Recommendations on brake cooling
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 422
Likes: 3
From: Palatine IL
Recommendations on brake cooling
I have a 2000 that I'm about to install an A&A kit on so I'm probably going to need better cooling with the higher speeds at the track. I've had an early version of the DRM brake cooling duct extenders but they've been worn down by the tires on tight turns. I'm running 275R18 up front.
Any recommendations on brake cooling that will have minimum interference with the tires?
Any recommendations on brake cooling that will have minimum interference with the tires?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 13
From: West Deptford NJ
I have a 2000 that I'm about to install an A&A kit on so I'm probably going to need better cooling with the higher speeds at the track. I've had an early version of the DRM brake cooling duct extenders but they've been worn down by the tires on tight turns. I'm running 275R18 up front.
Any recommendations on brake cooling that will have minimum interference with the tires?
Any recommendations on brake cooling that will have minimum interference with the tires?
Brake pad research would probably be a lot more useful than better cooling ducts than DRM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 422
Likes: 3
From: Palatine IL
I usually run Hawk HP Plus or PFC 01 if I'm running race tires. Hava pad you recommend?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 13
From: West Deptford NJ
i was just trying to answer you with common sense based on what I have only read on other posts and provoke a thought process to your question. I have no place in making any recommendations.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 314
Likes: 61
You should do a search as there are a plethora of recommendations and ideas out there. However, I would say that with FI your speeds will need MUCH better pads than Hawk HP+. Those pads SUCK and will fade. Some groups have even gone so far as either outlawing them or strongly discouraging using them. They really are a beefed up street pad and you would be better with something like a Carbotech XP 8 or better pad. Cooling is a worthwhile effort but you should also upgrade your pistons on your calipers to SS instead of aluminum which will reduce heat transfer to your brake fluid. Obviously switch to Motul RBF 600 or Castrol SRF fluid as well. Check out the thread/sticky of "HPDE what I have learned" and it discusses all this.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 84
From: Darien IL
I don't have ducts, but have always run decent pads like XP12/10, DTC70/60 etc.
A few years ago I installed an AP T1 caliper kit on the front. The pads are way significantly cheaper and substantially thicker than the stock Corvette pads. I run the least expensive blank NAPA type rotors as I don't believe that any of the more expensive brands really last much longer before they crack.
With the new calipers I can pound on the brakes for 20 minute sessions at Blackhawk, Road America, GingerMan or Autobahn without any change in brake feel. Sometimes I don't even bleed brakes after an event.
From my experience, I would say that the order of importance would be calipers, pads and ducting last. If you can keep rotors from cooling too fast after coming off track, that is worth something. ie. don't park sideways to wind on a chilly day. That increases odds of cracking the windward side.
A few years ago I installed an AP T1 caliper kit on the front. The pads are way significantly cheaper and substantially thicker than the stock Corvette pads. I run the least expensive blank NAPA type rotors as I don't believe that any of the more expensive brands really last much longer before they crack.
With the new calipers I can pound on the brakes for 20 minute sessions at Blackhawk, Road America, GingerMan or Autobahn without any change in brake feel. Sometimes I don't even bleed brakes after an event.
From my experience, I would say that the order of importance would be calipers, pads and ducting last. If you can keep rotors from cooling too fast after coming off track, that is worth something. ie. don't park sideways to wind on a chilly day. That increases odds of cracking the windward side.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 50,281
Likes: 518
From: Cleveland OH
St. Jude Donor '11,'13
As far as cooling check here http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?...9f72d64300501d
Last edited by Carbotech Adam; Jul 29, 2014 at 10:18 AM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
First of all you need to start hanging out on the Autocross and Roadracing page in the general section. All of your questions about what to do with brakes and tracking have been answered over there numerous times.
While better pads will no doubt improve your brakes, you need a set of brake cooling ducts and a set of spindle ducts to get the air right on the rotors. Everything else is just wasting your time and effort. After a couple of track days of overheating uncooled brakes your calipers will spread and then you will have even more cost to fix it right.
There are plenty of how to threads on the autox and RR page covering brake upgrades, but just putting a set of pads on it isn't going to get it done. You really need to get the heat out of the brakes and that takes some cooling ducting.
While better pads will no doubt improve your brakes, you need a set of brake cooling ducts and a set of spindle ducts to get the air right on the rotors. Everything else is just wasting your time and effort. After a couple of track days of overheating uncooled brakes your calipers will spread and then you will have even more cost to fix it right.
There are plenty of how to threads on the autox and RR page covering brake upgrades, but just putting a set of pads on it isn't going to get it done. You really need to get the heat out of the brakes and that takes some cooling ducting.