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Today, after a few hours of tugging and unbolting and unclipping and double-checking (and maybe a curse word or ten) a friend and I managed to get my transmission and differential sitting by themselves on a transmission jack and an ATV lift together. I then unbolted the trans from the differential (2 bolts, 2 nuts) and can only pull it apart just enough to barely see light in between? After some frustration, I sent my friend home to get some sleep and I hit the shower; can anybody tell me what I am missing?
Yep - just pulled mine off this weekend to ship to a buyer. That nut is hidden in the bottom center in a little recess. Once you have that removed, the diff slides right off.
You're missing the 3rd nut. It's on the bottom. Likely can't get to it because of the jack..
Good luck with your project
Originally Posted by Patches
Yep - just pulled mine off this weekend to ship to a buyer. That nut is hidden in the bottom center in a little recess. Once you have that removed, the diff slides right off.
That nut was a bastard... Whose idea was that??? I had access to it since I used a trans jack AND an ATV lift, but that little sucker was hidden!
Thanks gentlemen
The diff looks weird to me, when I get a second I'll post up a pic and a question... looks broken but there's no piece I can find and it worked fine when I broke the trans (1st, 2nd, 5th, 6th, and reverse all worked with no bind or noise)
It appears as though the lower right portion of the window is broken, but I don't see any debris or anything and there were no differential issues when I parked the car. Is this just sloppy cleanup work on as-cast slag or does anybody have input?
Also, I can't seems to remove the linkage on the transmission end; there appears to be an Allen screw holding it on but none of mine fit, and I can't see well enough to figure out if maybe it's a torx or square drive or something. Thanks for any input
Hi
Hope someone can help ya on the casing , not sure but think it should be like that ?
The black linkage bar has a tiny roll pin going through the trans shaft.
I used a very small punch , tap out with hammer . PITA when its all still in the car ,but yours should be a lot easier .
Originally Posted by bumble-z
Not to worry...that (window) section that looks to be broken is the way the casings are.
Thanks again guys! Makes sense it'd be a pin, I didn't try that. That casting is bull; when I worked in machining, letting something leave looking like that would've been unsatisfactory. Oh well, I appreciate the help. Now to drain fluids and ship the trans
At the time, it was @ 580RWHP (Mustang), and it was just a quick shift to third gear that did the damage. Street tires, (Invos) and not even a power shift. The car has never been raced, or even done so much as a burn out.
At the time, it was @ 580RWHP (Mustang), and it was just a quick shift to third gear that did the damage. Street tires, (Invos) and not even a power shift. The car has never been raced, or even done so much as a burn out.
Wow! What the hell? Invos don't even hook that well...
Wow! What the hell? Invos don't even hook that well...
True, but at the time, my diff wasn't braced, and it doesn't take much to break a stock one. It was the casing that broke, and now I have both the ECS brace, and the Pfadt one. Not to mention a built diff.
True, but at the time, my diff wasn't braced, and it doesn't take much to break a stock one. It was the casing that broke, and now I have both the ECS brace, and the Pfadt one. Not to mention a built diff.