Harmonic Balancer Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
Harmonic Balancer Question
I am one of the many who experienced balancer wobble. Mine was the rubber was coming out so before it failed I decide to change it. Info from the forum led me to a powerbond SPI balancer. No where like the stock one. I followed the book and marked the balancer an crank prior to removal. But to my surprise the new balancer didn't have any holes or places to add weights. I didn't have a reference to install the new balancer so my question is; Will my engine now vibrate? I installed the new balancer per the book but just picked a spot an installed it. OBTW I also changed the front seal both tensioners an pulleys just because I had easy access. I hope I don't have to pull it all apart an do trial an error.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
You will be fine, assuming you installed it correctly as far as spacing on the crank and torque values (and that you used a new bolt, either stock or ARP). I have installed lots of these pullies over the years, stock and aftermarket, and never had one throw the engine balance off. The aftermarket pullies are zero-balanced.
Last edited by Patches; Apr 27, 2014 at 11:07 AM.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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check your factory balancer and see if it has any added weights on it... if it does take that off and put it on the new balancer and install it in the same orientation as the original balancer was... most of us seem to have internally balanced engines so if there are no weights on the factory balancer you can put the new one on in any spot... I did mine this way and had no issues
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
I heated up the core and put antiseize on crack. I ran it down until it stopped. I used a new ARP bolt and torqued it to 235 ft lbs. The belts and pulleys align and will complete the install this week. Too many honey doos to be stuck in the garage all weekend. Thanks for the reply..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
Manual Why? I ran the balancer down all way down, completed the job and all looked great. Do I need to get the front end aligned? I did not break the jam nuts on the tie rods but don't know if I rotated the tie rod end 360 degrees. Thanks for all your help.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
OK here's an update. Pulled the rack and HB and replace both pulleys and tensioners and front seal. Recommend doing it because you already there. Got a puller and remove the old balancer. replaced it with a SPI powerbond HB. Did not have a keying kit so I installed as the OEM manual. Replaced everything and finished the job. All went well. Glad I attempted it myself not too hard and very rewarding.
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I wouldn't worry about it, I moved my rack over to the side when I did my cam and haven't had it aligned since with no issues... as long as you didn't break the tie rod ends loose where they go into the rack I think you will be fine... I have no idea why the guy above asked if it was an auto or manual, I really don't think it matters unless he was going to give some advice about tightening the crank bolt
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
I wouldn't worry about it, I moved my rack over to the side when I did my cam and haven't had it aligned since with no issues... as long as you didn't break the tie rod ends loose where they go into the rack I think you will be fine... I have no idea why the guy above asked if it was an auto or manual, I really don't think it matters unless he was going to give some advice about tightening the crank bolt
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 33
From: Virginia Beach VA
yep.
I asked because only the LS engines for manual transmission vettes were taken through the post assembly, fine tune balance procedure, where weights were added to the flywheel, damper, or both, as needed. Engines used in vettes with automatic transmissions were not. The manual cars were more sensitive to harmonics from very slight engine imbalances. Even though the engines are balanced good enough for reliable engine operation, you could still sometimes feel vibrations. So they took these engines a step further and externally balanced them to an even lower imbalance tolerance.
If the OP had an automatic, it would be a moot point. Having said that, if he has everything back together, has run the engine or driven it, and doesn't feel any new vibrations in the car, he is fine. Most, if not all, of those aftermarket dampers don't even have the circumferential balance weight receptacle holes anyway.
If he ever changes his clutch and flywheel, he will want to pay more attention to any weights he might have in the stock flywheel.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
Its a manual, got it all together and it drove fine just around the hood. I'm taking it to work tomorrow and I'm confident it will be fine. Thanks guys. when I do the clutch I will be especially careful with the fly wheel. Hopefully not for awhile.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Morton illinois
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Do yourself a favor and buy a ATI balancer and forget the powerbond. After lots of research I decided to sell the one I just bought new. I spoke to Katech and they set me up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 1
From: Mechanicsville Md
Too late. Powerbond has good reviews. I don't race the car or drive it hard. I do at time get on it but not beat it. Everything installed better than they came apart. I'm happy. Thanks.