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Please take a look at my thread here and offer any advice on engine rebuild. Thanks!
Unlucky #7, been there done that. You had a pretty good tune @ 375rw, so I would guess lots of timing & a lean AFR. Many a WB's are not calibrated to test gas & many are out of calibration the wrong way. By that I mean the WB show's rich when it is actually lean........something to ask. Was the tune on the edge in terms of timing & AFR, maybe the timing could have been backed done with very little affect to peak power. I dyno'd a motor & watched the power vs the WB, the motor was happier power wise when the WB reported 11.5 hence my WB calibration lesson.
I did a lot searching when my #7 passed, everything from a lean cylinder to the steam building up in the cooling system. The post that sticks in my mind was from Kurt Urban when he was involved with the Motorola cars. They were losing that cylinder so he had one on the dyno with EGT's & AFR on each cylinder, no way could they make that cylinder fail or find reason. This part I'm not sure how it came about, there was a fuel change to higher octane & the problem went away.
That was pretty good damage for a non-power adder engine. That piston looked like a typical nitrous "Oops"......... Usually detonation will let oil get into the chamber which lowers the octane which lets the detonation go-wild and hence, a melt-down. A vacuum gauge in the crankcase (like hooked to a valve cover) will instantly show a piston(s) no longer sealing. Been there done that on a nitrous race engine and that vacuum gauge saved me a LOT of money! Good luck with the rebuild.
I'm going to say that #7 will need a hone and oversize piston. Although you wouldn't know for sure until you have a machine shop measure it.
I honestly think your best bet given the fact that you road race the car would be to rebuild it with forged Pistons and rods.
It's not horribly expensive and there are good parts available.
Talk to Martin at Tic Performance.
You could go budget and just hone with a replacement piston and rings in #7. Leave the rest of the Pistons and rings alone. Risky though for your kind of racing.
When done, have it tuned, then subtract a couple deg of timing and Richen the mix a tad.
And yes, you need to have a look at the main bearings.