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I'm having a hell of a time installing the front leaf spring. i can't get the rubber bushings to sit right. at least not to my liking. they stick out a lot towards the inside. I've tried using a jack to lift up the end but it hasn't been much use. any help will be much appreciated
"Now, tighten up the spring mounting bracket bolts a little at a time on each side and make sure spring is centered. The bushings will not be exactly dead center on in each spring mounting bracket, but you still need to ensure that the spring itself is centered on the car. Keep tightening these bolts until the bracket is totally bolted up, and then torque the bolts to 46 lb/ft."
"Now, tighten up the spring mounting bracket bolts a little at a time on each side and make sure spring is centered. The bushings will not be exactly dead center on in each spring mounting bracket, but you still need to ensure that the spring itself is centered on the car. Keep tightening these bolts until the bracket is totally bolted up, and then torque the bolts to 46 lb/ft."
I would not feel comfortable either. I would guess that as long as the spring is exactly centered that the bushings will settle in and conform to the new bracket position much like the bushings to adjust ride height.
Are you installing a spring from a different vehicle? Did you try moving the brackets from one side to the other?
Forum member Solofast seems to be pretty knowledgeable regarding suspension questions. Maybe you could PM him. Curious myself as I will be upgrading my FE1 suspension to an FE4 this winter.
As far as i can remember they belong to this car. leaf is dead center. i went ahead and torqued it down. crossing my fingers a catastrophe doesn't happen driving down the road
Originally Posted by jlaw1313@comcast.net
I would not feel comfortable either. I would guess that as long as the spring is exactly centered that the bushings will settle in and conform to the new bracket position much like the bushings to adjust ride height.
Are you installing a spring from a different vehicle? Did you try moving the brackets from one side to the other?
Forum member Solofast seems to be pretty knowledgeable regarding suspension questions. Maybe you could PM him. Curious myself as I will be upgrading my FE1 suspension to an FE4 this winter.
I think you made the right call. You would just assume that the front suspension is made to such strict specifications that there would be no variation in the location of the bushings and spring.
I recall there being a bump on the top and bottom of the spring bushing that matches to indents in the cradle and the retaining plates. So, if the bumps go into the indents then it's assembled correctly.
Drive it for a bit. Then get wheel ramps under the front tires. Jack the rear up too.
Loosen those spring brackets. I bet the spring pads go where they belong. The weight of the car will de arch the spring.
Ron
So without the weight of the car the spring arch will result in a lesser distance between the mounting pads. Makes sense. I will remember that this winter when I swap out FE1 springs for FE4. Thanks.
So without the weight of the car the spring arch will result in a lesser distance between the mounting pads. Makes sense. I will remember that this winter when I swap out FE1 springs for FE4. Thanks.
Just be prepared for a world of extra work following that LS1 guide. You can swap front springs by removing one wheel and 6 more bolts. With the car in the air about 2' or so, jack under the spring to take the weight off the lower a-arm and then pull the a-arm bolts at the cradle. Lower the jack while pulling out on the suspension to get the a-arm above the spring. Move the jack to the end of the spring so it's more secure before jacking it up again and removing the retaining plates and then dropping the jack and removing the spring.
Mark the cam washers on the control arm bolts before removing them so you get them installed in the same orientation so the alignment doesn't get messed-up to much and you can drive to an alignment shop once you've done the swap.
Just be prepared for a world of extra work following that LS1 guide. You can swap front springs by removing one wheel and 6 more bolts. With the car in the air about 2' or so, jack under the spring to take the weight off the lower a-arm and then pull the a-arm bolts at the cradle. Lower the jack while pulling out on the suspension to get the a-arm above the spring. Move the jack to the end of the spring so it's more secure before jacking it up again and removing the retaining plates and then dropping the jack and removing the spring.
Mark the cam washers on the control arm bolts before removing them so you get them installed in the same orientation so the alignment doesn't get messed-up to much and you can drive to an alignment shop once you've done the swap.
As far as i can remember they belong to this car. leaf is dead center. i went ahead and torqued it down. crossing my fingers a catastrophe doesn't happen driving down the road
I just started the install of a Z06 front spring as well. My spring bushings look very similar to your pics.The spring is also touching the oil pan.
I am going to complete the install without installing the mounting brackets, install the tires and drop on ramps. Hopefully the weight of the car helps remove the arch in the spring, as Ron suggested, so in will not touch the oil pan.
Any comments?
Jack both a-arms gently, once both sides are at full compression without lifting the car, gently raise and lower one side at a time. This worked for me and massaged the spring pads into position a little better. I then installed the spring brackets while both a- arms were jacked to full compression. I checked for oil pan clearence and found it to be OK at a close 3/16 inch. I also used a Teflon dry lubricant at the pad and lowering bolt locations.
Once the jacks were removed the spring did arch and returned to just touching the oil pan, this proved to me that there is some lateral movement at the spring pad bracket locations as well as the lowering bolt locations which has to happen as the a-arms move thru thier range of motion. As other Forum members have suggested install the spring centered at the pad locations and let the engineering do it's thing. A drive up on ramps without jacking the car after driving around to double check the seating of the spring pads can't hurt if it gives you peace of mind.
The Helms manual states the bracket bolts are a one time use. I reused mine with Blue Loctite.
Leaf spring installation HELP!!
