To start my car right now, I have to pump the gas pedal just a bit for it to fire up half the time.

Once it fires, it runs for a few seconds and begins to settle towards idle before completely dying.

Recent background: Car ran 100% fine as my daily until I had my clutch replaced. As you know, the headers and full exhaust, floor tunnel, entire rear cradle and power tube come out. During the work, they did happen to break my coolant Temp sensor, one spark plug, and kink both rear brake lines. Everything is replaced. And they tossed in new NGK TR5 plugs for me.

All electrical connections reachable when you pop the hood are secure. All fluids topped and fresh.

Right now I am at a loss as to why this is happening. Definitely open to suggestions and postulation.

Side note -- until I tried the "give it gas" idea, it simply wouldn't start... just turn over. When I DID have it running earlier today it would drive fine while in motion, but going to neutral would see the RPM drop to 500.... 300... sputter.... slowly climb to 500 again and then 650.

I've already checked a lot. My next thoughts are: replace plugs again to factory temp, check starter solenoid connections, and then start thinking about electrical issues with the fuel pumps perhaps.

 

Use the dic and pull the codes. This link describes how: http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm Post the complete code and the module it is associated with. This may provide a clue and eliminate some of possibilities.

 

Did that yesterday, nothing earth shattering.

What I got tonight: basically saying that I pulled the battery at one point, plus the suspensions reminder
C1722 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM

Yesterday's codes from all winter... the brake 1255 lights off when I engage HID beams and voltage dips below 12v for a second. Plan was to rewire HIDs entirely separate from accessory power this week on vaca, but am dealing with this other problem instead now.

Yesterday's codes:
P0118 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor High Voltage (sensor was broken at shop that did the clutch)
P1571 ASR Desired Torque
C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction (SEE ABOVE)
C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
C1722 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1727 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1790 Ride Control Switch (Out of Range)
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2276 Door Lock Motor/Mirror Heater Fit
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM


Note - car came with F45. I bought it with Bilsteins installed as replacements. Never threw a code or issue until this winter. Will look into it.


When I went out to it just now in the dark, from a far angle I was able to see that someone at the shop must have flipped the lamp lights on. --- Could this all be due to a bad Red Top? Charged it from my Acura for about an hour and no dice tonight. Yet that sucker cranked the engine dozens of times yesterday. Go figure.

 

Hmm, just some ideas until someone else chimes in: check the ground on the engine block above the starter and make sure it's tight, check to make sure front o2 sensors aren't crossed. Sounds like possibly a ground or battery problem though because of the loss of communications issue. When I had this issue it ended up being a loose ground at the engine block

 

The battery had been running like a champ. Optima Red Top. Then today despite the engine having run enough to replenish lost charge from starting, it crapped out and wouldn't take a charge from my friend's car. So that one's getting swapped out in the morning.

Once that's done, next step is get it up in the air and check all the grounds fore and aft, psi at the fuel rail, go through all the fuses and keep digging.

The 1255 I refer to as not being the big deal is the one referring to the EBTCM, not the serial bus. I'm not versed yet on the serial bus and will search it. I disregarded most of the codes as being related to either me disconnecting and reconnecting the battery or the system recently realizing that the F45 is gone... which was never an issue in the past. To be honest, I'm not sure how the original owner spoofed the computer into thinking it was still active when the shocks are long gone.

 

Check that Temp senor yet?

 

Yes. No change from plugging in a new Temp sensor.

I'll be checking grounds and electrical system more closely today.

 

Go to Radio Shack get 4 10ohm resistors put one at each corner where the shocks used to plug in that will cure the problem of not having the F45 shocks

 

Smokn - that is awesome! Thanks. Beats heck out of going to a dealer and getting flossed for a Tech 2 programmer that only takes 20 minutes.


Update on car .... it is currently running. Starting fine this morning.

Changes I've made since last night? NONE.

I did yank the battery and have it tested. Produced 12v at shop. DIC only showed 11.6 and it wasn't cranking last night.

I managed to start it from cold, but had to dance on the gas pedal to get it there. THEN I had to hold throttle to about 2k for roughly a minute or two before I could let it go and have the car hold an idle. Right now I have it idling outside charging the battery.

Had swapped in a new alternator yesterday afternoon. DIC volts now read a steady 13.7 when in the past they had been about 12.4 so I think I'll keep the alternator. Will also rebuild the old one.

--- When I tried shutting the car off and restarting it a few times before coming inside here, I did notice that right after starting if I give a mild blip to 2,000 and let off, it does still stumble down to about 400 or 500 rpm and then raise up again.

Since it is running, I'm going to see if the shop will plug in and see if there's anything wonky with a sensor reading.

I am still at a loss on this one and guessing, as well as being wary of a repeat.

 

Latest:

-installed coolant sensor - this resolved the no start by about 70%

-checked battery twice today- Optima Red Top - store deems it good, but battery charger says it's about 60%.

-Can get the car started with some luck, BUT it will die instantly unless I keep the RPMs up over 2 to 3k and/or the car in motion.


If the battery is "good" but low on charge, and the alternator is new, but the system keeps failing if the rpm drops... definitely points to grounds and/or solenoid.

Now that I can at least MOVE the car, I can get a look under the skirt in the morning and verify wiring and grounds.

 

Long shot but do you see/feel any cracks at the rear of the intake manifold? Possibly from tilting the motor back too far? Very much a long shot but worth mentioning

 

Like a vacuum issue? I gave it only a quick look. Will report back if I notice anything.

 

with the voltage issues and some other electrical items in the codes, I wonder if you have a loose connection.?.?

 

Recommend you reset your codes and pull them again. Please be specific as requested by 8VETTE7 in Post #4.

PS: I would make sure the connections at the starter are good. Also look to make sure no wires are loose "in" the lugs even though the actual lugs may be tight. Seen this happen several times.

 

Had no time to get under the car last week, so I let it sit.

Jacked it up a few hours ago and think we found the source of the stalls in the ground to the driver's side of the block only had the nut on the end of the bolt - totally unsecured. Hence why it would sometimes run at idle and sometimes not at all. And potentially why it would start and idle, but then once moving not run or idle at all and begin to stall.

Have not road tested yet. Still on the jacks.

Also found:

Melted O2 wiring to front driver side O2... not melted all the way through yet so far as I can see, looks like just the black cover sheath, but will confirm.

Brake line flares they installed when they cut my brake lines don't allow the lines to sit tightly to the tunnel above driver O2, so they rest on top of the O2 sensor housing... on the wires themselves. So as the engine torsions the headers up and down along with it, these will press the wires into the sharp O2 housing and cut them.

Wire loom to unknown system(s) on driver side down near the header collector area and above the O2 sort of... is leaning on the header length-wise and beginning to melt the connector housing.

I will do what I can to correct these and get them moved to safe and secure areas tonight. Fun is!

And this was a local shop with a solid reputation for work among the GT-R folks. It took a HUGE leap of faith for me to have someone else do the clutch install in the first place. I did it because I just couldn't see myself managing it well on my own on low jack stands. Chose a shop I thought I could trust and while I DO know that accidents happen, I feel most of what has happened and what I have found is based more on them trying to rush the job out the door and a general approach which does not include checking their work.

With luck, the problems will be resolved tonight.