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Most cost effective way to replace ls1

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 04:36 PM
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Default Most cost effective way to replace ls1

I have a 01 convertible with a4, 342 gears, astro van stall converter and a base a&a v3 sc kit. Something is locking up engine 1500 miles after supercharger install, car and motor have 50,000 all miles. Pretty sure bottom end toast, at shop now. Car will start, get hot, shutter and lock up, won't turn over for several minutes , but after cooling down just a few minutes will fire up and run again. I am not a mechanic but this seems pretty bad, oil pressure only about 15 psi but nothing slapping. mechanic says he has never seen an ls1 act like this, he thinks it could be in torque tube or stall converter, but that doesn't explain low oil press . He changed oil and said it had metal in it but said sometimes if driven hard (and it was for 1500 miles)
Oil will have metal in it . I'm sure I need at least a bottom end but may need more if torque tube or tranny bad also. He is a busy shop so further diagnosis is coming, slowly, but I'm trying to plan. So long story short what is most cost effective way back on road? I was happy with horsepower I had with just supercharger. I was thinking short or long block and reuse what I can. Any suggestions would be welcome and feel free to speculate on diagnosis, since all I can do for now is wait.
Thank you for reading this long post
Adam

Last edited by Forcedvert; Feb 8, 2014 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Do they test the oil pressure with a quality mechanical gauge? Did they cut open the oil filter? Who tuned it? Does it "lock up" in neutral or just in park or drive? A locked converter will stall the engine.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by martysauto
Do they test the oil pressure with a quality mechanical gauge? Did they cut open the oil filter? Who tuned it? Does it "lock up" in neutral or just in park or drive? A locked converter will stall the engine.
Waiting for that test, shop owner going to do it soon?, but his guys think it is too noisy on bottom end not to be the problem, owner more conservative about diagnosing, but locks driving, in park and neutral as when it happened I tried to keep it running in neutral but still stalls. No noises I could hear even with top down. I only pulled over to turn around and had rattle under hood and stalled. Opened hood and restarted and only strange noise I could hear was belt slipping off of water pump so I thought it was a accessory or supercharger bearings. Was not hot but as I tried to get to my mechanics shop it kept stalling so I started watching oil pressure and went all the way down to 7 psi so I shut it down and had it towed. Oil was burnt, my fault I thought they changed when sc put on. Was 1 quart low, pushing out air cleaner. But no smoke or loud bottom knock. Only noisy on lift with stethoscope. It also locks with belt off. Base tune was from a&a.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcedvert
Waiting for that test, shop owner going to do it soon?, but his guys think it is too noisy on bottom end not to be the problem, owner more conservative about diagnosing, but locks driving, in park and neutral as when it happened I tried to keep it running in neutral but still stalls. No noises I could hear even with top down. I only pulled over to turn around and had rattle under hood and stalled. Opened hood and restarted and only strange noise I could hear was belt slipping off of water pump so I thought it was a accessory or supercharger bearings. Was not hot but as I tried to get to my mechanics shop it kept stalling so I started watching oil pressure and went all the way down to 7 psi so I shut it down and had it towed. Oil was burnt, my fault I thought they changed when sc put on. Was 1 quart low, pushing out air cleaner. But no smoke or loud bottom knock. Only noisy on lift with stethoscope. It also locks with belt off. Base tune was from a&a.
I think he did cut open filter, same fine metal he found in oil, he plans to disconnect torque converter to rule it out. He did say he has seen a torque tube lock a motor but it didn't free up like this does?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcedvert
I think he did cut open filter, same fine metal he found in oil, he plans to disconnect torque converter to rule it out. He did say he has seen a torque tube lock a motor but it didn't free up like this does?
Does the fact it happens in neutral rule out torque converter?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 11:35 AM
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Yes. It sounds like the engine will be coming out. Make sure when all it's all fixed, you have it Dyno tuned by a competent tuner who's familiar with forced induction.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcedvert
Does the fact it happens in neutral rule out torque converter?
It should rule out the converter, however you need to get rid of that astro van converter.
Sadly it was designed for a 6 cyl engine and does not have the capacity to handle the torque of a V8 let alone a supercharged V8.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettebob1
It should rule out the converter, however you need to get rid of that astro van converter.
Sadly it was designed for a 6 cyl engine and does not have the capacity to handle the torque of a V8 let alone a supercharged V8.
Will do.
Thanks
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettebob1
It should rule out the converter, however you need to get rid of that astro van converter.
Sadly it was designed for a 6 cyl engine and does not have the capacity to handle the torque of a V8 let alone a supercharged V8.
As far as the Astro Van converter goes I have used it in my C5 with a RPM transmission for several years and 60000 miles without any problem. I haven't been easy on it either works great.
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