Gentlemen, I need some help and guidance. 2002 Z06 all stock. I usually drive it about once every two or three days. I had noticed for the last month that the engine turned over a bit sluggish but cranked right up and ran fine so I figured the battery was on its way out. Yesterday, after letting it sit for about a week, I went to start it and nothing......no power to anything as best I could tell so I attached my battery charger and let it sit for the afternoon. The battery never did come to full charge and with the charger disconnected I still had a dead car. I went this morning and bought a new battery but the engine would only turn over, try to run for a split second and when I release the start position would immediatley die. Then it would not even turn over. Dash warning was flashing "reduced engine power" and "low fuel". I thought it had plenty of gas but just to be sure, I poured in 5 gallons, with the same results. I read some on the forum about loose battery connections so I disconnected the negative, checked the positive at the starter, got maybe 1/2 turn on it but that's about all. Reconnected the negative and repeat of the same thing. It will turn over and act like it is going to start then will refuse to even turn over. I hear the fuel pump priming but don't know where to check pressure or what it should read. I tried to retrieve codes but my reader gives me a a communication error and the onboard reader will not go into scan mode. It continues to flash reduced power and low fuel. Also the fuel gauge swings to full as it always has but drops to empty even though I know it has a minimum of 5 gallons, probably more in the tank. Any help, thoughts, ideas what to look for, try next? I don't want to run right out and buy a pump since they are a bit pricey. Thanks

 

Thanks for the quick response. I will check battery voltage. As for the code reader, neither my reader nor the built in reader work. I have used the OBD in the past with good results but in this instance the dash refuses to go into diagnsotic mode. Could this be a symptom of the problem? Thanks.

 

start with a full charge on the battery. these cars do crazy things when the charge is low. test fuel pressure with a gauge, turn the key to the on position and see what the pressure reads. iirc should read ~45-52 psi.

S

 

Time to break out your meter. Wouldn't be the first new battery to be bad or not fully charged. My bet is on a bad connection.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I charged the battery to 12.9 volts but get the same symptoms. I believe it is electrical gremlins and not fuel delivery problems. I discovered the power windows, radio, passenger mirror, door locks, do NOT work. The climate control, drivers mirror, power seat, door unlock DO work. The remote will not lock or unlock anything. The temperature gauge pegs full hot whenever the key is on. The fuel pegs full empty. Sometimes it will crank and run 2-3 seconds but most times just until you release the key from start. If I keep cranking after the first sputter it does no good to keep it running. Not sure how all this ties together but guessing there is a harness junction somewhere that is acting badly. I tried adding a second ground cable from the battery to the engine but had no effect. Anyone up on where to look for problems?

 

How many miles on car? Have you checked voltage at the fuses for those things that are not working? Could it possibly be the ignition switch?
Chris

 

Thanks Chris, 57k miles on the car. I ran out of time today but will tackle the electrical testing next. Is there an (relatively) easy way to access the ignition switch to see what it is doing?

 

Do a search and find the thread about testing and/or rebuilding it. Bill Curly(sp?) made it and it should help. I have to spend some time with my better half right now so will check back later. Rebuilt on for my buddies 97 and it cleared up some of his issues. He had about 63,000 miles on his. I am sorry I can't help more now but will check back later to help. I am sure others may chime in by then.
Chris

 

Hotrodder56,
Have you been able to look through the links provided? Any testing yet?
Chris

 

Looked through the links and read about dash disassembly. I hope it is not as complicated as it sounds, but first I am going to try metering the wires in the fuse panel to gain some insight on where the problem might lie. Will be first of the week before I can get to it. Luckily this is not my only transportation.

 

Good! Check fuse boxes first and then get back to us with what you find.
Chris

 

Exact same scenario for me. Try unhooking the battery, put the key in the ignition and cycle it from "off" to "on" for about 10 minutes, or a hundred cycles or so. With the battery disconnected the key can be turned without causing an arc between the contacts. This supposedly removes a little carbon or corrosion build up in the switch. Then reconnect battery and see if it helps. If it does, likely bad ignition switch. I read this tip somewhere and would like to give credit but I cannot find it again. Hope it works for you too!!

 

Got a chance to do a little more with the car. Monday I was going to check the fuse box for voltage at each fuse but first I attempted to start the car just to see if the symptoms had changed. It started right up and everything appeared normal - a minor miracle I thought. I started it several times and it seemed OK so I decided to drive it to an appointment I had about 20 miles away. Five miles from home the gauges went crazy again, the radio and windows quit, and beeping alert from the dash commenced...but the car ran fine. I continued to drive, somewhat cautiously but it drove fine except for the non functioning electrical. I parked and when the appointment was over, it would not turn over, again like a dead battery. I disconnected the negative cable, reconnected, and it started right up but the same electrical gremlins were present. Drove home, ran fine, same conditions. Tuesday I didn't have much time but did crank it up two or three times and each time everything was back to normal. No sign of problems anywhere. I have to believe all the electronics that go out are tied together somewhere, either the ignition switch or some junction as they all quit and come back in unison. That's it for now. I can drive it but don't trust it and figure it will repeat this condition until I track down the culprit.

 

It does sound like your ignition switch. My car would behave similarly when its ignition switch would get carboned up. It's very easy to pull them out and clean them, but my personal experience is once you start cleaning them you have to reclean them about once a year. YMMV So when I had mine out for its third recleaning, I just replaced it. As I recall the part was fairly cheap (< $100). The switch module separates from the lock tumbler so no worries on getting re-keyed.

The ignition switch contacts are not the type that can self-clean. If you pull one apart, you'll see it's just a series of spring arms pressing down onto a contact plate. There's no friction on the contact surfaces.

 

8VETTE7.....Bingo. You nailed it with the last link. My car does, in fact, get moisture in it after a hard rain if caught outside. I have tried several times, without success, to find the source of the leak, so this post reveals the problem with the electronics and the remedy for the water infiltration. I have everything dried out and the car runs fine once again. Next step is to work on the leak repair. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions, it is greatly appreciated.