Short Throw
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 4
From: cinnaminson n.j.
St. Jude Donor '14
Mgw is probably the best. I bought a new c6 shifter from Gene Culley for half the price. It works great. Much better than the stock c5 shifter. If you anything but mgw make sure you replace the shift box bushings with the urethane replacements.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
For regular street use?..........none. That's been my exprience. Short throw shifters give up a lot of leverage to accomplish the "short throw" which in-turn considerably increases shifter effort. It's inevitable. The best compromise I've found is the C6 shifter assembly. Slightly shorter throws with much improved smoothness. Just my two cents.
If you don't mind the increase in shifter effort and/or your car will mainly see track use, I think the MGW is probably the best. The B&M is not bad either.
PS: I have a very slightly used B&M sport shifter that I'm willing to sell, if you're interested.
If you don't mind the increase in shifter effort and/or your car will mainly see track use, I think the MGW is probably the best. The B&M is not bad either.
PS: I have a very slightly used B&M sport shifter that I'm willing to sell, if you're interested.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 389
Likes: 1
MGW... Don't agree with "considerably" on shifter effort but, that's my opinion..
For me, The stocker was WAY too tall for me, Never drove a C6 but, I doubt their is a factory shifter anywhere that I would invest the time to install in anything I own...
For me, The stocker was WAY too tall for me, Never drove a C6 but, I doubt their is a factory shifter anywhere that I would invest the time to install in anything I own...
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 4
From: cinnaminson n.j.
St. Jude Donor '14
Why would you bad mouth something you know nothing about? A c6 shifter is a big improvement over a c5 shifter and it's inexpensive!
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Plano IL
I think the best shifter is subjective and depends on how you drive the car and what your personal preference is on shifter feel. See if there are people in your area that will let you get a feel for the different shifters. I have an MGW with the lower box and it is a nice shifter. I have had a stock c6z06 shifter, tps attack shifter and the MTI 6 shooter and now the MGW. I like the MGW but there is some increased effort, but it's not too bad. I did really like the c6 shifter as it was very smooth and easy to shift and still felt fairly precise and the angled handle felt like it put the **** in a more comfortable location. I also thought the c6 **** was nice looking and felt really good to shift. I have actually been toying with the idea of going back to a c6 shifter for what it's worth. Hope that helps a little bit...
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 60
From: Artesia NM
I really appreciate all of you guy's input, even the differences in opinion. That's what is all about on these forums, hearing everyone's experiences and ideas. Opinions are like butts, we all have one and our own is good to us as an individual. Not everyone will agree but that's ok. All good info.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 1
From: Richmond VA
I have the B&M and it is MUCH better than the stock. The throw is much better, but as someone mentioned, there is increased effort. I did the "anti-venom" mod with one washer. That made a difference in the effort and feel. I plan to add a second washer to see if that makes it even better.
I have one complaint, when the Z is cold, getting it into reverse requires a solid effort. After the Z warms up, it's like any other gear. If the second washer doesn't change that, I may be going with a C6 shifter.
I have one complaint, when the Z is cold, getting it into reverse requires a solid effort. After the Z warms up, it's like any other gear. If the second washer doesn't change that, I may be going with a C6 shifter.
Racer
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 360
Likes: 6
From: Panama City, FL
I think most people who complain about the effort of aftermarket shifters haven't tried the anti-venom mod. I just about took my MGW off after installing it due to that, but after 2 washers I was in love and couldn't live without it.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 428
Likes: 30
I went back to the stock shifter, and found that to be much better than a short shifter. I need all the leverage I can get on one of the worst shifting cars I've had. Maybe a new transmission would help, but either way shorter is not always better or faster. The stock shifter is a better match for the long clutch throw anyway, with much better feedback on position. Most of the slop is in the trans I think. The short shifter only seems better. The biggest improvement I feel is the Hurst T handle. I have had one in every car I could use one in. I love the way you can guide it on the different pressure points.
Last edited by REDHOTS; Oct 30, 2014 at 07:44 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 691
From: West Virginia
Replaced the factory shifter with a shortened C6 unit. Really did not like it, as the "bent" lever brings the **** to the rear, too close to me for comfort. Effort was high as well.
Now running a home brew short throw. My old C5 lever, sawn through below the existing **** and threaded down to the insulator "bulge". I also took the unit completely apart and with a bit of judicious emery paper use on the riveted plate that holds the lever, tightened up the shift by getting rid of any "slop" in the system. The rivets were replaced by 3/16 bolts and locknuts - and Loctite. The result is precise shifts, the **** positioned where I like it and shorter throws - but not much more effort. And of course the new set up does not have the weirdly shaped GM **** stuck up too high to look good.
I am using a Hurst cue ball type ****, but anything that fits the 9/16 special fine thread will work.
BTW, there's not much difference in the C5 and C6 shifter mechanisms - my rebuilt C5 unit is every bit as precise as the C6 unit I had in there.
Now running a home brew short throw. My old C5 lever, sawn through below the existing **** and threaded down to the insulator "bulge". I also took the unit completely apart and with a bit of judicious emery paper use on the riveted plate that holds the lever, tightened up the shift by getting rid of any "slop" in the system. The rivets were replaced by 3/16 bolts and locknuts - and Loctite. The result is precise shifts, the **** positioned where I like it and shorter throws - but not much more effort. And of course the new set up does not have the weirdly shaped GM **** stuck up too high to look good.
I am using a Hurst cue ball type ****, but anything that fits the 9/16 special fine thread will work.
BTW, there's not much difference in the C5 and C6 shifter mechanisms - my rebuilt C5 unit is every bit as precise as the C6 unit I had in there.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 218
Likes: 5
From: OR
Did the stock C5 Z and the stock C6 Z and neither was much good to me. Bought a used B&M off of a member here and the difference is significant. My car spends more time on the track (road course) than the street and I would not change back to a factory shifter. I can understand not wanting to deal with the extra effort (not much really) and the precise or "notchy" operation of a precision shifter for a daily driver or a weekend car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 1
From: Richmond VA
Replaced the factory shifter with a shortened C6 unit. Really did not like it, as the "bent" lever brings the **** to the rear, too close to me for comfort. Effort was high as well.
Now running a home brew short throw. My old C5 lever, sawn through below the existing **** and threaded down to the insulator "bulge". I also took the unit completely apart and with a bit of judicious emery paper use on the riveted plate that holds the lever, tightened up the shift by getting rid of any "slop" in the system. The rivets were replaced by 3/16 bolts and locknuts - and Loctite. The result is precise shifts, the **** positioned where I like it and shorter throws - but not much more effort. And of course the new set up does not have the weirdly shaped GM **** stuck up too high to look good.
I am using a Hurst cue ball type ****, but anything that fits the 9/16 special fine thread will work.
BTW, there's not much difference in the C5 and C6 shifter mechanisms - my rebuilt C5 unit is every bit as precise as the C6 unit I had in there.
Now running a home brew short throw. My old C5 lever, sawn through below the existing **** and threaded down to the insulator "bulge". I also took the unit completely apart and with a bit of judicious emery paper use on the riveted plate that holds the lever, tightened up the shift by getting rid of any "slop" in the system. The rivets were replaced by 3/16 bolts and locknuts - and Loctite. The result is precise shifts, the **** positioned where I like it and shorter throws - but not much more effort. And of course the new set up does not have the weirdly shaped GM **** stuck up too high to look good.
I am using a Hurst cue ball type ****, but anything that fits the 9/16 special fine thread will work.
BTW, there's not much difference in the C5 and C6 shifter mechanisms - my rebuilt C5 unit is every bit as precise as the C6 unit I had in there.