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Write up is great. Replaced the 3 relays and the door locks and mirror memory are working again. Ordered relays from Digi-Key fit perfect. Thanks.
Originally Posted by tommypenguin
Thanks a lot Sam for taking the time to talk to me on the phone this morning.
You pointed something interesting out in that one of the two relays for the power windows, that runs vertically has a different part number between the passenger and driver side.
The P/N on the driver side is: 09389689
The P/N on the passenger side is:09389699
The 3 relays running in parallel on both door modules have the same part number on both modules. I ordered 8 just in case I booger up one or a couple and/or ever needed to replace again in lieu of a different root cause that fried the relays.
My power windows are having no issues just the locks, however if they had, had issues I am not sure the swap test would work because the part number differs for the relays.
Below are pictures of the driver and passenger circuit board for reference...
Driver:
Passenger:
I have a cheap 8$ soldering iron and figured this would be a good time to invest in some soldering supplies as I have had the need to solder several times over the last year. I have ordered the following...
I purchased both the solder sucker and desoldering wick to try both and see what works better for me on the solder removal. Probably will be attempting this on Wednesday or Thursday.
If anyone would like me to take more pics of the circuit board or door while its disassembled I would be more than happy to.
Great thread and write up. I was able to replace the door lock/unlock relays in both doors.
Excellent to hear this helped you out.
This project kicked off my soldering skills 2 years ago, I have used the soldering skills I acquired from this so many times it's ridiculous. Fixed my EBTCM/ABS, Climate control Screen, Plasma TV, Microwave Turn Motor, Car Stereo, Etc, Etc.
Passenger side door wouldn't lock but would (stay) unlock. Replaced the relay and now good as new. Also replaced the window motor while I was in there since it made a horrible grinding sound.
Originally Posted by John350
Used small pin vise drill to clear solder restricted holes.
There's no need to drill the through holes as there's potential to damage the trace on the board which is a headache to repair in itself (if you're lucky). Good info otherwise.
If the relay is not going in, just "walk it in" by heating up the holes and putting light pressure on the relay.
Pro tip: Add solder to the joint before you attempt to desolder using a solder sucker helps tremendously.
I removed my two relays a little bit ago. Had the wife help, if you can get certain posts cleared pretty well, I found that gentle prying with a knife while heating made the job much easier. My solder sucker was mediocre, but it cleared important ones that allowed the prying to work very well. New parts come thursday.
Thanks guys. Picked up the relays from Digikey and just soldered them in. Works like brand new. Saved all that money from buying a new module. Once again thanks for the info and pictures. Peter D. 03 Convertible.
Last edited by peterd357; Nov 27, 2018 at 09:39 PM.
I know that the bottom two are the door lock relays from reading this thread but which one is for Locking and which is for unlocking?
Sorry if I’m not up to speed on the posting etiquette yet. I’m brand new here. 😬
My driver side door won’t lock but will unlock with the remote and door buttons.
I can hear a relay clicking in the door when I press the lock and unlock buttons so I’m also wondering if I’m actually having a relay issue or maybe the actuator itself is broken.
I know that the bottom two are the door lock relays from reading this thread but which one is for Locking and which is for unlocking?
Sorry if I’m not up to speed on the posting etiquette yet. I’m brand new here. 😬
My driver side door won’t lock but will unlock with the remote and door buttons.
I can hear a relay clicking in the door when I press the lock and unlock buttons so I’m also wondering if I’m actually having a relay issue or maybe the actuator itself is broken.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can recall which is which. Knowing what I know about gm soldering joints I would review them first and see if any of them look bad on the relays. If they did I would try hitting the relay soldering joints with additional solder and see if that fixes the problem. Then swap relays if necessary.