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Is there a good way to do this? On my chevy truck with the 5.3 LS1-based motor I've got plenty of clearance to get a socket on the crank bolt. In my '00 vert I've barely got enough clearance to get just the socket on the bolt but can't get it and the wrench or an extension on with it due to the steering rack being in the way.
You might have to do it from the bottom. Keep in mind that if you leave the plugs in you're going to need at least 70-80 lbs of force to turn the bolt; you might want to remove the spark plugs- That'll reduce it to about 40-50 lbs, which could help in tight confines.
I modified a 24mm socket (pic below) that fits in front of the rack that I use to turn the engine over by hand without disassembling anything. Simple to make one of these.
I modified a 24mm socket (pic below) that fits in front of the rack that I use to turn the engine over by hand without disassembling anything. Simple to make one of these.
Patches, that looks like something that would work. Looks like I need to take my 24mm socket to a grinder!
Edit - Is there a reason why you centered the added flats on the sockets' corners instead of its flats?
Patches, that looks like something that would work. Looks like I need to take my 24mm socket to a grinder!
Edit - Is there a reason why you centered the added flats on the sockets' corners instead of its flats?
Makes no difference - you aren't gong to use the internal socket anyway. I think I just tried to leave as much metal as possible to maximize strength. You use the flats with an open end wrench. You might be able to do a hex to make it easier to position the wrench but the four sides worked for me.
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if you don't have headers and the car is a 6spd you could take off the inspection cover and use a flywheel turner... if you have headers it would be way too much of a hassle and taking the plugs out will make it much easier whichever method you use
I bought a 5-piece 45 degree offset box end wrench set at AutoZone for $18 (p/n 70-032). Used the 15/16" wrench (pictured below) ... fit without interference. Used it during the valve spring swap-out, worked well.
Last edited by ZeeOSix; Dec 29, 2014 at 05:27 PM.
Reason: Fixed Photobucket link
I bought a 5-piece 45 degree offset box end wrench set at AutoZone for $18 (p/n 70-032). Used the 15/16" wrench (pictured below) ... fit without interference. Used it during the valve spring swap-out, worked well.
I did something similar....bought a long length, 24 MM box/open end combo wrench at Lowes. Works well.
I bought a 5-piece 45 degree offset box end wrench set at AutoZone for $18 (p/n 70-032). Used the 15/16" wrench (pictured below) ... fit without interference. Used it during the valve spring swap-out, worked well.
Is there a good way to do this? On my chevy truck with the 5.3 LS1-based motor I've got plenty of clearance to get a socket on the crank bolt. In my '00 vert I've barely got enough clearance to get just the socket on the bolt but can't get it and the wrench or an extension on with it due to the steering rack being in the way.
Put a socket and ratchet on the alternator pulley nut. You can rotate the engine backwards. The belt slips if you try to rotate in the normal direction.
Try it. It works! I've got a C5 and an LS swapped Nova. I've used this on both. Even with the plugs in.
Put a socket and ratchet on the alternator pulley nut. You can rotate the engine backwards. The belt slips if you try to rotate in the normal direction.
Try it. It works! I've got a C5 and an LS swapped Nova. I've used this on both. Even with the plugs in.
Ron
I have done this too. If you put some extra tension on the auto tensioner, you can turn it clockwise.
Would this work? With the car in gear and the back tires jacked up far enough to clear the ground, turn a tire. Shouldn't that turn the engine over? Assuming it is a manual transmission.
Last edited by glbeauchamp; Apr 30, 2018 at 11:12 AM.