Headlight Adjustment '99 FRC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 251
Likes: 9
From: Western Massachusetts
Headlight Adjustment '99 FRC
I know that there is an adjustment rod often referred to as the "golden rod". Once snapped there is no replacement for the rod itself - the entire headlight assembly must be replaced. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to free up the rod and avoid snapping it. My Vette is off the road for the next 2-3 months so I have plenty of time to solve my problem.
Given the amount of "down time" and the cost of the parts - is it advisable to replace the gears with brass gears as preventive maintenance?
Given the amount of "down time" and the cost of the parts - is it advisable to replace the gears with brass gears as preventive maintenance?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You can pull the lamp assembly from the car and that will provide easy access to both the horizontal and vertical adjusting rods. Use some WD-40 where the rods are supported and on the gears themselves. Let the WD-40 sit overnight and gently try to turn the rods. Don't force them!!
If they don't rotate, spray some more WD-40 and let them sit for overnight again. You can also try some brake parts cleaning spray but make sure you protect everything from overspray.
Once you get the rods to turn, spray some white lithium grease on the gears and the shafts anywhere they go thru a support.
If they don't rotate, spray some more WD-40 and let them sit for overnight again. You can also try some brake parts cleaning spray but make sure you protect everything from overspray.
Once you get the rods to turn, spray some white lithium grease on the gears and the shafts anywhere they go thru a support.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 204
From: Calabash, NC
I know that there is an adjustment rod often referred to as the "golden rod". Once snapped there is no replacement for the rod itself - the entire headlight assembly must be replaced. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to free up the rod and avoid snapping it. My Vette is off the road for the next 2-3 months so I have plenty of time to solve my problem.
Given the amount of "down time" and the cost of the parts - is it advisable to replace the gears with brass gears as preventive maintenance?
Given the amount of "down time" and the cost of the parts - is it advisable to replace the gears with brass gears as preventive maintenance?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh NC
I used BP Blaster (over night soak), but what really helped was my wife's hair dryer. The heat helps loosen things up. You will need to gently turn the "golden rod" back and forth. It will eventually move freely.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 234
From: SW Nuh Hampsha
2018 C5 of Year Finalist
If you are unsuccessful in freeing up the rods as mentioned above, you can dismantle the small "differential" box, where the rods end up. The box is plastic and so are the gears inside. Over time, the grease/lubricant inside dries out, causing the seizure. Thoroughly clean out the differentials and repack with a light grease. 
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
The most foolproof way is to disassemble them. the rod turns another plastic gear inside the gearbox. This gear rotates around the metal adjustment screw which has a funny head which is held to the headlight so it can't rotate.
Don't pull the head of the adjustment screws out of the bushings in the headlight brackets. That will open-up the bushings and leave the screw loose. Squeeze the sides and pop the bushing out of square hole and then open it up to remove the screw head.
Once you have the screw head free, turn the screw out of the gear box. Clean the threads and lube and re-assemble. If the screw doesn't want to come out easily, then take the gear boxes apart so you have the screw with the plastic nut stuck on it in your hand to work with until you get them apart. I wire wheeled the screws on mine to clean them up and the headlights now adjust with ease.
Don't pull the head of the adjustment screws out of the bushings in the headlight brackets. That will open-up the bushings and leave the screw loose. Squeeze the sides and pop the bushing out of square hole and then open it up to remove the screw head.
Once you have the screw head free, turn the screw out of the gear box. Clean the threads and lube and re-assemble. If the screw doesn't want to come out easily, then take the gear boxes apart so you have the screw with the plastic nut stuck on it in your hand to work with until you get them apart. I wire wheeled the screws on mine to clean them up and the headlights now adjust with ease.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Dec 31, 2014 at 06:48 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 239
From: Redondo Beach CA
Preventive maintenance is always the best, but cheap also has its moments in my world.
I have read that the plastic gears only use one side, so can be flipped to engage unworn teeth on the other side in the event of gear failure. Everybody here seems to go the brass gear route. I guess they would rather do it once than trust ancient plastic on a dark night. Not me, I will use those plastic gears until the bitter end. Which, hopefully, will be close to home.
I have read that the plastic gears only use one side, so can be flipped to engage unworn teeth on the other side in the event of gear failure. Everybody here seems to go the brass gear route. I guess they would rather do it once than trust ancient plastic on a dark night. Not me, I will use those plastic gears until the bitter end. Which, hopefully, will be close to home.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Yes, for the gears in the motor you often just can take the arm off, rotate the motor with the manual **** by 1/2 turn and re-install the arm to double the life, or at least get you through the summer before fixing it. There is a replacement plastic gear available in those HELP packages for about $8. If you have the earlier bolt-together housings its easy enough to change.
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