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Crank position sensor 24X vs 58X

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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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Default Crank position sensor 24X vs 58X

Does any one know if the 58X sensor is longer than the 24X sensor? i.e. with the 58X sensor protrude further into the block

Thanks
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Why are you thinking of installing the 58x sensor? Someone else may chime in, but I would advise using the o.e. 24X when you fix your car. Do not get a cheap aftermarket sensor!
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Default Crank Sensor

Originally Posted by martysauto
Why are you thinking of installing the 58x sensor? Someone else may chime in, but I would advise using the o.e. 24X when you fix your car. Do not get a cheap aftermarket sensor!
...especially since its a bit of a PITA to get at.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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The reason I ask is: I'm wondering if the mounting boss on a newer generation block that's designed for the 58X reluctor is any different than the mounting boss of the older generation blocks. If the mounting boss is different; the older 24X reluctor may not be sufficiently close to the reluctor wheel to generate a good signal once the block heats up and expands etc.

I do plan on using the OE sensor. As you stated, it's a real PITA to get at especially with headers. So I only want to do this once and need to be sure the sensor lengths are the same between the newer generation block and the older generation. Otherwise, I may need to mill the block a little while it's apart to get the 24X sensor closer to the reluctor wheel.

Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; Jan 27, 2014 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
The reason I ask is: I'm wondering if the mounting boss on a newer generation block that's designed for the 58X reluctor is any different than the mounting boss of the older generation blocks. If the mounting boss is different; the older 24X reluctor may not be sufficiently close to the reluctor wheel to generate a good signal once the block heats up and expands etc.

I do plan on using the OE sensor. As you stated, it's a real PITA to get at especially with headers. So I only want to do this once and need to be sure the sensor lengths are the same between the newer generation block and the older generation. Otherwise, I may need to mill the block a little while it's apart to get the 24X sensor closer to the reluctor wheel.
Mounting bosses are the same throughout. I have a 24X sensor mounted to my LS7 block with no issues whatever.

HTH
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Mounting bosses are the same throughout. I have a 24X sensor mounted to my LS7 block with no issues whatever.

HTH
Thanks, that's what I needed confirmation on.

My sensor must have just crapped out or gotten damaged during the engine install.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
Thanks, that's what I needed confirmation on.

My sensor must have just crapped out or gotten damaged during the engine install.
Just some food for thought:

I don't know what all you've checked out of course, but I wouldn't rule out a faulty connector and/or wiring either. Most of the LSx sensors deal with very low voltage and current levels, so it wouldn't take much in the way of a loose or ill-fitting or deformed connector pin to create a higher than normal resistance, and the subsequent voltage drop that goes with it. Maybe even an intermittent open-circuit too. Wiring harnesses often get banged around pretty good during engine swaps.

HTH
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Just some food for thought:

I don't know what all you've checked out of course, but I wouldn't rule out a faulty connector and/or wiring either. Most of the LSx sensors deal with very low voltage and current levels, so it wouldn't take much in the way of a loose or ill-fitting or deformed connector pin to create a higher than normal resistance, and the subsequent voltage drop that goes with it. Maybe even an intermittent open-circuit too. Wiring harnesses often get banged around pretty good during engine swaps.

HTH
I agree. Once I get it all apart I'll be checking the connector pins etc. to ensure they are good before it's all put back together.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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I got the crank sensor replaced and it seems to be running better and didn't die on me after driving around for 15-20 minutes.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
I got the crank sensor replaced and it seems to be running better and didn't die on me after driving around for 15-20 minutes.
Sounds like so far, so good.
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