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DRL/TS bulb replace the hard way

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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Default DRL/TS bulb replace the hard way

Looked at the various ways suggested to replace the DRL/TS bulb.

First tried thru the brake duct cooler. Moved duct downward then tried putting my hand in there. WRONGO! Hand too big and would have gotten stuck in the bumper opening.

Second opened headlight and removed 3 screws and plastic shroud.
Could reach socket but not turn it. THEN hood came crashing down and pinned both hands between hood and body. After being rescued decided that was not the way to go.

Third jacked up front of car and removed paper splash shield by removing 5 - 7mm screws. Got access to socket. Removed socket and bulb and replaced bulb. Replaced shroud and screws.

The "hardest" method proved to be the "easiest" by far.

Last edited by bighank; Dec 8, 2013 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 01:22 AM
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15
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What were the engineers thinking for something so simple. On my wifes 07 srx , to change the same bulb, you must jack up front, remove front tire and inner fender and then remove a cover that houses the bulb socket. What would a dealer charge to change a six dollar bulb?
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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I tried the headlight shroud removed way once.
I am not a small person and when I decided there was no way to get my arm down that far I found that it went down easier than coming up. I got stuck and could not get it out and no one was around to help. I could picture the rescue squad cutting the car to get me out so calling 911 was not an option. It took about an hour and when I got it out I was bleeding in several places, i think the blood actually was what provided enough lube to get it out.

The sad thing is the front lights on a C5 easy compared to the real of a C4
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14
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I got big hands and arms have zero problem reaching after I take off the light shroud and hood adjustment bumper
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 12:40 AM
  #5  
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From: Morristown TN
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Originally Posted by OKZ06
I got big hands and arms have zero problem reaching after I take off the light shroud and hood adjustment bumper

Before I started I did not think about the hood adjuster bumper.
I have not had to try again, every time I have had to do anything since I have been under it already. Plus I installed LED's The standard bulbs get so hot they eventually burn a small hole in top of the housings. That was a bad design to start with. If the bulbs went in horizontally other than vertical it would have helped with easier changing and heat damage to housings.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 08:10 PM
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I have big hands as well and I changed the DRL through the brake duct. Right hand for the left side, left hand for the right. once you get past the bumper it was easy. Took less than 5 min.
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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MY method was to go to home depot, and get a 14 foot 2x12 cut into pieces. 2x12, 2x24 and the 2x4 ft rest provides the base for the stack. The weight of the car holds the stack in place, but it is easier to move and store in sections. I drive up and reach underneath and unfasten the shroud. I can reach in and see the socket when I pull it out to work on the bulb. I think the board cost 8-12 dollars, the cuts were free. Very stable work platform, once chalked.

I loose my left turn signal function often after the car gets wet. It usually returns after it dries out, but last time in. I smeared conductive grease in there and upset the situation.

If it doesn't dry out and start working by the week end, I"ll be stacking the lumber and putting down some cushion to lie on when I again work on my left turn signal.

I do it this way because I get bummed when I tear my skin trying to reach tough areas. I don't want to move any adjustments to fix a light. Working from below is my choice, the ramp makes it better.

Last edited by strand rider; Dec 11, 2013 at 11:03 PM.
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