over the 112 LSA.

 

TrevorD.
I have 30 years of engine building experience... My spring choice was not based upon recomendations from others, and especially not from 'conventional wisdom' (which is usually wrong). I based my choice on understanding the design capabilities of the LS1 engine. I also try not to be a follower although part of my decision was based on watching GM and Lingenfelter and others who recognize that the LS1 thrives on lower spring pressure... For more information on mine and others opinions on this subject do a search on '918 vs 941 springs' in the past few weeks.
As a data point, there was another post in the last week about a guy that was running large fierra valves with 1.85 rockers and stock springs on an '01 Z06 (90# on the seat) This engine ran to 6300 rpm before he encountered valve float... Even I was impressed that he could rev that high. IMHO the 918 spring is a poor choice for a cammed LS1... Just because you are running 918's on a similar cam does not mean that it is a better way to go... I'd suggest that you try some 915's and reduce your valve train losses (more power at the flywheel) and reduce your risk of a broken timing chain...
You can follow the recommendations of people that know next to nothing about what they are talking about, or you can use knowledge, experience and engineering to search out superior combinations and lead the others across the finish line... Suit yourself...
Shirl :D


[Modified by MrEracer, 3:18 AM 7/1/2002]

 

I went with the 918's because I'm turning 6,800 RPM. At that RPM, I didn't want to risk floating the valves because I wanted a few more HP. I'm not worried with the timing chain; I'm going in with a Katech chain on the next cam swap. :) I went over 30k on the stock chain while running 981's and turning 6,800 RPM in my '98 T/A, and I know of MANY other cases that have done the same. That's not to say that it's ok. I've been involved in the LS1 community since '98, and I've followed the various problems locally and on the various message boards. I would personally consider the snapped timing chains a rarity, especially if you compare it to other things like failed oil pumps. I don't recommend the 918's because I'm running them. I recommend them because I feel the few extra HP are worth giving up in my application. I also spoke with MTI, Comp, and the SAM in Houston about which springs I should go with, and all of them told me the 918's for a single spring. I would have a hard time believing that Judson Massengill at the SAM doesn't know what he's talking about. ;)
Just how aggressive are the cams that Lingenfelter installs? Everything I've seen leave his shop is pretty mild. Also, the ZO6 has a lightweight valvetrain (including hollow valves) that certainly helps out. I've been across the finish line more than once with my inferior 918 springs, and my car is running very well for stock heads in "realistic" weather. I also plan on upgrading to a set of heads in the near future, and the larger, heavier valves should get the 918's IMO.


[Modified by Trevor D., 4:28 AM 7/1/2002]