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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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Default Engine ticking sound

I have 2002 Convertible with a remanufactured engine with about 4000 miles on it. Today, while driving, the engine started "ticking". It sounds like it is coming from cylinder #5 or#7. What could that be? A collapsed lifter, broken valve spring. bent push rod or a bad rocker arm ? Anyone know how to test for all the above? What is it most likely to be? Help !
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Is ticking loud? Much louder than before?
Can you take a video with sound and post it? Could be several things. Oil Pressure good?
Could be injector noise or exhaust leak or lifter.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FNFastZ06
Is ticking loud? Much louder than before?
Can you take a video with sound and post it? Could be several things. Oil Pressure good?
Could be injector noise or exhaust leak or lifter.
ticking not very loud, oil pressure good, injectors quiet,no exhaust leak. How do you check a lifter? Will try to make and post a video. Thanks
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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What oil brand and viscosity are you running, and what filter? I've seen ticking LS engines running on Mobil-1 5W-30 clear up just by switching to Mobil-1 High Mileage (extra zinc/phos anti-wear additives like the LS1 was originally specified to run.) In one case we went with Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic during hot weather, then back to M1 in the Fall. No more ticking.

For filters I stick with Wix or Purolator. Don't like the new "E-Core" filters Delco is selling, too flimsy looking inside.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 10:05 AM
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I too developed a some what loud ticking sound coming from the passenger side of the engine and also a loss of performance. Turned out to be a loose plug wire and the ignition coil was arching. Replaced the plug wire and ticking and performance issues were solved. Check those plug wires.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
What oil brand and viscosity are you running, and what filter? I've seen ticking LS engines running on Mobil-1 5W-30 clear up just by switching to Mobil-1 High Mileage (extra zinc/phos anti-wear additives like the LS1 was originally specified to run.) In one case we went with Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic during hot weather, then back to M1 in the Fall. No more ticking.

For filters I stick with Wix or Purolator. Don't like the new "E-Core" filters Delco is selling, too flimsy looking inside.
Mobil-1 5W-30 with a Delco AC filter. I will switch that after I pull the valve cover to see if I have a broken spring. I will also check my plug wires to see if they're ok. Thanks
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Well if you haven't lost any power the valve train is fine. If you have then we need to talk more.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HinsonSuperCars
Well if you haven't lost any power the valve train is fine. If you have then we need to talk more.
All the power is still there, it runs fine. Maybe I dodged the bullet?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:38 PM
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Your not out of the woods what just yet.Now we need to see if its spark or a rod bearing. Does the tick change with rpm.

Last edited by HinsonSuperCars; Sep 4, 2013 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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I had one that was ticking and kept getting louder. Found out it was a spark plug backing out...1/2 way out doh!
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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That is the way an exhaust leak sounds like.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rbrtclk
All the power is still there, it runs fine. Maybe I dodged the bullet?
Don't assume the worst, at least not yet. If you haven't "beaten" the car, you shouldn't have valvetrain issues, assuming it was put back together correctly. Check the basics, as mentioned above, first. Did the engine come with a warranty? If so, have you had the rebuilder, or their representative, look at it?
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 07:49 AM
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An exhaust leak will sound just like a bad lifter. I've had it happen many times. It is not uncommon for a new motor to require the exhaust headers to be re-tighten after 4000 miles. I've had to replace the exhaust gaskets after that length of time many times. If the builder did not use one of the many fastners that lock the exhaust bolt into the hole it will become loose and it will sound just like a bad lifter or pushrod. That's where I would look.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HinsonSuperCars
Your not out of the what just yet.Now we need to see if its spark or a rod bearing. Does the tick change with rpm.
The ticking does get faster as the RPM's increase.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Don't assume the worst, at least not yet. If you haven't "beaten" the car, you shouldn't have valvetrain issues, assuming it was put back together correctly. Check the basics, as mentioned above, first. Did the engine come with a warranty? If so, have you had the rebuilder, or their representative, look at it?
The engine does have a warranty. Problem is their representative is in Minnesota and I am in Ohio. I will check for exhaust leaks and loose plugs. The new engine has about 4000 miles on it. Thanks.

Last edited by rbrtclk; Sep 4, 2013 at 11:22 AM. Reason: incomplete
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Yes it does sound like a leak or spark at this point. Not a major problem.
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