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Torque Tube Expert Help Needed!!!!!

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Old May 22, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #21  
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For whatever reason I can't post pics of the trans end as the photo is too large. I resize it on photobucket and repost and it is the same large pic???
Either way, it looks the same as the one above. Was anything missing on that one?
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Old May 22, 2014 | 03:16 PM
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I use irfanView to resize and edit photos it's a free program
http://www.irfanview.com/
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Old May 22, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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The car was rolled, as in crashed? I'd be wary of that one being bent.

FYI, you can take the input shaft from your torque tube and drill and re-tap the 3 threaded holes for the larger bolts to use the 12mm coupler.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HardcoreABN
my 2000 has the snap ring, and I got a replacement snap ring for a 2000 from the GM Parts dept here. The 12mm did not come in the '00....
I think the 12mm was 01 on.

I bought an 01 for my A4 thinking it had the 12 mm boats. $125.
So I put it in. W/O checking the couplers. That was a mistake. And when I ordered couplers from ROM I found out no 12mm for the A4.
It is supposed to have the bigger shaft. I guess I'll find out!
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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:44 PM
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That looks like the bell housing side of the TT. You can see the slave connector. The trans is on the other side. The input shaft is present.

I'd be wary from this seller since there is no way he could justify to me how he was missing major components of the last TT "accidentally."
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Old May 24, 2014 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokin Joe
That looks like the bell housing side of the TT. You can see the slave connector. The trans is on the other side. The input shaft is present.

I'd be wary from this seller since there is no way he could justify to me how he was missing major components of the last TT "accidentally."
If you read my post above, I said I couldn't post a photo of the trans side because the pic is too large. But looks like the first set of pics I posted.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 01:46 PM
  #27  
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As I have never had a complete torque tube out of a car in front of me, can someone tell me if you can spin the driveline freely by the input shaft? I would assume so but thought I would ask. Seems like you would be able to spin it and feel no restrictions or rubbing as long as the bearings are still good and the propshaft isn't bent so that the snubber isn't rubbing on the inside of the tube.
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Old May 25, 2014 | 01:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
As I have never had a complete torque tube out of a car in front of me, can someone tell me if you can spin the driveline freely by the input shaft? I would assume so but thought I would ask. Seems like you would be able to spin it and feel no restrictions or rubbing as long as the bearings are still good and the propshaft isn't bent so that the snubber isn't rubbing on the inside of the tube.
yes you can.
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #29  
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Update. The seller shipped me another tube. Looks to be in great shape. Bearings look good and the shaft spins very smooth with no resistance or other issues. No play whatsoever. I will still break it open to inspect and replace the bushings. But am no in good shape ;-)
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #30  
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Couple questions on this new tube. For starters, WTF snap ring pliers do I need! Is there a size I look for or are they just considered HD snap ring pliers?
I plan to get new GM couplers regardless of the condition of the couplers in there just to have the piece of mind. I will also order up the 3 O-rings.
Bearings spin nice and smooth with no play at all. Contemplating just leaving them rather than going through the expense of replacing them.
Anything else I should look at?
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 02:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by IRON MAIDEN
Couple questions on this new tube. For starters, WTF snap ring pliers do I need! Is there a size I look for or are they just considered HD snap ring pliers?
I plan to get new GM couplers regardless of the condition of the couplers in there just to have the piece of mind. I will also order up the 3 O-rings.
Bearings spin nice and smooth with no play at all. Contemplating just leaving them rather than going through the expense of replacing them.
Anything else I should look at?
i've never seen the bearings in one of those. normally, with age, grease is the only problem bearings have if they don't have wear. i've always revived old bearings by using brake clean and re packing. with the torque tube i would want to make sure the correct spec grease was used

they rolling needle bearings?

are they even possible to re grease?
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 04:33 PM
  #32  
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They are sealed pressed on bearings. No repacking.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:38 AM
  #33  
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you sound good. I used regular sized snap ring pliers and had a friend stick a flat head screw driver in between the snap ring and the TT. It was hard to do but doable. Super big snap ring pliers would make it easier.

Can't grease the bearings in there.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #34  
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Well, got that damn snap ring out! What a b!tch. Bought the biggest ones at Harbor Freight. Took skilled squeezing and someone else to flip an end out of the groove and secure it. Had my son helping me so that was good. I slipped a small socket extension under the snap rind end and positioned the tube so that when I pry'd on the ring, the socket extension would drop on it's own behind it. Made it easy like opening a can.
Tools needed!




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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #35  
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Congrats . More pics on your project.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #36  
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Bushings are like new. I'm gonna save the $ on new couplers and roll it into the Tune costs! I may always wonder if I made a mistake, but they look to be in perfect condition.





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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #37  
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I found the Snap-On PR7 snap ring plier worked PERFECT for that monster snap ring

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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #38  
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You sure those are better than these beefy Harbor Freight units I picked up today??? lol
I sure could of had a better experience today using those! And note to the next guy doing this. Tape off the bellhousing edge! That razor edge made quick work of the back of my hands. The torque tube needed to be washed afterward, not for the grease, for the blood! The hands of Mr. Goodwrench!
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:18 PM
  #39  
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I was thinking of covering the topside of the tube with Damplifier Pro(sound deadener). I remember reading to apply some to the top of the tube when swapping in a short throw shifter. I'm thinking since it's out, might as well cover the entire topside.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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I love the locking feature of them...took all of 3 secs to get it in once I had it flipped the right way lol. My tool box might revolt if I put harbor freight tools in it haha.
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