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how hard is it to change the clutch master cylinder. 99 frc and im narrowing down a problem that im having. im told its very simple but any input would help
It's not hard. There was a guide posted somewhere with pictures that I followed. It may have been the tick CMC installation guide. The most difficult part for me was the quick disconnect. I recommend using the proper tool for it. Even with it, it took me quite a while to disconnect the lines.
no that's what im doing next, then if that doesn't help then ill try that. ive changed tranny, shifter bushing and aligned the shifter. what makes me think it isn't the tranny is that when I did the shifter bushings the grinding moved from 2nd to 3rd. then after I aligned the shifter it shifts ok if I shift slowly. if I shift quickly then it still slightly grinds going into gears. if I downshift its a nightmare. so now its on to the amsoil fluid and then more if needed. just very frustrating. I purchased the car with 2nd gear going out. after a couple of years it finally went out. I replaced the tranny and 2 months later it starts all up again.
Hopefully the clutch master cylinder fixes it! Sounds like a pain to go through all that but I know how you feel. I recently had my transmission replaced.
Changing out the MC to address a grinding would indicate that you don't think the clutch is releasing fully. Is that the case? Is shifting unusually notchy? Does you car want to inch forward when you shift into gear?
im just wanting to replace it to rule it out. im really just doing process of elimination. Im told that if the master cylinder is bad then it wont go in first or reverse. well it easily goes it first and reverse, so if that's true then that negates me changing it. im just tired of it really.
im just wanting to replace it to rule it out. im really just doing process of elimination. Im told that if the master cylinder is bad then it wont go in first or reverse. well it easily goes it first and reverse, so if that's true then that negates me changing it. im just tired of it really.
If you have a disengagement problem it can be particularly difficult to shift into 1st or R from a dead stop. However disengagement problems can come from a variety of sources.
well shifting into first and reverse is easy. the only thing that I have noticed through the years that has changed is the pressure of the pedal. maybe its me being used to it? but I swear it was a whole lot stiffer when I bought it. its just the grinding and its aggravating.
by the way, thanks for all the input everyone.
just trying to diagnose a problem that seems to be hard to find
well shifting into first and reverse is easy. the only thing that I have noticed through the years that has changed is the pressure of the pedal. maybe its me being used to it? but I swear it was a whole lot stiffer when I bought it. its just the grinding and its aggravating.
by the way, thanks for all the input everyone.
just trying to diagnose a problem that seems to be hard to find
Is your clutch fluid clean? And does it stay clean if you swap the fluid or is it dirty again after a few days? If it gets dirty again pretty quickly, then go ahead and swap out the MC because the piston is packed with glop. But I doubt that's your problem because it doesn't sound like you're having issues with the clutch releasing fully.
And personally I would swap the tranny fluid before doing anything else. I was having an occasional grind on hard 3-4 shifts, and I switched over to Pennzoil Synchromesh at the recommendation of some here. The grind went away, and shifting overall is much improved.