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Rear Hatch release not working

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Old May 4, 2014 | 05:09 PM
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Default Rear Hatch release not working

Not sure where to look next, any help much appreciated..

99 hardtop, rear hatch not releasing with key fob or dash switch.

Checked relay and fuse 26, both good.

If I jump terminals 30 and 87 Simulating power to the relay coil the rear hatch solenoid activates and hatch opens so I'm assuming that side of the circuit is not the problem.

When the hatch is manually popped the "hatch open" warning on the DIC illuminates so that circuit is good.

Next I pulled the hatch release switch from the dash (no fog light option on car). The orange wire is hot with 12.4 volts and the black reads resistance of 2.7ohms (meter set to 20k scale) to ground not sure of that's the correct reading or not.

Also checked and cleaned the grounds on both sides behind the headlights on the frame rails based on other posts I've read on the forum.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

I'm hoping its not a BCM issue. All other electrical circuits in car work.

Thanks
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Old May 5, 2014 | 08:21 AM
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Not sure what checked relay means. Try swapping the relay with another one. If not the relay it could be the BCM or associated wiring.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Not sure what checked relay means. Try swapping the relay with another one. If not the relay it could be the BCM or associated wiring.
Exactly what I did, swapped out with known working relay with same result. Any suggestion where I might find the wiring schematic for the switch side of the circuit? I assume its the same for the FOB, even tried the trick of using the key in the drivers door and turn towards front 3 times, same result so problem must be somewhere on a common circuit between, switch, fob and key in driver door.

Thanks
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Old May 5, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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The FOB interacts with the BCM via the serial bus for the trunk. The trunk switch has the ground side go to the BCM which then interacts internally to ground a separate circuit to activate/ground the relay 39 coil.

The serial bus input activates the same internal BCM circuit to activate/ground relay 39.

I think the BCM is the issue, or you have an issue in the wiring from the BCM to relay 39. This assumes you ARE getting voltage to relay 39.

The BCM interacts with relay 39 from Pin B9 in BCM connector C1, it is a Light Blue wire. This connector is the center one at the BCM. Here is the pin out.




I can scan the schematic later for you if you want it. If you want to avoid replacing the BCM or trying to fix it now, you could just temporarily take relay 39 to a switch to activate the trunk.

Please let me know if you need anything else. Mr. Sam

Also try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reboot the BCM. It's free. Also, if you don't know how to remove the pins from the connectors for testing circuits let me know.

Last edited by dadaroo; May 5, 2014 at 09:49 AM.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
The FOB interacts with the BCM via the serial bus for the trunk. The trunk switch has the ground side go to the BCM which then interacts internally to ground a separate circuit to activate/ground the relay 39 coil.

The serial bus input activates the same internal BCM circuit to activate/ground relay 39.

I think the BCM is the issue, or you have an issue in the wiring from the BCM to relay 39. This assumes you ARE getting voltage to relay 39.

The BCM interacts with relay 39 from Pin B9 in BCM connector C1, it is a Light Blue wire. This connector is the center one at the BCM. Here is the pin out.




I can scan the schematic later for you if you want it. If you want to avoid replacing the BCM or trying to fix it now, you could just temporarily take relay 39 to a switch to activate the trunk.

Please let me know if you need anything else. Mr. Sam

Also try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reboot the BCM. It's free. Also, if you don't know how to remove the pins from the connectors for testing circuits let me know.
Great information, Thank you, I'll do a little more sleuthing this afternoon based on what you have said. I'll let you know how things work out.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 11:07 AM
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If you want to discuss just PM me with your phone number. Talking instead of "texting" is typically better on issues like this.

Just thought about this: If you have another FOB see if you can get it to release the trunk. More info is better. I'll bet it does not work either, but it could.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Have you checked other fuses in the passenger foot well fuse box that provide power to various portions of the BCM?? There are several. Don't have access to my owners manual or fuse list or I would suggest some to check.
Great idea. I/P fuses 9, 13, 22, 23, and 25.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
If you want to discuss just PM me with your phone number. Talking instead of "texting" is typically better on issues like this.

Just thought about this: If you have another FOB see if you can get it to release the trunk. More info is better. I'll bet it does not work either, but it could.
Tried the other FOB same result. So based on the info you provided, I pulled connector c1, checked continuity between pin b9 and relay post 85, checked ok, just to be sure I grounded the light blue wire on pin b9 and the trunk solenoid activated. So connection from relay 39 and BCM is good and relay has power. I completely disconnected the BCM from the 3 connectors and noticed some light corrosion on the pins and connectors, cleaned all, reconnected and still no trunk release.

So I guess bad news is BCM?Name:  2014-05-06 5-6-14 004.jpg
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Old May 7, 2014 | 07:05 AM
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I would not replace the BCM until you check the other BCM related fuses from Post #8.

If it is the BCM it just might be the grounding relay which can be fixed. Cardone does rebuilds.
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Old May 7, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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You want to also make sure it isn't one of the lock-outs malfunctioning.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
You want to also make sure it isn't one of the lock-outs malfunctioning.
That is a valid point, here is what the OM says:

To use the hatch/trunk lid release on vehicles with an
automatic transmission, your vehicle must be in
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). For manual transmissions,
set the parking brake. See “Parking Brake” in the Index.

You can't find this info in the FSM and there is no direct input to the BCM.

I have a manual and I am curious if I can actually pop the trunk without setting the parking brake. Wish my car was at home.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Thanks Chuck, that is how I thought the manuals worked. Not sure if he has a manual or Auto. We'll have to wait for his response to that and checking the fuses for the BCM.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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Profile says 99 hardtop, yet text says "hatch won't release" not "trunk", guess it could go either way.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 07:17 AM
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I have stopped assuming based on my poor history. Also all the C5 design team talked about the C5 having a trunk.

I appreciate you two guys weighing in.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:44 PM
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Great thread. Fantastic trouble shooting advice !!
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Old May 9, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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My vert will not pop trunk unless ebrake is on on the 6 spd . If contact is bad at ebrake switch in tunnel area trunk will not open. Does ebrake light illuminates when ignition on and brake on? If not, that's your issue.
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Old May 10, 2014 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by T_Vert
My vert will not pop trunk unless ebrake is on on the 6 spd . If contact is bad at ebrake switch in tunnel area trunk will not open. Does ebrake light illuminates when ignition on and brake on? If not, that's your issue.
Thanks for the input. What year do you have?
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To Rear Hatch release not working

Old May 10, 2014 | 09:34 AM
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2000 I will be surprised if they changed the wiring on this throughout the years.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by T_Vert
2000 I will be surprised if they changed the wiring on this throughout the years.
It is not a wiring issue, it is internal to the BCM programming. I will check my 2001 the next time I go to my warehouse.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
It is not a wiring issue, it is internal to the BCM programming. I will check my 2001 the next time I go to my warehouse.
Been traveling for a week and just checking back in. Lots of terrific information. This is a 6 spd manual and I have now checked the fuses for the BCM as suggested and they are all good. Also ran through the handbrake/ignition key sequence and same result..nada, the brake light does illuminate when the handbrake is engaged. Based on what I've read here sounds like I have an internal problem somewhere in the BCM that is not grounding the circuit when it should.
At this point I'm inclined to go with the inexpensive fix you suggested.
If I re-route the light blue wire on connector c-1 directly to the dash trunk release switch will that work? I understand I will bypass the BCM completely and key fobs will not open trunk should I go this route and trunk will open anytime that switch is pushed, parked or moving.

I do not have the fog light option and the dash trunk switch has six wires; orange, orange/brown, yellow, black, brown and white.

Haven't checked yet but I assume the black is to ground so just need to figure out which of the other wires to splice into.

Does that sound like a workable solution?

Thanks again for all the great insight and advice.
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