Clutch replacement questions (a bunch!)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Christiansburg Virginia
Clutch replacement questions (a bunch!)
The deal: 98 C5. 40k on the clock. Went from 305 RWHP to 535 RWHP with a Maggie CVS-2300 and a small pulley. 9 lbs boost, small cam, long tubes, factory mufflers. For a couple months all was well. Run it, but don't beat on it. Now the clutch is slipping if I DO get on it, even in 5th. So it's clutch time.
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
The deal: 98 C5. 40k on the clock. Went from 305 RWHP to 535 RWHP with a Maggie CVS-2300 and a small pulley. 9 lbs boost, small cam, long tubes, factory mufflers. For a couple months all was well. Run it, but don't beat on it. Now the clutch is slipping if I DO get on it, even in 5th. So it's clutch time.
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
For speed bleeder, any one would work. The advantage of the longer one is you can route it to a position that's easy to access. The Tick one is 4 ft I believe, so I've got mine going into the engine bay right near the clutch reservoir. With a shorter one you would have to place it somewhere under the car, which just means you'll have to jack up the car to bleed. Not a big deal IMO, but they're all the same price so why not get a long one.
Flywheel - will need the one that comes with the twin disc clutch I think?
Torque tube guibos, can't comment on poly or OEM, however I'd suggest you look at the condition of yours. My car has 112k and my guibos looked brand new so I left them as is. It's possible they were replaced before I got the car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Christiansburg Virginia
The only clutches I've seen described as having a stock-like feel that can hold a lot of power are the twin discs. They're all rather expensive unfortunately.
For speed bleeder, any one would work. The advantage of the longer one is you can route it to a position that's easy to access. The Tick one is 4 ft I believe, so I've got mine going into the engine bay right near the clutch reservoir. With a shorter one you would have to place it somewhere under the car, which just means you'll have to jack up the car to bleed. Not a big deal IMO, but they're all the same price so why not get a long one.
Flywheel - will need the one that comes with the twin disc clutch I think?
Torque tube guibos, can't comment on poly or OEM, however I'd suggest you look at the condition of yours. My car has 112k and my guibos looked brand new so I left them as is. It's possible they were replaced before I got the car.
For speed bleeder, any one would work. The advantage of the longer one is you can route it to a position that's easy to access. The Tick one is 4 ft I believe, so I've got mine going into the engine bay right near the clutch reservoir. With a shorter one you would have to place it somewhere under the car, which just means you'll have to jack up the car to bleed. Not a big deal IMO, but they're all the same price so why not get a long one.
Flywheel - will need the one that comes with the twin disc clutch I think?
Torque tube guibos, can't comment on poly or OEM, however I'd suggest you look at the condition of yours. My car has 112k and my guibos looked brand new so I left them as is. It's possible they were replaced before I got the car.
Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
I just zip tied it to something. Cut the zip tie when I need to bleed the clutch and stick the end into an empty water bottle. Comes out the bellhousing the same way the regular bleed fitting would.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 239
From: Redondo Beach CA
I am a little out of my depth giving clutch advice, but you might check out McLeod .
I selected a RedStreetTwin, RST, from their line, for a lighter feel, it is rebuildable, and, because of the price. I don't need that much clutch, being all stock, but it works great, easy to modulate. I did include the steel flywheel from the same place, the factory flywheel doesn't hit all the friction area, but is said to work at my power levels.
In my reading, I have gathered that the softer guibos are preferred whenever possible , to save parts. I have seen recommended power levels for different materials, like if you have this much power you need this material, I found it pretty easily but can't point you to it. I just have read a lot of accounts here about guys breaking stuff by getting high dollar race connectors instead of the softer choice and then transmit more shock and vibration . This quicker loading seems to anger certain parts and they quit their job on the spot.
I selected a RedStreetTwin, RST, from their line, for a lighter feel, it is rebuildable, and, because of the price. I don't need that much clutch, being all stock, but it works great, easy to modulate. I did include the steel flywheel from the same place, the factory flywheel doesn't hit all the friction area, but is said to work at my power levels.
In my reading, I have gathered that the softer guibos are preferred whenever possible , to save parts. I have seen recommended power levels for different materials, like if you have this much power you need this material, I found it pretty easily but can't point you to it. I just have read a lot of accounts here about guys breaking stuff by getting high dollar race connectors instead of the softer choice and then transmit more shock and vibration . This quicker loading seems to anger certain parts and they quit their job on the spot.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo Texas
The deal: 98 C5. 40k on the clock. Went from 305 RWHP to 535 RWHP with a Maggie CVS-2300 and a small pulley. 9 lbs boost, small cam, long tubes, factory mufflers. For a couple months all was well. Run it, but don't beat on it. Now the clutch is slipping if I DO get on it, even in 5th. So it's clutch time.
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
So many quality clutches, how do you pick one? I need to cover 700 ft/lbs torque, but don't want to have a super heavy pedal.
Remote release bearing bleeder hoses. I've seen them from 12" to 48". I'm thinking a short one is fine. The fitting on the end looks like it could be mounted to a bracket and a clip will hold it in place. Are there factory brackets? Can it just hang out of the bellhousing?
Flywheels. Racing quality about $400. OEM grade about $140. Is that sufficient? I'm not a drag racer, never will be. Don't dump the pedal, ever.
The flexible couplings in the torque tube. Forget what they are called. Obviously want to replace it while the torque tube is off. Again, OEM or synthetic?
Maybe someone could make up a sticky about clutch replacement. I know there are many posts about it, but I'd like to see the answers in one place...
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by Ernest DeMoss; Dec 13, 2014 at 07:40 PM.
