timing advance


Idle: 14-20 degrees, varies a lot by engine/head design.
Low speed (rpm) cruise: In the 30s
Freeway speed crusing: In the 40s
Moderate acceleration: Varies A LOT by RPM and specific load
WOT high RPM: Should be fairly steady in the mif 20s.
Timing will be the lowest at low rpm/high load. Like giving 50-70% throttle at 1500RPM or so might put you in single digit spark advance.
Again this is just general ballpark, and I have never seen GM spark advance tables so don't go taking any of this as absolute lol
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It seems back in the day, before emissions stuff on a mechanical distributor, a vacuum advance could make a engine run smoother, with less throttle opening (set idle speed on carb) and also run cooler, say your in a long drive through Taco Bell.

However, when the emissions stuff came around, the vacuum advance was used as a "band aid" to help get the smog #'s down, such as no vacuum advance at idle, that along with low initial or base timing, engines ran sloppy, on brand new cars.
Supposedly the only time the vacuum advance would engage was at cruise.
The reason why was to get the NOX down at idle, if I understand, a less complete burn, lowered NOX, but then you had extra unburned gasoline, that then needed cats to burn off.
Anyways, I had been hooking up my vacuum advance wrong for years from what this old man that was a ignition guru said, for better idle and engine cooling, you need the vacuum source to be manifold, so it can get it any time the engine is in high vacuum, idle, cruise etc, vs port where you do not get the vacuum advance at idle.
Yeah yeah, why is this guy talking about old stuff in a LS discussion, well I'm thinking the basic idea applies to old and new, mechanical distributor ignition or modern LS ignition.
So about the high # of advance, in my reading on the old school stuff, say your initial timing is 14 degrees, your mechanical/centrifugal advance ads 21 degrees, and the vacuum advance ads 16 degrees, while cruising at light throttle on the highway, you could have 14+21+16=51 degrees of advance.
So maybe the modern stuff is similar, it just does it all by MAP manifold absolute sensors, and the ECM, no mechanical stuff like the old days, no weights springs to wear out, or distributor hold down clamp to get loose and timing be off.
This assumes the engine is warmed up.
And is under crusing conditions, light throttle etc.
There are modifier functions that either add or subtract from the main table based on all sorts of sensor inputs.
The majority of the modifiers subtract timing, for instance the IAT sensor reading.
It's pretty interesting stuff.
If you want to learn, buy HPT or similar tuning software and have a look.
Ron


Btw, interesting you should mention distributors, the LS cam sensor is now located exactly where the distributor used to be located, and the oil pressure sensor remains in the same location as millions of old school SBCs. Architecturally speaking, after the LT1 fiasco, what was once old is now "new" again.
This assumes the engine is warmed up.
And is under crusing conditions, light throttle etc.
There are modifier functions that either add or subtract from the main table based on all sorts of sensor inputs.
The majority of the modifiers subtract timing, for instance the IAT sensor reading.
It's pretty interesting stuff.
If you want to learn, buy HPT or similar tuning software and have a look.
Ron



Like Ron said, HP Tuners or EFI Live are a couple of the more well known, reputable, tuning suites out there today.












