Rapid turn signal?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Janesville WI
Rapid turn signal?
Just got back from a 2,500 mile road trip with the Vette to the Black Hills. The car ran great the entire trip, but one afternoon when I activated the left turn signal, it "clicked" really fast compared to the right one. I checked outside and found that the front left turn signal was out (the left rear worked fine). So, I figured the rapid clicking was just an indicator of a burned out bulb and figured I would replace it when I got back.
About half an hour later, the signal indicator went back to normal speed and, sure enough, the front left turn signal now worked fine. It has worked fine ever since.
Was the rapid clicking a sign I had the light out? And, what would make it essentially fix itself? Maybe a stuck relay or something? Thoughts?
TIA,
Jeff
About half an hour later, the signal indicator went back to normal speed and, sure enough, the front left turn signal now worked fine. It has worked fine ever since.
Was the rapid clicking a sign I had the light out? And, what would make it essentially fix itself? Maybe a stuck relay or something? Thoughts?
TIA,
Jeff
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Alpine TX
You need to pull the bulb out and clean the connection. I like to use a bit of di-electric grase on the bases of mine. It probably lost contact due to corrosion or a worn out bulb holder.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Janesville WI
You need to pull the bulb out and clean the connection. I like to use a bit of di-electric grase on the bases of mine. It probably lost contact due to corrosion or a worn out bulb holder.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
Jeff
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Im not sure how it fixed itself, but yes, all modern cars do the rapid blinking when the bulb is out, or about to go out in some cases. Seen it in Mitsubishi's, Mercedes, Chevys, Fords, you name it. Its a nice feature.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 108
Likes: 2
From: Punta Gorda FL
You need to pull the bulb out and clean the connection. I like to use a bit of di-electric grase on the bases of mine. It probably lost contact due to corrosion or a worn out bulb holder.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
The rapid blinking is a result of lower amp draw across the flasher. This is normal. If you were to install led bulbs, it would flash fast also because they don't pull enough amps. You can correct it by installing a flasher made for led's.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 301
From: Columbia SC
It is common for the heat in the front signals/DRLs to burn a hole in the housing and let water in. That can lead to degrading the socket and connections and cause exactly what you have experienced.
Related info:
Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It is used to help keep moisture out of electrical connections/etc. It is NOT to be used directly on actual contacts such that the grease is in the current path. Around the current path is fine.
Related info:
Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It is used to help keep moisture out of electrical connections/etc. It is NOT to be used directly on actual contacts such that the grease is in the current path. Around the current path is fine.
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Alpine TX
It is common for the heat in the front signals/DRLs to burn a hole in the housing and let water in. That can lead to degrading the socket and connections and cause exactly what you have experienced.
Related info:
Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It is used to help keep moisture out of electrical connections/etc. It is NOT to be used directly on actual contacts such that the grease is in the current path. Around the current path is fine.
Related info:
Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It is used to help keep moisture out of electrical connections/etc. It is NOT to be used directly on actual contacts such that the grease is in the current path. Around the current path is fine.
I will admit that I have not done this to my Vette because it is so new to me. I'm just taking about other vehicles I own. Whenever I remove a bulb, I use a dab as mentioned. I've had some bulbs need to be removed with needle nosed plyers because of corrosion on the base of the bulb. The grease seems to lubricate and prevent moisture, so I like it, and have never had any negative results from it.
It sure does make the rubber around the windows look like new... I learned that on the forum here.
