C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open 6/12/14

Scenario:

I have a problem with the above code. I get 3 messages on my dash regarding 'Service Active Handling, Abs, etc." each time I start/shut off the car.
I have a number of auxiliary LED lights, all come off of the positive post of the battery. I HAD an inline fuse for that lead, which joined the ones mentioned next.
Two are wired to switches in the cigar lighter compartment, and another engine compartment (E/C) light is wired to a switch mounted in the battery compartment. One has an additional inline fuse.
I have 2 'bolt LED's" wired directly to the DRL's.
I have a '4-On' harness and OEM fog-lights wired into regular harness, both have been in place for 2 years and have had no problem.
I removed my old battery yesterday at the parts place I bought the new one.
When I inserted the new battery, I slipped and broke the switch for the E/C light. I immediately replaced it with a new one.
I MISTAKENLY attached the negative cable FIRST after securing the battery hold down clamp.
As I attached the positive cable I heard some 'sparking' and electrical sounding 'clicking' and my popup headlights went on. I stopped, looked everything over then installed the positive wire despite the headlights.
The normal headlight switch had no effect. I started moving some of the auxiliary wires and heard the clicking again and the headlights attempted to close. I was sure it was the faulty inline fuse line, because when I held it in a certain position, the H/L's would go down. I delayed attachment of the auxiliary line, since when it was detached, everything seemed normal.
I started the car and the 'Service....." warning came on. I figured I would wait to get home to address the problem.
At home, I pulled, then wrote down all of the codes. I then proceeded to clear them all except for c1214, which would not clear, and the messages still came on.
I've been all over the forum reading and re-reading every fix for this problem but I am suspicious of the coincidence that the occurred during a mundane battery replacement.
I re-installed my aux. Lights and the headlights started their dance again. I removed the wires (3) one by one from the switch, made contact with different combinations of the same and the headlights behaved themselves and that (E/C) switch is working properly.
Today I tried to follow some of the advice from the forum, and examined every fuse that could be attributed to the EBCM situation and they are all fine.
I hate to start pulling things apart when there could be something simple to fix this. I've seen many statements where the message will correct itself, and have had that happen before.
I sure could use some help.

 

if your car is an 01+ there is an easy fix for that code... basically you just remove the ebcm, open the case, resolder the relay contacts, reseal the case with silicone, and reinstall the ebcm... should only take a couple of hours, there is a big thread in this section outlining the fix... I had the same code pop up out of nowhere in the middle of a race and I successfully fixed it by resoldering the relay

 

easy fix you can send it out and have it done for 150 or DIY. Both are easy one is cheaper.

 

Thanks. It finally reset itself earlier today.

 

I hate to say it but it will return. I know because my did. Sent it off to be repaired and all is well.

 

the problem is there and can easily be fixed, I'd go ahead and knock it out... I would be willing to bet at least one and probably more of the solder contacts on the relay inside of your ebcm are broken

 

I was going to let this go but I still don't understand why someone prefaces a statement that they do not mean to insult and then goes on to insult anyway. 8vette7, you know NOTHING of my skills to judge what I can or cannot do. In fact, I cannot find anything in my original question to cause one to think that unless the fact that I was suspicious of a coincidental situation causing a problem that was not there. Did I make some mistakes? YES. Does it matter? NO. Since my first post it was explained to me that a variety of things, including the popup of the headlights could be avoided by my correctly following a procedure I forgot. Maybe instead of the painstaking detail I presented my question I should have just stated that "I installed a new battery and all heck broke loose". I'm sure that would have really helped diagnose the problem.
Btw, the lights came back on again, if it doesn't recorrect I will either fix it myself (I better be careful, I've only been using a soldering iron for 50 years) or send it out, which I may also screw up since I've only been using the mail for 60.

 

I put up with the 1214 codes off and on for a couple of years. In my case, I have limited soldering skills so I sent it off the ABSFixer on a Friday and got it back the following Wednesday. Problem solved.

Actually the only slight Pita was getting the 2 center screws back in due to the access and my clumsiness. The $150 to have it done was reasonable plus I had the surge protection added for additional peace of mind.

For sure if you know how to do this work do it yourself.

 

Thanks, as much as I hate looking at those lights, I'm going to wait it out for a few days, and if no change, I'll be pulling it and fixing it myself or sending to ABSFixer.

 

imo it's easier to get the torx screws out from under the car rather than bent over the engine bay... I drove mine up on ramps and used a 1/4" ratchet and extension on the top and lower screws and a torx t-handle works better for the center screws... the way the case is designed I couldn't get my 1/4" extension and socket into the recess in the case, the t-handle is slimmer and worked better for me

 

it's not going to go away man just get it fixed. You can still drive the car with the module out but what's the point on waiting? It's not going to just go away. It's not difficult here you go http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-fleabay.html

 

I probably wouldn't last long anyway. I noticed some instructions say to remove the air bridge and rad. cover. Is that necessary if one goes from the bottom?

 

all of a 5 min job I got mine from the bottom the second time

 

I was able to pull it from the top. No real issues getting the EBCM out. Just make sure you have the right torx screwdriver plus I used a torx 1/4" socket , a swivel , and 1/4"" socket screwdriver. This really helped me get the middle and lower 2 torx screws out.

When you go to reinstall it helped me to wrap the torx screw to the socket with electrical tape which prevented dropping it to the floor .

 

Fixed. Thanks all for the help!