2000 FRC

My car has died on me a few times in the past couple of weeks. The first time was at about 40 mph and the gauge needles drop and gauge lights went out. I stepped on the clutch and cranked it and it started immediately. I had the alternator tested after this and it tested good.

The next time, I moved it to the other side of the driveway and when I returned 20 minutes later to start it, it would not start. I wiggled the ground connector on top of the right frame rail and it started after that. That ground connected did have some blue-green corrosion on top of the metal ring. I removed the ground connector and it was full of grit, but not much corrosion. I lightly sanded and cleaned all contacts and reassembled.

I thought this may have been the problem, but it died again today. I stopped at a red light and the gauge cluster went dim and I felt the motor spin down. I tried starting it and it almost started, but would not. I tried starting it 4-5 more times during the next 4 minutes, but it would not start. The DIC flashed a quick message about "column lock", but it was too fast for me to read it all. There were also a few "low voltage" messages. The gauge cluster and DIC would illuminate when turning the key, but then go dark even while cranking. I took the key out and waited another couple of minutes, then it started. I drove the rest of the way to work and drove it back home 4 hours later without incident.

I did get one code via the DIC when I arrived at work. It's an H code so it may not be relevant.

60-IPC B0521 H

I do have a column lock bypass device installed. The battery was replaced about 4 months ago. I do have a V1, small aftermarket stereo system, and HID lights. All of it has worked fine for the last year.

I'm not sure what to try next and would like to know if anyone has had similar issues that they may have resolved.

Thanks

 

have you looked at the sticky thread up top regarding electrical issues?

 

I have looked at it, but have not had a chance to read through all of it. It is quite extensive and will take me a while to get through it. I thought I would post to see if anyone happened to read and say, "that's what mine was doing". I will keep reading the sticky.

 

First I would confirm that the battery is fully charged and holds a charge. It should also be load tested to verify that it is a good battery. When putting that battery or a new battery back in, be certain that the terminals and cable connectors are clean. I recommend using dielectric grease on all electrical connection surfaces especially grounds, to seal them and keep corrosion from returning.

Tighten the battery side terminals to 11 foot pounds.

Since you had one ground with minor corrosion showing, a good project would be to disassemble, clean and dielectric grease ALL grounds and ground packs. This should be done with the battery disconnected, so you may want to combine tasks.

If you then continue to experience a crank, no start and then a crank and start with no faults, or a crank and start with various faults including seemingly unrelated DIC warnings, or a crank, start with reduced power or badly running engine and or check engine light, I would suspect the ignition switch.

I replaced two ignition switches, two years apart and experienced most of the symptoms you describe.

 

I agree to look at the grounds. Remember though, that dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It is OK to use it "around/on" electrical connections like he said, just don't put it in the DIRECT path of current.

Look at the electrical sticky, with close attention to the ignition switch. Here is a jump start for guidance on ignition switch diagnostics:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html

PS: Sometimes people have loose/bad connections at the starter. That can reduce battery charging while you are driving. Here is the system design:

 

I checked the engine bay grounds and starter and everything looked good. I decided to pull the ignition switch and perform the ohm test on the contacts. Sure enough, two of them measured too much resistance. I pulled the green shroud that covers the contacts and found two burnt contacts. I sanded and cleaned them and it has started every time without any of the previous electrical quirks. Hopefully, that was the root of the problem and it does not die on me anymore.

Thank you to everyone that contributed to this thread and to Bill Curlee's information regarding the test and repair of the ignition switch.