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Another Torque Tube Question Thread!!!

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Old May 13, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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Default Another Torque Tube Question Thread!!!

OK, about to start my upgrades. Heads/Cam/Headers... But first off on the mod list is a new Monster Level 2 clutch. I had planned to just rebuild my 97' 10mm torque tube with 62K miles on it. But came across a brand new 12mm torque tube for a really good price. So here comes the questions!!!
The guy had it as a back up for his track C5. He bought it from someone else who told him it was brand new, never used. He has had it sitting is his garage since and can't confirm 100% if it's new or not.
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on it for $450 shipped hoping I don't have to rebuild it!!! If I do, well so be it. At least now I will have the 12mm model.
So my questions are on the model # for starters. I tried google and the forum but did not come up 100% positive that this IS the 12mm model. Pics below of TT label with model #

And when it arrives. What should I look for as far as telling if it is new or not? Should I break it apart to inspect the couplers and if so, will I need to replace the seals on the ends afterwards?
And if it is new. It could still be pretty old and although never used, could the couplers still be bad from age?
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Old May 13, 2014 | 01:29 PM
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Last edited by IRON MAIDEN; May 13, 2014 at 01:31 PM.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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I'm not 100% sure but I believe the 12mm shafts used a big snap ring to hold it in on the transmission side and the older tubes used a bunch of bolts around the perimeter instead of the snap ring... I would open it up just to inspect the couplers and bearings just for peace of mind and if they look good and you wanted to keep the factory stuff and not upgrade then just put it back together and run it as is

Last edited by StingrayRebel; May 13, 2014 at 02:27 PM.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
I'm not 100% sure but I believe the 12mm shafts used a big snap ring to hold it in on the transmission side and the older tubes used a bunch of bolts around the perimeter instead of the snap ring... I would open it up just to inspect the couplers and bearings just for peace of mind and if they look good and you wanted to keep the factory stuff and not upgrade then just put it back together and run it as is
Are the gaskets that require replacing once its broken open? GM parts house quoted me a pair of gaskets when I hit them up for new couplers for my original tube.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
Are the gaskets that require replacing once its broken open? GM parts house quoted me a pair of gaskets when I hit them up for new couplers for my original tube.
I have no idea what they are talking about... there were no gaskets anywhere in mine and no fluid to leak out for that matter lol
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Old May 13, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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just found a pic of my torque tube from when I did my clutch and it is indeed the same #, 12564457 so you should have the 12mm tube
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Old May 13, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Need 1 big snap ring pliers. It can be done with muscles & a needle nose. Then it just pushes out back end.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 01:27 AM
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Here is what I was quoted. I did not look at the schematic to see what the front and rear seals are. No part #s were given.

Parts list:
10mm GM Tq Tube couplers(Guibos) 159.98ea
Tq Tube front seal 6.22
Tq Tube rear seal 6.22
LS6 valley cover gasket 20.30
Center bolt valve cover gaskets 17.62 ea
Timing cover gasket with crank seal 19.16 seal 20.68 gasket
Water pump gaskets (new style) will these work with my pump? 4.50 ea yes they will
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Old May 14, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
just found a pic of my torque tube from when I did my clutch and it is indeed the same #, 12564457 so you should have the 12mm tube
12mm bolts
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Old May 14, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
Here is what I was quoted. I did not look at the schematic to see what the front and rear seals are. No part #s were given.

Parts list:
10mm GM Tq Tube couplers(Guibos) 159.98ea
Tq Tube front seal 6.22
Tq Tube rear seal 6.22
LS6 valley cover gasket 20.30
Center bolt valve cover gaskets 17.62 ea
Timing cover gasket with crank seal 19.16 seal 20.68 gasket
Water pump gaskets (new style) will these work with my pump? 4.50 ea yes they will
Why were you quoted for 10mm couplers? Did you not let them know the couplers are for a 12mm propellor shaft? Did they just go by "year, make and model" and assume you had the early version?

The 12mm GM couplers carry part number 88894026 and are $136.86 ea at gmpartseast Other places may have them slightly cheaper but beware to look for higher shipping prices sometimes.

HTH
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Old May 14, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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That quote was for the couplers to rebuild my 10mm torque tube. I ended up buying the new 12mm torque tube shown above.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
That quote was for the couplers to rebuild my 10mm torque tube. I ended up buying the new 12mm torque tube shown above.
Kewl.

Not sure if you're aware, but the so-called "12 mm" torque tube has a larger diameter drive shaft as well. Stronger is always better.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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Yep. The main reason I made the move.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 01:46 AM
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You should open the Torque Tube and look at the couplers. Look for cracks around the bolt jackets (holes).



They aren't gaskets. They are O-rings. If you open the TT, you should replace the O-rings. There is one in the front of the TT and two in the rear bearing housing.




I just rebuilt mine two weeks ago. I replaced the couplers, the O-rings, the bearings (3), the slinger washer, and one of the snap rings. If you remove the slinger washer you will need to replace it. It's not a bad idea to get spare snap rings in case you bend one.

Remember the drive shafts are balanced and need to be reassembled with the parts in the same order. I put my bolts back where I got them from, though most will arguably say the bolt positions don't matter.

The couplers are directional so pay attention to the orientation if replacing them.

I think parts on my TT were around $635 from GM partshouse, not including shipping. I normally buy my parts from a local vendor at wholesale (which is essentially what Gene does for everyone here, you just have to add in the shipping to his dealership to the costs of some items). Rebuild took half a day going slow. You need a press if you are doing the bearings.

Also, if you are doing the clutch / driveline, you should probably do the rear main seal and the rear cover gasket.

I have all the part numbers for the 10mm bolt TT.

Lastly, early TT's, pre-2000 possibly, were held together with bolts, mine had the big snap ring. I used regular snap ring pliers and a screwdriver to get the 5" snap ring out.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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Help with this torque tube purchase!!!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1586948199
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Old May 21, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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I thought the 10mm torque tube had the snap ring and the 12mm torque tube has the bolts....
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Old May 22, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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Just got some pics of the other tube he has. Says it's out of an 04' Z06. He is going to remove the bellhousing and slave then send me another photo. Does it look like it's missing anything on the trans end? I'm switching from an early 10mm tube to a 12mm so I need to make sure I have everything I need.






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Old May 22, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Question, was anything missing on the trans end of the first tube I was sent that I will need? This one looks the same, not sure if it is missing anything.
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