I'm having issues with clutch engagement and need to pull the rear suspension and transaxle to get to it. I'd prefer to do this myself and don't have a lift.

For those of you that have done this in your own garage, I have a couple questions:

1. Did you use regular jack stands? Which ones?

2. How high did you need to lift the car to get proper clearance to drop everything?

3. Should I use something along with jackstands to get it lifted even higher, or is this not safe enough?

 

1. 6 ton
2. 18-20" from ground to the rocker jack points.
3. no need

This info is in the forums in the last month or 2. A search will get you a bunch of pics and more explanation.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~dopemaro/C5...ch_install.pdf

 

Thanks guys!

 

The instructions posted indicate that you should remove the tubing to the throttle body to avoid stressing them when the drivetrain is lowered from the chassis.

Is there anything additional that would be smart to remove when I have an A&A Vortech on the car?

 

I would make sure with the supercharger your hood is open as its possible, i guess, it could hit or rub the liner. The folks in the forced induction forum may have a specific response for you. I don't know that it matters. The FI car I have worked on we were always pulling the motor so the hood was off.

I didn't do anything with tubing to the throttle body, but only cause i never heard of that. Maybe i got lucky?

 

I used 3 ton jack stands placed on cinderblocks. It was rock solid compared to the jack stands sitting on the asphalt driveway as my jack stands will sink in a half inch or so in the asphalt when sitting for a while.

 

I bought 6 tons cause the base covers twice the area for tip resistance. Also cause they are tall enough i didnt have to mess around with putting them on something. There is a fair amount of wiggling stuff around that needs to happen. I just didn't feel comfortable with 3 tons. Have heard of other who have done it though.

I never considered putting jack stands on asphault, you are a more ballsy man than I am.

 

I've been working on this the past couple weeks when I find the time. The transaxle and torque are now ready to drop. I have a bottle jack on the way I'm going to use under the oil pan so the motor doesn't lean. I have a few questions on wiring and cables I should expect and look for when dropping everything. All of the how to articles I'm using are somewhat vague. I already have the cradle out.

What are the wires, brake lines, and cables I should look for specifically when dropping the assembly?

Rear brake lines (run up and over the transaxle, not mounted to it)
Trans temp sensor
Wire harness on diff
Separate brake line quick disconnect (have tool on the way)
Wire harness on top of torque tube
Random connectors on trans


Any insight on the specific stuff above I should be looking for? I'm looking for any input or advice you can give me when I go to drop it. I like being prepared.

Here is how it sits now, ready to drop!

 

I used an atv jack and lowered the whole rear assembly as one piece, it seems like less work than removing all of the suspension separately... keep an eye on the motor as you lower it to make sure it doesn't hit the firewall, I have aftermarket mounts and mine would barely budge so there was no risk of it getting close to hitting... you might also take your blower inlet pipe off along with the charge pipe going to the throttle body... there's no need to disconnect any brake lines... you did remove the shifter right?... lower it slowly and check all around the trans/diff area and you will start seeing all the plugs that need to come off along with the harness that runs along the torque tube, it is just pressed in slots and will pop right out... pay close attention to the shifter box area as it tends to snag onto the fuel lines

 

Cradle is already out, per my last post and picture. Everything already supported.

Just looking for specifics or a list of the wiring, connectors, and lines to watch for. Thanks!

 

Excellent write up. Memorize this article. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/2360443-extremely-long-with-pics-00-frc-corvette-clutch-and-shock-replacement.html

- remove entire shifter assembly. Too many things to catch on in the tunnel- and other things to pay attention to
- disconnect fuel line at firewall
- buy 4 x brake clips that secure rear lines to the rear cradle. Gm part # 10407022.
- ensure new pilot bearing is installed
- go slow
- new slave. I used camaro slave.
- possibly new master
- install remote bleed line. Tick performance
- new clutch complete (incl pressure plate). Luk worked great for me. 120000KMs so far on new clutch
- new bolts for flywheel
- mark orientation before pulling flywheel. Transfer old weights to new balanced clutch assy. This is to ensure new clutch is out of balance (to match your motor)
- be careful of rear crank thimble
-

 

When reassembling DO NOT forget to put back the wire clamp behind the driver rear wheel. This is the ground (10 mm bolt to that little stud) to your fuel pump. Don't ask me how I know when I forgot that little clamp, the wire goes unsupported then snaps off while you're driving effectively shutting off your car

 

Yikes! You're right, that sounds reasonably important.

Thanks for the info guys. Anything else you can think of, let me know. Going to compile a list of some of the tips and keep that with me during the install and make sure nothing is missed.

I'm waiting on the AC/Fuel Line disconnect tool, arrives Wednesday. Rick@RKT helped me out with an input shaft for the alignment (thanks!!). Coming together nicely.

Also going to get the flywheel turning tool. Can't decide on a bearing puller though, the quality ones are expensive. It was all pulled apart less than 1000mi ago when I had the motor built, so I assumed it will come apart easy.

 

The pilot bearing puller- can't you rent it at a local auto parts store? Unless you're going to be doing this often as a DIYer it's a better value to just rent at a local store. The "expansion" type bearing puller works better than the "expanding jaw" type. But if you just had it replaced only 1k miles ago, it should still be fine.

Let's see what else- I've done this operation twice but the last time was 8 years ago so I'm trying to remember. When dropping the trans assembly, try to take some measurements against some "fixed" points before pulling out the torque tube completely- upon reassembly if you don't get the angle of the trans/tube just right it's very difficult to "spear" the torque tube shaft into the center of the clutch disc.

Also, prepare for swearing if the clutch line does not disconnect. Also watch the fuel lines running down the tunnel- you may need to rotate the whole assembly to wiggle it out.

Oh yeah, you ARE changing the slave cylinder and adding a remote bleeder right?

Also- before you button everything up- turn on the car before putting the torque tube back in after you changed the clutch. You definitely want to check to make sure you don't have any vibration. I had my new clutch match balanced to the old and it vibrated but fortunately I got lucky and just cut off the weight the machine shop welded on and it wound up being OK. Huge sigh of relief there.

 

you can rent a blind hole puller from autozone if you don't want to buy one... instead of using an alignment tool I left the pressure plate slightly loose, marked the torque sequence on the plate, and installed the torque tube first then torqued the pressure plate through the inspection cover area, using a flywheel turner to rotate it as needed... I did it this way to make sure everything was perfectly centered... you might be able to install the new clutch with the bellhousing still attached to the engine... mine wouldn't clear because it has studs in the flywheel instead of bolts that my pressure plate had to clear and it just wouldn't fit... so I removed the bellhousing and installed the clutch and then the bellhousing wouldn't clear... had to take it all back off and leave the bellhousing in place but loose that way I could get the new clutch to fit then tightened the bellhousing... it was a total pain in the butt and took some trial and error but I know what to do next time if I have to

 

Took a good look from underneath, and I can see the fuel lines being a real pain. It has an aftermarket fuel setup with AN return lines. I can push them out of the way though, mostly. We'll see how it works out.

For now, I've removed the lower bellhousing cover...but obviously can't really see anything.

 

you can remove the shifter box and that will help a lot with clearance but I decided to leave mine in and work around it that way I didn't have to align the shifter/box after putting everything back in... your flywheel has studs on it like mine does so you're probably going to have to loosen the bellhousing to get the pressure plate off... don't totally remove the bellhousing just take the bolts out and pull it away from the mounting tabs but leave it in the tunnel and then bolt it back down after you get the new clutch in

 

OK, I'll keep that in mind when I get to it. The shifter box needs to be removed anyway, I'll be installing the new MGW unit when everything goes back in. I assumed I wouldn't be able to remove it with the torque tube still in place. If I can...I guess that problem is irrelevant?

 

yep you can get it out from inside the car through the console area, that will make it easier since you're installing the mgw unit anyway