Burnt wire from alternator
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
Burnt wire from alternator
(I posted in stereo section also).
I posted about this several years ago, but I all but stopped driving the car. Now I'm doing a minor restoration and adding some things.
I want to properly address the problem.
The power wire going to the alternator is burnt. It is tightly fastened. The starter wires look rough also.
I have an aftermarket stereo system with a 500/5 amp and a navigation hu. I just installed Radio Flyer HID projectors, HID fog lights, and seat heaters. I have a brand new yellow top battery.
I was thinking of doing the Big 3 (as suggested by Bill Curlee and others).
Do I need a new alternator? If so, will a stock AC Delco suffice? Should I get a higher output alternator?
Do I need to repair the wires shown in the photos? What's the best way? Should I solder the crimp-connectors to the wires?
Thanks!
Starter:
I posted about this several years ago, but I all but stopped driving the car. Now I'm doing a minor restoration and adding some things.
I want to properly address the problem.
The power wire going to the alternator is burnt. It is tightly fastened. The starter wires look rough also.
I have an aftermarket stereo system with a 500/5 amp and a navigation hu. I just installed Radio Flyer HID projectors, HID fog lights, and seat heaters. I have a brand new yellow top battery.
I was thinking of doing the Big 3 (as suggested by Bill Curlee and others).
Do I need a new alternator? If so, will a stock AC Delco suffice? Should I get a higher output alternator?
Do I need to repair the wires shown in the photos? What's the best way? Should I solder the crimp-connectors to the wires?
Thanks!
Starter:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
And you don't have a lot of alternators to choose from if your replace the stocker since it has to communicate with the ECM.
If you need all that power, you might want to do what the 4x4 crowd does, add a battery and alternator just for the high power accessories.
Last edited by 3boystoys; Jun 10, 2014 at 04:10 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
1. Detailed explanation.
2. Replacing alternator with a higher capacity one.
3. Loads above the design point.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
You really should either repair that wire or run a new wire and not use that old one. To properly repair it you'd need to cut back the damaged wire and then use a properly sized lug and good quality crimpers to install it.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
Be careful you don't create another problem trying to solve one. Check these postings from Evil-Twin on this matter. He gives a very detailed explanation on how this system works, and since the PCM controls and receives feedback from the alternator, anything that deviates from what it is expecting can set system faults.
1. Detailed explanation.
2. Replacing alternator with a higher capacity one.
3. Loads above the design point.
1. Detailed explanation.
2. Replacing alternator with a higher capacity one.
3. Loads above the design point.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
At the place I work we do 1000's of crimps a year on wire from about 16 gauge up to 250MCM. We never have any failures at the crimp. Use the proper lug for the wire and quality crimping equipment and the crimp is better than soldering. Every car on the road is running all crimps and no soldering and those crimp connections hold up very well overall.
Soldering is only useful if you don't have the proper crimpers. There is no excuse for a pro to not have the proper crimpers for the connectors they are using.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,328
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From: Western NY
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
My understanding from reading some articles on HID technology HID lights draw less current than standard halogen bulbs, overall. They do spike on initial startup, but draw less during operation. Needless the fogs and projectors are a new addition and would not have contributed to the problem. Bought the fogs so the lighting matched.
Also, I'm not a big stereo guy, but I don't think a 500 watt amp is that big reading from what the real stereo guys are putting in their cars. I installed the amp when an aftermarket head unit blew out the factory speakers. The wire started looking brittle before the stereo was installed, but was definitely worse after the fact.
I suppose I could do a load calc for a car just like you do for a house.
One thing that was mentioned when I first aired this topic was that not only could the alternator nut have been loose, but the lug could have been loose from the inside of the alternator housing, achieving the same result. Additionally, a failing battery could have caused a problem. Shortly after noticing the burnt wire, I had a red top battery completely fail and vent. It was super hot when I removed it from the car. Not sure which came first the chicken or the egg.
Thanks for the replies.
Also, I'm not a big stereo guy, but I don't think a 500 watt amp is that big reading from what the real stereo guys are putting in their cars. I installed the amp when an aftermarket head unit blew out the factory speakers. The wire started looking brittle before the stereo was installed, but was definitely worse after the fact.
I suppose I could do a load calc for a car just like you do for a house.
One thing that was mentioned when I first aired this topic was that not only could the alternator nut have been loose, but the lug could have been loose from the inside of the alternator housing, achieving the same result. Additionally, a failing battery could have caused a problem. Shortly after noticing the burnt wire, I had a red top battery completely fail and vent. It was super hot when I removed it from the car. Not sure which came first the chicken or the egg.
Thanks for the replies.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I don't think you have a load problem. The amp isn't a huge extra load unless you have the stereo cranked all the time. The HID's are similar to the halogens. The seat heaters are you biggest new load.
Like you, I'd also expect that damage to be from the nut being loose or the connection being dirty.
Like you, I'd also expect that damage to be from the nut being loose or the connection being dirty.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
I don't think you have a load problem. The amp isn't a huge extra load unless you have the stereo cranked all the time. The HID's are similar to the halogens. The seat heaters are you biggest new load.
Like you, I'd also expect that damage to be from the nut being loose or the connection being dirty.
Like you, I'd also expect that damage to be from the nut being loose or the connection being dirty.
I had autozone test it in the past after the first red top battery went. They said it was fine. I lost another red top after that (3 years), then just had another battery start to go. This last battery is most likely from repeated discharges with seldom use of the car.
The seat heaters are new and haven't run more than 5 minutes in a recent test.
Is there a way to test the peak load on the car. I can turn on all the electronics and see what it's pulling. Where would I tap in to measure?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 52
From: Arizona
Don't mean to hijack but quick question. I have a 99 FRC racecar. I don't care if I get a fault code at start up. I have a tested Valeo 14 V 145 A alternator. Can I run it without damaging any circuitry?
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,547
Likes: 896
From: Republic of Texas
I'm running a 1100w system off the factory alternator but have big 3 using KnuKoncepts 4awg wires. I also have a new yellow top. I would say the big 3 will solve your problem, but to be safe i would have the alternator checked out at your local auto parts store to make sure. I've considered a H/O alternator for my car, but I just don't draw enough power to justify it...even with the stereo cranked at night. Having every bulb in my car converted to LED helps with power draw at night.
Assuming the alternator is in good shape, you shouldn't need a H/O unit. Those are primarily for cars with MEGA stereos or trucks running winches or tons of off road lights.
Assuming the alternator is in good shape, you shouldn't need a H/O unit. Those are primarily for cars with MEGA stereos or trucks running winches or tons of off road lights.