Problem with rear sway endlinks?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
There will be a hex on the end of the stud and/or flats on the stud the opposite side of the nut. You either put a small wrench of the end of the stud or a larger one one the flats. The nut will come off once you hold the stud from turning.
I don't see the need for heim ends on a street car. You just don't need length adjust-ability on a street car. The factory ones are a very decent piece with the ball and socket ends with seals to keep the grease in and the dirt out.
I don't see the need for heim ends on a street car. You just don't need length adjust-ability on a street car. The factory ones are a very decent piece with the ball and socket ends with seals to keep the grease in and the dirt out.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 553
Likes: 97
Classic plastic links. Good pics, I had those stock from the factory. Was a good idea in that they are lightweight but deadly when they snap and only one goof over speed bump does that to them.
Should be no problem using the what appears to be stock GM metal links you bought.
Adjustable is nice if the car is lowered, setting the correct angle of the bar and preloading the bar is important.
Clunky and squeaky heim joint links is either bad quality, lack of proper lubricant or incorrect pre-load. A heim joint link is the ultimate solution
Should be no problem using the what appears to be stock GM metal links you bought.
Adjustable is nice if the car is lowered, setting the correct angle of the bar and preloading the bar is important.
Clunky and squeaky heim joint links is either bad quality, lack of proper lubricant or incorrect pre-load. A heim joint link is the ultimate solution
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 239
From: Redondo Beach CA
Thanks for the tip. I saw the end of the bolt you describe, but it didn't register.
I think I will take your advice about the proposed upgrade, more weight for something I don't need.
I am not the kind of guy to object to stuff I don't absolutely need on a car, but when you combine that with extra weight, well, a mans got to know his limits.
Next stop, some chemical rust help, that is safe for rubber.
I think I will take your advice about the proposed upgrade, more weight for something I don't need.
I am not the kind of guy to object to stuff I don't absolutely need on a car, but when you combine that with extra weight, well, a mans got to know his limits.
Next stop, some chemical rust help, that is safe for rubber.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
Good luck.
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 148
Likes: 2
From: Orlando, FL
Ray, what's the size that you went with?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
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Racer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 352
Likes: 24
From: Bowman ND
I replaced the end links on my 98 vert last spring and I've got about 3500 miles on them so far. Was real quiet up until about a month ago. I started getting a clunk in the passenger front corner on some of the street cracks and bumps. Nothing real bad but noticeable. Is it possible that the metal end link could be bad with so little miles on it. I know parts can go bad but I've been through just about every nut and bolt on that corner and not seeing anything. Going to install new c6 z06 shocks next week also. Any help would be great.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 352
Likes: 24
From: Bowman ND
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I had a clunking too. Mine was not tight enough.
The torque spec for the end link nuts is 53 lb ft. So it is pretty tight.
For me holding the stud with a torx driver and tightening the nut with a box end wrench I have to pull on it pretty hard.
Good luck.
The torque spec for the end link nuts is 53 lb ft. So it is pretty tight.
For me holding the stud with a torx driver and tightening the nut with a box end wrench I have to pull on it pretty hard.
Good luck.