I just had the clutch changed in my 03 c5z, rear engine cover plate and seal kit and 2 differential output seals, also had the cam shaft postion sensor replaced along with intake manifold seal set replaced.

On the way home the vette just quit running while in 6th gear doing approx.70mph. gauges stopped working, blinkers not working, engine quit no power steering, etc. By dropping it in 5th gear and popping the clutch it started again.
Drove another 30 miles and got caught in traffic when it happened another 5 or 6 times in any gear at any speed, even idling and not moving. Everytime I was able to start car by either popping clutch or turning key and cranking it.

In the morning I will be checking the connections to the battery, then I will be checking the body grounds. Is there a specific ground I can look at? Or is there something else that anyone might know of that would cause this. Could it have anything to do with the camshaft position sensor? This has never happened since I bought the car in july until today. I've had a couple of charge system faults in the DIC before the work was done that have come up right after starting vehicle, but nothing has ever happened.

 

Done a hundred crank sensors on Northstars w/ your same symptoms.
Just sayin.
Prob same junkazz supplier or close for LS engines.
GL

 

I agree you need to check your codes. It is most probable that the issue is related to the work done to the engine. Make sure all the affected connectors are fully seated. Keep us posted.

 

Hmm, could be related to the crank sensor. Yup, pull codes and report back. Battery power sounds fine, but could be a loose connection.

 

Classic symptoms of an intermittent crank sensor failure. Pull your codes first. If there are no relevant codes, I would bet the crank sensor is on its way out.

PS: A cam sensor failure does not cause stalling. A crank sensor will.

 

And they typically do NOT throw codes till they are on their last legs.

 

Pulled the codes and had a current code of p0135 with a historical and current code on hvac of B0338.

 

Thank you all for your helpful comments I will look into the crank sensor. I did have a loose ground connector behind drivers side wheel. I cleaned it up and tightened it down and the problem still exsists.

 

P0135 is a trouble code for poor 02 sensor performance. I wouldn't think this would cause the car to die while driving. I'd give the car some good visual check overs, especially around the crank sensor and grounds.

 

I'd be surprised if it was not the crank sensor. I screwed around with everything else for months before I finally got the CPK code. Cheap part but a PITA to get at, especially if you have headers.

 

If he lost his blinkers, I think he may have an ignition switch crapping out. All symptoms point at the crank sensor except the loss of blinkers.

 

Yeah, that's what keeps me from saying crank sensor. Is there any weight hanging on the key chain? Maybe remove the FOB.

But... I told my brother his Buick crank sensor was bad for two years! Just because it didn't have an immedient code showing doesn' tmean it didn't shut it down. He changed it and it hasn't stalled since.

Does sound more like the ignition switch with the blinker problem though like the guy above said. (Forgot to quote him)

 

Just a crank sensor WILL NOT cause all of his electrical problems. He is having a major loss of electrical power affecting the engine/PCM and BCM related indications like the IPC. Time to look at the power input from the battery to the Engine fuse box and related grounds as a start. PM me if you need any help. It might be related to the battery also if it is not charging correctly due to a bad connection at the starter or alternator. Trying to first focus on things related to any engine work.

This may help:

 

Just for "grins" check the connections at the starter, this is a known problem area that can cause a lot of these kinds of issues too.

 

well rule out the crank sensor, the starter and headers were removed to do install on the crank sensor, and I still have the same problem. the connection on the starter is good checked it. Help still lost. the dtc is throwing no codes for this problem cleared the codes and now I have no codes hsowing current even though I have run the car 100 miles since clearing codes. the stalling problem has gotten worse too.

 

could it be a ecm, pcm going out?

 

You appear to be having a major loss of 12 volt power. Based on your statements in post #1 you are losing things associated with the PCM, BCM, IPC, and other non computer related circuits. Your charge system faults could be a clue. I am curious that no codes are being thrown. Just a PCM would not do everything you see.

You need to recheck all your power leads and grounds in the engine area. If it were me, I would set up to monitor battery voltage inside the car. This can be done a couple of different ways.

 

Pull battery and look below the tray, maybe you have issues under there where the PCM lives from previous batteries??

 

Check the engine block ground and make sure it's tight. It's above the starter/below exhaust manifold. Mine was loose at one point and did the same thing, got a lot of no communication codes/messages and would constantly shut off

 

Turned out to be shorting wire from fuel pump. it would short our and loose fuel pressure and not throw any codes. All fixed though : )