Monster Stage 2 Vibration?
I have a bad feeling that the clutch or flywheel may not be balanced properly. Anyone have experience with this kind of problem? Will it hurt anything if I drive it like that?
I have a bad feeling that the clutch or flywheel may not be balanced properly. Anyone have experience with this kind of problem? Will it hurt anything if I drive it like that?
However, how can you know it's the new clutch? You had your whole engine rebuilt. New rotating assembly? Removed and replaced, did they check motor mounts, things of that nature. You changed a lot of things at one time, not just the clutch. The easiest thing to check now, however, is probably the clutch balance.
Have you contacted Monster? I would think they would tell you the same thing.
What all did you have done during this engine rebuild and clutch replacement?
I'll contact Monster if it turns out that there is a problem with the clutch. I won't bother them now since I don't have all of the facts.
I'll contact Monster if it turns out that there is a problem with the clutch. I won't bother them now since I don't have all of the facts.
The problem is that C5/C6 manual vettes are extremely sensitive to very small imbalances, imbalances that would normally be fine for the engine but can result in unwanted vibrations. So even though Monster's flywheels and pressure plates, and any aftermarket vendor's for that matter, can be within a manufacturer's balance tolerance specification, they can still be slightly out enough, when combined with any small engine imbalances, to result in some vibrations. This isn't a criticism of Monster. GM gets the TOTAL engine balance, with flywheel and pressure plate mounted to the engine, down to within 0.5oz∙in. When the STOCK flywheels and pressure plates are delivered, they alone can be over that amount when combined. Then put it on an engine that can very well be over that amount and you have vibrations. GM took care of this situation with their external hot balance procedure.
The hot balance doesn't apply to your situation since you have a hand built engine, but instead you would want to balance your FW/PP combo down to as close to zero as possible. Even if it measures out to be what would normally be considered close enough to zero. You are having it taken out, that's the bulk of the work. You'd be well served to balance it even further to zero, as close as the shop can reasonably do, with their normal balancing operations.
Do you happen to have a balance sheet or something that shows you what your rotating assembly ended up being balanced to?
To my knowledge, Monster seems to be the only clutch vendor to acknowledge the factory external hot balance procedure and the C5/C6's driveline sensitivities to very small imbalances. That's a step in the right direction.
Last edited by thbwlZ; Oct 7, 2014 at 11:03 AM.
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The Monster flywheel/clutch was replaced with a new stock LS7 flywheel/clutch and the vibration is gone. No other changes were made.
Last edited by 7LitreC5; Dec 18, 2014 at 10:15 AM.
I went thru a similar problem. You had so many changes @ the same time that it could have been an ugly nightmare chasing it down. My stroker had run previously never noticing any vibration before the clutch swap so it was easy identifying the culprit. Now to R/R the clutch in a C5.......not so easy.Do you have any concern with the LS7 clutch holding up? Not sure of your power level & what you do with the car. I tried an LS7 clutch with unfavourable results with Hi rpm shifts.
We checked the torque tube while it was apart and everything inside looked brand new.
I went thru a similar problem. You had so many changes @ the same time that it could have been an ugly nightmare chasing it down. My stroker had run previously never noticing any vibration before the clutch swap so it was easy identifying the culprit. Now to R/R the clutch in a C5.......not so easy.Do you have any concern with the LS7 clutch holding up? Not sure of your power level & what you do with the car. I tried an LS7 clutch with unfavourable results with Hi rpm shifts.
We checked the torque tube while it was apart and everything inside looked brand new.
Rule of thumb is about 3% per thousand feet of elevation power loss, that is significant @ your location. I'm around 1k elevation, mountains all around us but most of the highways are in the valley's.











