Draw on battery, need help
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Draw on battery, need help
I get .1 Amp draw on the engine fuse block with everything in sleep mode. I pulled all fuses and relays and couldn't get it to drop off.
Any Ideas?
I figured out passenger fuse block draw.
.22 on the passenger fuse block with radar detector plugged in and powered off.
Tried unplugging it and it makes no difference until 15 minutes, then it drops to .02 (only with radar unplugged, stays at .22 with it in)
Radar detector is plugged in with invisacord to the constant 12v on standard mirror. Guess my mirror doesn't have the switched source on it
Also I'm getting these codes
B2482 backup relay circuit
B0502 drl relay circuit
and B0507 drl relay circuit
My drl's only come on with my lights in the on position. Previous owner might have changed some wiring when the depo frog eye lights where installed. (I'll be installing some radioflyer flush fixed lights soon) My backup lights work fine.
Any Ideas?
I figured out passenger fuse block draw.
.22 on the passenger fuse block with radar detector plugged in and powered off.
Tried unplugging it and it makes no difference until 15 minutes, then it drops to .02 (only with radar unplugged, stays at .22 with it in)
Radar detector is plugged in with invisacord to the constant 12v on standard mirror. Guess my mirror doesn't have the switched source on it
Also I'm getting these codes
B2482 backup relay circuit
B0502 drl relay circuit
and B0507 drl relay circuit
My drl's only come on with my lights in the on position. Previous owner might have changed some wiring when the depo frog eye lights where installed. (I'll be installing some radioflyer flush fixed lights soon) My backup lights work fine.
Last edited by adamgl; Apr 11, 2014 at 08:24 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
Walk me through how you monitored the drain. Are you saying you have .1 amps to the engine fuse box and .22 max to the I/P fuse box? If this was true the total should be .32 max combined. You might want to PM me with your phone number so we can discuss.
Not sure why a plugged in detector which is off should draw any current.
Also just noticed you seem to have a 2006. That is fine, I just don't have a C6 FSM but I can still work with you.
Also are those codes H or C? Clear the codes and recheck. Need you to check by running the engine and exercising the DRL and backup light circuits and pulling the codes while the key is still ON, NOT OFF.
Not sure why a plugged in detector which is off should draw any current.
Also just noticed you seem to have a 2006. That is fine, I just don't have a C6 FSM but I can still work with you.
Also are those codes H or C? Clear the codes and recheck. Need you to check by running the engine and exercising the DRL and backup light circuits and pulling the codes while the key is still ON, NOT OFF.
Last edited by dadaroo; Apr 13, 2014 at 09:30 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
The car with the problem is a C5 2000 FRC with standard mirror.
Yes I get around .32A total with radar plugged in and off.
.1 amp on the engine fuse block with it isolated. Couldn't get it to go away by pulling fuses or relays.
And .22A to the passenger fuse box with it isolated. I can get it to drop off by pulling the #37 relay, Monitored (Inadvertent) Load Control. Or by unplugging radar detector and waiting 10 - 15 minutes. Seems to never go fully to sleep with radar detector plugged in and off.
I've reset the codes and they keep coming back. I'll try to reset and check with key still on.
My DRL's only come on with the lights on in the 1st position, or headlights on. And fog lights with its button only works with headlights on. I assume normally it should work independent. I don't know what might have been changed in the wiring. And if that could be the source of some of the draw.
Yes I get around .32A total with radar plugged in and off.
.1 amp on the engine fuse block with it isolated. Couldn't get it to go away by pulling fuses or relays.
And .22A to the passenger fuse box with it isolated. I can get it to drop off by pulling the #37 relay, Monitored (Inadvertent) Load Control. Or by unplugging radar detector and waiting 10 - 15 minutes. Seems to never go fully to sleep with radar detector plugged in and off.
I've reset the codes and they keep coming back. I'll try to reset and check with key still on.
My DRL's only come on with the lights on in the 1st position, or headlights on. And fog lights with its button only works with headlights on. I assume normally it should work independent. I don't know what might have been changed in the wiring. And if that could be the source of some of the draw.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
.02 amps (20 milliamps) for the I/P seems normal since that is where the BCM is and the other modules that need to be powered for security.
Talk to the radar detector manufacturer, something is fubar with it or the design. You need to figure out if it is somehow your power connection causing a small short/circuit issue.
The engine fuse box does feed the I/P fuse box on a number of circuits like the DRL relays that are separate from the large red wire. Likewise the I/P fuse box does feed the engine fuse box on a number of circuits like the B/U lights.
Try reading the "total" drain using an amp meter on the negative side of the battery. Pull the two DRL relays in the I/P and the B/U relay in the engine fuse box and see what affect that has.
Talk to the radar detector manufacturer, something is fubar with it or the design. You need to figure out if it is somehow your power connection causing a small short/circuit issue.
The engine fuse box does feed the I/P fuse box on a number of circuits like the DRL relays that are separate from the large red wire. Likewise the I/P fuse box does feed the engine fuse box on a number of circuits like the B/U lights.
Try reading the "total" drain using an amp meter on the negative side of the battery. Pull the two DRL relays in the I/P and the B/U relay in the engine fuse box and see what affect that has.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Went out to test this and my batter was dead again. I had radar unplugged also, Sat for 3 days.
I'll test all this after I get some stock headlight wires in I need to finish Radioflyer light install.
Need to get the battery tested also.
I'll test all this after I get some stock headlight wires in I need to finish Radioflyer light install.
Need to get the battery tested also.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
If you charge a dead battery in the car DISCONNECT the negative cable first. Chargers produce DC square waves that can pound the electronics and damage them. A really dead battery cannot filter these. If a battery is just a little low there is no concern.
I would not be doing any mods in the middle of trying to solve a serious drain issue.
I would not be doing any mods in the middle of trying to solve a serious drain issue.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
If you charge a dead battery in the car DISCONNECT the negative cable first. Chargers produce DC square waves that can pound the electronics and damage them. A really dead battery cannot filter these. If a battery is just a little low there is no concern.
I would not be doing any mods in the middle of trying to solve a serious drain issue.
I would not be doing any mods in the middle of trying to solve a serious drain issue.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Ok, ignoring the radar detector thing for now. Pulled every relay out and nothing changed.
Then I found pulling big fuse 53 (in engine fuse block) gets rid of all the excess drain. .19 goes down to .02
fuse cover says it's abs elec
Now what should I do to try to fix it?
Then I found pulling big fuse 53 (in engine fuse block) gets rid of all the excess drain. .19 goes down to .02
fuse cover says it's abs elec
Now what should I do to try to fix it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
My 2001 owners manual shows fuse 53 is for RTD. However, my 2001 FSM says fuse 51 services RTD. Per the FSM fuse 51 is a 20 amp fuse. Of course my 2001 OM says fuse 51 is Blank.
I know there can be some anomalies since a friend with a 2001 has a different number for the rear defroster relay than my FSM shows.
What amp size is the fuse? My FSM says fuse 52 is for ABS and it is a 40 amp. Double check the fuse # also.
PS: Do you even have RTD?
I know there can be some anomalies since a friend with a 2001 has a different number for the rear defroster relay than my FSM shows.
What amp size is the fuse? My FSM says fuse 52 is for ABS and it is a 40 amp. Double check the fuse # also.
PS: Do you even have RTD?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Don't have the RTD. I think all FRC's have FE3. Isn't adjustable F45?
I'll look at my 2000 service manual I got yest. , and in owners manual on what the fuse does.
Think it was 20 amp and yellow. I'll look again tn.
I'll look at my 2000 service manual I got yest. , and in owners manual on what the fuse does.
Think it was 20 amp and yellow. I'll look again tn.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
Yes, F45 is Selective Ride (RTD).
If you are right and it is an ABS drain, I would suggest starting a new Thread and target the issue more specifically. I would like to get some eyes on this.
Let's try to make sure it is the ABS first. We may need to disconnect the EBCM and reinstall the fuse and see if that helps ID the circuit. Of course you could have a short in the power feed but I don't think so.
If you are right and it is an ABS drain, I would suggest starting a new Thread and target the issue more specifically. I would like to get some eyes on this.
Let's try to make sure it is the ABS first. We may need to disconnect the EBCM and reinstall the fuse and see if that helps ID the circuit. Of course you could have a short in the power feed but I don't think so.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
OK we know what circuit it is now. We can try and see if you have a wiring short to ground but I don't think so.
You still have no codes correct?
Why don't you go out and do some HARD braking and exercise the ABS system.
Highly likely if that does not clear it you have an internal issue in the EBCM. I do have a link on relay replacement in case that is it. Too bad you have the earlier version. Should explain why my 2001 FSM was different.
You still have no codes correct?
Why don't you go out and do some HARD braking and exercise the ABS system.
Highly likely if that does not clear it you have an internal issue in the EBCM. I do have a link on relay replacement in case that is it. Too bad you have the earlier version. Should explain why my 2001 FSM was different.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
B2482 backup relay circuit
Comes back as soon as I clear it.
B0502 drl relay circuit
and B0507 drl relay circuit
Come on after I turn lights on.
Those are the only codes.
Did some hard braking. Abs seemed to work. And no codes came up.
Comes back as soon as I clear it.
B0502 drl relay circuit
and B0507 drl relay circuit
Come on after I turn lights on.
Those are the only codes.
Did some hard braking. Abs seemed to work. And no codes came up.