HB Replacement....Time Frame Needed ?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
HB Replacement....Time Frame Needed ?
Guys,
I have noticed a oh so slight wobble so I think it's time to replace the harmonic balancer before bad stuff starts to happen.
I got the skills, that's not an issue. I got the tools, well most of them,and the Factory Service Manuals.
I have access to a lift at work and I also have 12 hrs in which to do it in...
( shhhhhhh, don't tell'em I'm doing it on Company time
)
Anyway, I know I'm gonna need a HB puller and Installer and a 250# Torque Wrench. Barring any unforeseen problems can it be done in the allotted time frame ?
Am I forgetting anything ? Anything else I can do while it's apart such as Seals, Gaskets, inning the HB, etc, etc. ?
Oh, one more thing ? Suggestions on a Balancer ? Not looking for anything fancy like under driver and such.
I have noticed a oh so slight wobble so I think it's time to replace the harmonic balancer before bad stuff starts to happen.
I got the skills, that's not an issue. I got the tools, well most of them,and the Factory Service Manuals.
I have access to a lift at work and I also have 12 hrs in which to do it in...
( shhhhhhh, don't tell'em I'm doing it on Company time
)Anyway, I know I'm gonna need a HB puller and Installer and a 250# Torque Wrench. Barring any unforeseen problems can it be done in the allotted time frame ?
Am I forgetting anything ? Anything else I can do while it's apart such as Seals, Gaskets, inning the HB, etc, etc. ?
Oh, one more thing ? Suggestions on a Balancer ? Not looking for anything fancy like under driver and such.
Last edited by SG Lou; Jul 17, 2014 at 01:40 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 356
Likes: 29
From: Orchard Park NY
Just did mine two weeks ago. Now taking into account i do this for a living so had the lift and all tools needed it took me just under two hours. Was not that bad to do if you have exp working on cars. Two steering rack lines are the worst part.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
" lift and all tools" I got, except HB Puller and Installer
So with me not ever doing this to a C5 I'm guessing maybe 3 to 4 hrs.
Now how about a replacement HB? Any Suggestions ?
Replace any Seals or Gaskets while it's apart ?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 620
Likes: 18
From: Travelers Rest, SC
I'd look into a Powerbond balancer, supposed to be a bit better quality than stock. Might also look into the Hawk balancer install tool, used one for my install during my heads/cam swap and made the job very very easy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I have a lot of experience and most of the tools, but the first time I did it I took my time and did it in a weekend (probably about 8 hrs working time). I could probably beat that the next time, but I know I could not keep up with IH8FORD's 2 hrs.
I used a Powerbond also. I also used an ARP bolt so it is reusable and torque to value, not like the OEM torque plus degrees one time use bolt.
I made my installer tool. It is just some metric all thread and some nuts and washers.
I used a Harbor Freight puller set. Three pullers for about $11 on sale. I think the middle size one worked.
If you have an automatic you will need to keep the motor from turning. There are several approaches, but most use some type of tool to lock the flywheel. If you have a 6 speed, you can put it in 6th gear and set the parking brake (mine is a 6 speed and that worked).
I would at least replace the seal around the balancer. If you take the front cover off, make sure to align the cover so the balancer seal is centered.
Pinning the balancer is a good idea especially if you are thinking about supercharging.
Good luck.
I used a Powerbond also. I also used an ARP bolt so it is reusable and torque to value, not like the OEM torque plus degrees one time use bolt.
I made my installer tool. It is just some metric all thread and some nuts and washers.
I used a Harbor Freight puller set. Three pullers for about $11 on sale. I think the middle size one worked.
If you have an automatic you will need to keep the motor from turning. There are several approaches, but most use some type of tool to lock the flywheel. If you have a 6 speed, you can put it in 6th gear and set the parking brake (mine is a 6 speed and that worked).
I would at least replace the seal around the balancer. If you take the front cover off, make sure to align the cover so the balancer seal is centered.
Pinning the balancer is a good idea especially if you are thinking about supercharging.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,315
Likes: 1,585
From: Western NY
I have the mechanical experience, and after a little shopping, had the LS specific tools. I don't have a lift, however, but I was able to support the car safely, about 20" off the floor.
Having said that, when I did the swap, I also pinned the crank, with the ATI fixture, as well as replaced the timing chain with an LS2 unit, since I went through all the work of removing the rack and damper. It took me about 12-14 hours (maybe a little more), but I was NOT rushing in any way, because I wanted to do it correctly....the FIRST time.
A couple of suggestions....loosen the screws at the front of the subframe, that secure the p/s lines. The added wiggle room that this will provide, will be really helpful in R&Ring the rack. Also, I strongly suggest replacing the O-rings that seal the p/s lines to the rack. No sense in having to open them up again, if the originals won't seal.
I went with the ATI damper and the ARP bolt.....and yes, I also used the Hawk installer and the Corvette Products (I think it's their name, they're a Forum supporter) tool to install the crank seal.
Good luck!
Having said that, when I did the swap, I also pinned the crank, with the ATI fixture, as well as replaced the timing chain with an LS2 unit, since I went through all the work of removing the rack and damper. It took me about 12-14 hours (maybe a little more), but I was NOT rushing in any way, because I wanted to do it correctly....the FIRST time.
A couple of suggestions....loosen the screws at the front of the subframe, that secure the p/s lines. The added wiggle room that this will provide, will be really helpful in R&Ring the rack. Also, I strongly suggest replacing the O-rings that seal the p/s lines to the rack. No sense in having to open them up again, if the originals won't seal.
I went with the ATI damper and the ARP bolt.....and yes, I also used the Hawk installer and the Corvette Products (I think it's their name, they're a Forum supporter) tool to install the crank seal.
Good luck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 832
Likes: 14
From: Lake Charles Louisiana
Moderate mechanical skills, less than moderate set of tools. Went all the way to a new oil pump while I was in there. And then everything new on the front of the engine. Timing chain. Edelbrock 2 piece cover, for cam swap later, water pump, all pulleys, alternator, all belts. No lift. Jacks and stands. ATI balancer with ARP bolt. Pinned the crank while in there. About 12 hours total with MANY breaks. If I had to do it again I could easily get that down to 6 hours maybe less.
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 18
From: NORTHPORT NY
I did my balancer 2 months ago took me 6 hrs ... the steering rack is the biggest pain, get a 18 mm crows foot flairnut wrench it will make the lines on the rack an easy job. I think you would be better off with a arp balancer bolt. if you want to borrow my wrench and install tool send me a pm.......
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 357
From: Northville, MI
It took me 3 hrs to do my first one and slightly over 2 hrs for the others I have done. Since the others were not on my car but friends, I had help on them. Use the SEARCH as there are many articles on how to do it. I had printed and studied them carefully before I did anything. Getting the right tools and having them in the right places helps. I also have a 90 deg drill and that greatly helps if you pin the crank. The hardest part was re-connecting a power steering line. The rest is just follow instruction. The more you remove the quicker it goes. You do not have to remove the PS rack but it give you more room. I did mine with the GM balancers but had a 50 to 1 wrench adapter to use so it was easy. Also I had the Kent Moore balancer lock to hold the motor...some 6 speed will not hold and turn the engine over for that last 10-15 deg of crank bolt rotation.