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Ride height bolt stuck

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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Default Ride height bolt stuck

After two days of soaking in PB Blaster the bolts will not move. Do I give up and purchase a new front spring.

Not sure how to remove and replace a spring. Can heat be used on the bolt?


Any ideas?

thanks, wj
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 01:26 PM
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I have the same problem with my front left bolt on my 99. Hope there are some good suggestions given here. Glad you posted.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wahoo12
After two days of soaking in PB Blaster the bolts will not move. Do I give up and purchase a new front spring.

Not sure how to remove and replace a spring. Can heat be used on the bolt?


Any ideas?

thanks, wj
Did you relieve the pressure on the spring
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuz13
Did you relieve the pressure on the spring
^Exactly, relieve the pressure on the spring by putting a jack underneath the side your trying to adjust and it will turn easier.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuz13
Did you relieve the pressure on the spring
Originally Posted by johnnyzvette
^Exactly, relieve the pressure on the spring by putting a jack underneath the side your trying to adjust and it will turn easier.
I 3rd that notion.....

Toque
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Yes, I used a floor jack to relieve the pressure. The first time I didn't know to relieve the pressure. After reading about a jack under the spring I decided to try again. Thinking that two days of PB Blaster the bolts would move freely. No movement at all.

At vette shows my car higher than most. 28" at the top of the fender on both sides. 6" from the ground to the jacking point on the frame.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:38 PM
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Big pair of channel locks on the metal part of the pad helps. As does heat on the adj end.

It will come loose eventually.

When I finally got the LF broken free, I discovered it was bent. So I had to cut in half and replace.

Ron
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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I used a piece of wood under the spring so I wouldn't crack the spring. I also removed the bottom bolts on the shock which allows you to get to the top of the bolt easier. I went slow with the jacking ,watching and feeling the bolt for movement. Hope this helps.

Gene
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 11:29 PM
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Thanks to all that have replied.

Ron. In order to use channel locks did you pull the spring out?

Gene. I didn't check the bolt while jacking the spring. I did use a piece of wood on the spring.

Back to work in the morning. Seems like a simple project.

thanks again.

wayne
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 02:52 AM
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Wayne,

I had the lower control arm off. My car was a NJ winter driver and I wanted to clean everything, so I simply took it all apart.
You could just remove the lower shock bolts and disconnect the sway bar to get at it better.

I pretty much cheated.......

Funny thing was, after I got it out and replaced, and before I put it all back together, I bought a set of Z06 springs....and those bolts were stuck too!

I see you are in Roseburg. A bit too far to drive down and help.....


Ron
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:05 AM
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Take the spring out, it'll take about 15 minutes and make it so much easier to work on compared to fighting with it around the suspension. You do need the car about 2' off the ground on stands to do it. Mark the lower A-arm camber bolts so you can get the washers back in the same spot. Then, jack the spring just like you are doing and remove the lower a-arm bolts and pull the a-arm loose from the cradle. Lower the jack while you pull out the suspension to get the end of the spring below the arm. Then, move the jack to the end of the spring and jack it up once more before removing the 2 spring retaining plates. Then, lower the arm and you have the spring out. So easy you don't even need to remove the wheel on the one side. There is a write-up floating around where you have to almost rip the whole suspension apart on both sides to get the spring out which is ridiculous.

Once you have the spring out, clean the threaded end that sticks out above the spring. Then, heat the bolt a bit and you can easily get a hold of the big end with channel locks to turn the bolt right out of the spring. Clean the bolt again and the threaded insert in the spring before applying anti-seize and putting it back together.

Last edited by lionelhutz; Mar 23, 2014 at 01:45 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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Mine were stuck as well. I did what lionelhutz did and removed my spring. However I put the big pad end of the bolt into a vise and used the spring as my leverage handle. Worked great and they broke free pretty easily.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mstromquist
Mine were stuck as well. I did what lionelhutz did and removed my spring. However I put the big pad end of the bolt into a vise and used the spring as my leverage handle. Worked great and they broke free pretty easily.
How did you get the car high enough? Do you have the torgue spec the bolts?

Thanks for the help,

wayne
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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I actually took both tires off and had it as high as I could get it on jack stands. Worked well enough and I had room under the car to maneuver around under it. I don't remember the torque specs off hand but did find this pdf that has pretty much everything for the C5. Hope this helps.

C5 Corvette Torque Specs
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 05:12 PM
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A floor jack and 6 ton or 12 ton jack stands make it fairly easy to get the car about 2' off the ground.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Thanks guys for the help. Have the knowledge to complete this project. Drive safe.

Ron, lets keep in touch I travel to the Portland area from time to time. Try to make Woodburn Drags twice a year.

Take care,
Wayne
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