When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it is also possible that you may have needed to add a shim to the slave cylinder. Did you take the measurements between the pressure plate fingers and the back of the bell housing and the thickness of the slave?
yes actually. ram makes an adjustable master cylinder that will allow you to change the engagement point. it's a GM oem master with a threaded rod
tick also makes one as well as mcloud but they will increase pedal pressure due to the larger pistons in them
I have the Tick adjuster on my car works great, But I dont think it is the correct way to fix the problem BUT it works great.
Originally Posted by SaberD
it is also possible that you may have needed to add a shim to the slave cylinder. Did you take the measurements between the pressure plate fingers and the back of the bell housing and the thickness of the slave?
Here is the correct way to fix the issue But you need to be right on with the shim or you can damage the clutch. Get a hold of Richie @ Abel he is the one that shared this info with me a couple yrs. ago when I used the LS7 Clutch I now have a clutch custom made by TPS and it works great with the Tick adjuster.
I have the Tick adjuster on my car works great, But I dont think it is the correct way to fix the problem BUT it works great.
Here is the correct way to fix the issue But you need to be right on with the shim or you can damage the clutch. Get a hold of Richie @ Abel he is the one that shared this info with me a couple yrs. ago when I used the LS7 Clutch I now have a clutch custom made by TPS and it works great with the Tick adjuster.
that's just an insane amount of work to do if a master cylinder could change the pedal to his liking? as long as he's not past the range of useable adjustment it would sure be much more simple than tearing the drive line out to make a measurement
The clutch only has about 5K on it but always engaged low to the floor. Now I'm getting resistence going into gears when the car is warmed up. It's kinda variable. The tranny has 75K on it but it seems weird that multiple gears would be messed all at once. Just looking for ideas. Thanks for the replies.
The clutch only has about 5K on it but always engaged low to the floor. Now I'm getting resistence going into gears when the car is warmed up. It's kinda variable. The tranny has 75K on it but it seems weird that multiple gears would be messed all at once. Just looking for ideas. Thanks for the replies.
well, if you didn't have enough travel and the slave did need a shim it would make sense. you're simply not able to push the clutch in far enough
the ram master is like $200 and may fix your problem, if it doesn't you'll have to tear the car apart
personally i would try the ram just because it's simple and really could fix the issue by dialing in more travel
The clutch only has about 5K on it but always engaged low to the floor. Now I'm getting resistence going into gears when the car is warmed up. It's kinda variable. The tranny has 75K on it but it seems weird that multiple gears would be messed all at once. Just looking for ideas. Thanks for the replies.
I had the same issue (on a stock ls1 clutch though) and installed a tick master. I haven't had any problems since. My issues with engagement started out intermittent, but became so bad that I had to clutch less shift any time I drove it. Try changing the brake fluid in the master cylinder out( use the ranger method) if it had dirty fluid, and if that doesn't work just drop in an adjustable master.
Before you spend any money, take the car to track or nobody is on the road, drive like you racing 1/4 mile, do it couple times......thats it.
I am opposite, i install new clutch do some breakin period few hundred miles and than rip it let it eat, release bearing pp....everything will settle where they supposed to be.
I assume you have no air trapped in the system and bleed it right....if its still not right and engaging at the floor than you have 2 options, 1> Tick adjustable master or do on your own stock modified (you may possibly send yours to rpm motors charlie or A&A to make it adjustable and send you back.....ask them first if they can do...or 2> uninstall diff/tranny TT and install Shim (get it from Tick shift).
Edit: I brutally hate Tick shift adjustable master......make your pedal rock solid, i had it for few months and i sold for cheap.....only advantage i was able to raise pedal higher and shift 3-4 at the track...but on street.....son of ........ damage my knee i still had pain even after one year.
GL.
Last edited by sami85L98; Oct 22, 2013 at 08:22 PM.
I have a remote bleeder and did that this weekend. It helped but didn't solve the problem. I may just bleed it again, buy something more is going on.
Read my post previous again.....i said take it remote place and drive like you doin 1/4 mile racing....take it 5k rpm, just couple runs and thats it.....your pedal engage height will be higher.
I have the exact same problem. And my driveline is on the floor as we speak I'm replacing the slave due to way to much clutch dust. Since it's apart can someone point me in the right direction on shiming the slave. I have a Ton of shims from jet ski parts. Any where from .5mm -4mm
So put the new slave in and didn't shim because I was unaware on how to shim it and the new slave seems to help but the clutch is still not releasing all the way. I went out and picked up a tick MC putting it in now and I will post if it fixes these problem.