Starter Design Can Break The Block
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 191
Likes: 23
From: Louisville KY
I can't say what would be required with stock manifolds, but I had to take my aftermarket header loose at both ends, not getting around it.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
I can't sleep now, I have a corvette 1998 with 161,000 miles outside that has had 0 engine problems thus far and now I'm losing sleep over a starter. Which I will be checking before I go to sleep.
Before I do so I would like to point out that if you remove the header I believe you could get at the starter mounts from up top and just weld the **** out of it without thinking twice. Since the material has such a low melting temp you could use a crap 120 dollar welding and do it with decent results. I am just thinking out-loud of course. It is a starter, not a rocket engine.
Before I do so I would like to point out that if you remove the header I believe you could get at the starter mounts from up top and just weld the **** out of it without thinking twice. Since the material has such a low melting temp you could use a crap 120 dollar welding and do it with decent results. I am just thinking out-loud of course. It is a starter, not a rocket engine.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
I can't sleep now, I have a corvette 1998 with 161,000 miles outside that has had 0 engine problems thus far and now I'm losing sleep over a starter. Which I will be checking before I go to sleep.
Before I do so I would like to point out that if you remove the header I believe you could get at the starter mounts from up top and just weld the **** out of it without thinking twice. Since the material has such a low melting temp you could use a crap 120 dollar welding and do it with decent results. I am just thinking out-loud of course. It is a starter, not a rocket engine.
Before I do so I would like to point out that if you remove the header I believe you could get at the starter mounts from up top and just weld the **** out of it without thinking twice. Since the material has such a low melting temp you could use a crap 120 dollar welding and do it with decent results. I am just thinking out-loud of course. It is a starter, not a rocket engine.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 856
From: Walhalla South Carolina
I don't think I will be changing mine just to be changing it. From what I have read there isn't a high % of this happening but who knows. I think welding the block is a little more involved than using a cheap buz box. I have a buz box and can do a decent job of welding but I wouldn't touch this.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 17,710
Likes: 1,219
From: Phila PA, Bonita Springs FL
Does sound when car turns off sound like a bad starter?
Maybe not disengaging or something?
What is this noise?
Happens on shut down only...
Other than that, car is running fine..
Maybe not disengaging or something?
What is this noise?
Happens on shut down only...
Other than that, car is running fine..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,639
Likes: 326
From: Greenville SC
Maybe not disengaging, it is on correct side. I have read where they do this, and make a similar noise. If you have never changed starter, may be worth it now to check that issue, and put in new style starter.
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
Thanks for your valuable feedback dadaroo.............
For you the rest of you, I decided to modify my starter, to the two long bolt design, because of the crappy reman and import starter quality out there, as well as the fact that a new Delco unit is $200 with a core exchange. My 03 Z06 only has 10 K on it so why replace with new....After much research I learned there are several units which will bolt in place, but they have longer housings or lower cranking power. The longer housing can be a real problem for installation if you have headers as I do. The lower cranking power might not be a problem buy why over work it if you don't have to.
Luckily a local Alternator and Starter repair shop had the correct drive nose end and did the swap for $35, then I picked up a starter bolt kit for $5. If you care to do the same you will need the drive end nose from a Lester 6492. The Lester PN is a universal number, anyone that knows starters will understand what you need. I will say it was a damn tight fit with the longer bolt boss. It was a exercise in patience shoehorn that thing in there. You might not think it would make a difference, but it does.
For you the rest of you, I decided to modify my starter, to the two long bolt design, because of the crappy reman and import starter quality out there, as well as the fact that a new Delco unit is $200 with a core exchange. My 03 Z06 only has 10 K on it so why replace with new....After much research I learned there are several units which will bolt in place, but they have longer housings or lower cranking power. The longer housing can be a real problem for installation if you have headers as I do. The lower cranking power might not be a problem buy why over work it if you don't have to.
Luckily a local Alternator and Starter repair shop had the correct drive nose end and did the swap for $35, then I picked up a starter bolt kit for $5. If you care to do the same you will need the drive end nose from a Lester 6492. The Lester PN is a universal number, anyone that knows starters will understand what you need. I will say it was a damn tight fit with the longer bolt boss. It was a exercise in patience shoehorn that thing in there. You might not think it would make a difference, but it does.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 8
From: Tuskegee Al
Just did a little research. The Procomp Electronics unit previously mentioned looks promising except why pay $170 when the manufacturer sells it for $89.99? Procomp's online store is called SpeedMaster79. If you feel the need to spend the extra $80...just send it to me 
I just put one in the cart and it looks like they're giving free shipping.
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-256...ter-motor.aspx
Attachment 47785900
Attachment 47785901
Their price on their OEM style starter is $62.99. Why would you want to pay $129.99 to a third party vendor for the same starter? Again...if you really feel the need to spend the extra $67 + shipping....just send it to me. I'll make good use of it
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-240...ter-motor.aspx
Attachment 47785915
I just put one in the cart and it looks like they're giving free shipping.http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-256...ter-motor.aspx
Attachment 47785900
Attachment 47785901
Their price on their OEM style starter is $62.99. Why would you want to pay $129.99 to a third party vendor for the same starter? Again...if you really feel the need to spend the extra $67 + shipping....just send it to me. I'll make good use of it
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-240...ter-motor.aspx
Attachment 47785915
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,367
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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or a bosch for a little over $100, that's what I used and it has been working great... I did mine when I installed the clutch... I didn't have any starter problems but I figured I might as well do it for peace of mind and while my headers were out of the way... I also bought a sheet of adhesive heat shield to cover the housing of the starter and my headers are coated so that should keep it happy for awhile
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
or a bosch for a little over $100, that's what I used and it has been working great... I did mine when I installed the clutch... I didn't have any starter problems but I figured I might as well do it for peace of mind and while my headers were out of the way... I also bought a sheet of adhesive heat shield to cover the housing of the starter and my headers are coated so that should keep it happy for
awhile
awhile
Same for me. New Bosch. Bolted right up.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
A way around broke starter block C5
I had the broke block starter mount problem. The small bolt ear broke first then ran for a long while unknown. Then the block bolt mount broke. I made a step block from the M6 transmission bell housing bolt next to the starter to the long bolt hole of the starter. I threaded the long starter bolt hole with a 1/2 - 13 tap 2" deep in the existing size hole then drilled and tapped M6 housing hole deep at 3/8 - 16. I made a step block with an ear to go from hole to hole. I used a Bridgeport manual mill to machine the step block I added about .005 to the step to give it some compression when the bolts were tightened down. I had to take a 90 deg die grinder with a sand disk to touch off on the starter to make flat and M6 housing bolt spot for flatness of step block mount. I also had to round the edge of block to clear the borla exhaust from rubbing. Worked great and no welding or pulling of motor ect
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Sorry, I have a photo to better see and understand but not one of the block on me but I will get one and repost it. I also have dimensions and can make a drawing and repost this weekend. I will say the step on my car measured .52 I made mine .525 . Here is a photo (turned to the side) of the two bolt holes. if you imagine a square tab coming off the M6 tranny hole (tapped 3/8-16 and bolted down) then stepping down .525 to the starter as a block (kind of L shape) then going over to starter bolt hole with bolt hole in it (bolted to starter after tapping starter hole 1/2-13 very deep because its aluminum. top of the block remains flat with bottom of block has step. Looking at the picture you will see that the holes from factory have slight counter bore marks in a circular ridges. I took a 90deg die grinder with a sandpaper pad and gently touched off on both bolt spots to make the area flat so block will sit flat. I had to round the corner of the block in a pretty good radius to clear exhaust. I used a good hard bolts like a M8 (grade 8) hex head. I used dial calipers, where I could, to get the various dimensions and a tape measure to get the rest. As a side note you can see part of the broke block on the top of starter.
Last edited by dpsmps; Aug 29, 2014 at 03:22 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I tend to believe what Paul Koerner, GM World Class Certified Service Technician has to say on the subject......"First, the fact that the short/long bolt starter is any less reliable is garbage. There is not one documented test that there has ever been an issue."
Want to read the whole story ?
http://www.thecorvettemechanic.com/f...arter-question
Long bolt or Short bolt...that is not the issue . It's the crappy design of the mounting boss on the block.
Want to read the whole story ?
http://www.thecorvettemechanic.com/f...arter-question
Long bolt or Short bolt...that is not the issue . It's the crappy design of the mounting boss on the block.
Last edited by SG Lou; Aug 30, 2014 at 12:16 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,491
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Read all I could on the subject. I came to the conclusion that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." That means, don't replace it unless you have issues.
In addition if your starter does fail, try to have it rebuilt as a new one might not fit properly. Also make sure all the bolts are properly torqued as this might be one of the consequences resulting in a broken block.
In addition if your starter does fail, try to have it rebuilt as a new one might not fit properly. Also make sure all the bolts are properly torqued as this might be one of the consequences resulting in a broken block.