When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is just the way it is with wide, low profile tires, and stiff suspensions. Did you get an alignment after lowering? Some companies offer a bump steer kit which may help. My C4 does it more than C5, same width front. When I went from 295 rear to 315 on C4, it increased a good bit. Always have to keep a good grip on wheel if on uneven roads.
I don't think the width of the tire is as important as the tire compound itself. I run Sumitomo HTZ 315/35/17 up front and my tramlining is basically non-existent. When I first bought the wheels (2nd hand) they had the same size tires but bald/ hard Kumho Victoracers on them and those tramlined BAD. Make sure that the alignment shop toes the front wheels IN a 1/16" not out. A car that has toe out will feel very darty, giving the impression that it is tramlining.
Toe out and mushy tires will tramline like crazy. Try bit of toe in in the front for the street and if you track the car you can turn some toe out for the track. I go from 1/8 of an inch of toe in on the street to 1/8 of an inch of toe out on the track. The car does tramline a bit in the toe out position, but it's a nonexistent at the street setting.
I have 275/30/19 fronts and my car drives fine. It takes a pretty bad street with large waves across the surface beat into it by the traffic before it pulls. The alignment is similar to the Pfadt street setup. About 0.4* camber all around and a little toe in. Equal side to side except for a little extra caster in the right front.
How many miles on the car? What kinda shape are your tie rod ends in? I drove my car for a week or so after the alignment shop pointed out that I had a bad rear tie rod. The car was all over the road. Tramlining can feel similar to bumpsteer, and loose tie rod ends can magnify any other variables like thrust from the rear tires, unevenly worn tires, etc. I'm not familiar with the tire brand you're using but certain tires absolutely tramline more than others. If you want to feel tramlining, try a Hoosier R6 or any slick/ autocross tire with a stiff sidewall...
In conclusion, tramlining is absolutely an issue which can be corrected.
How many miles on the car? What kinda shape are your tie rod ends in? I drove my car for a week or so after the alignment shop pointed out that I had a bad rear tie rod. The car was all over the road. Tramlining can feel similar to bumpsteer, and loose tie rod ends can magnify any other variables like thrust from the rear tires, unevenly worn tires, etc. I'm not familiar with the tire brand you're using but certain tires absolutely tramline more than others. If you want to feel tramlining, try a Hoosier R6 or any slick/ autocross tire with a stiff sidewall...
In conclusion, tramlining is absolutely an issue which can be corrected.
53k miles. Tie rods appear to be fine.
Trammeling is an issue, that's why I created this thread to see what others have done to address it.
Just an update on this. A bit more air in the tires (from 30 - 36 psi) and a little toe in on the front made it feel much better. Tramlining is 90% less than it was before.
I find the same with air pressure.
I've had 3 alignments done to fix the issue. Finally just told the guy to set it to Z06 specs.
He didn't.....but he did get it a lot better.
I have Z06 springs, Bilstien sports, C6 sway bars and new metal end links.
On any sort of rutted roads it's still a handful. And since Oregon allows studded tires in the winter, there are very few un-rutted highways.
I also have Continental DWS tires. And I think they contribute greatly to the issue. Sadly, costs too much to try a diff tire....
Not being much help I'm afraid, but I feel your pain. It sucks having this nice high powered cruiser that flat wears me out on any sort of long cruise.