Shifter knob pin destroyed!
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Mebane North Carolina
Shifter **** pin destroyed!
Went to pull my shifter **** and I found the pin that holds it was destroyed by someone previous. Not much left to get visegrips on. Any suggestions? Guess I should have asked before buying
Last edited by Extra260; Jan 25, 2015 at 06:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Mebane North Carolina
Le Mans Master
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From: ABQ NM
Cruise-In II Veteran
Maybe try drilling out what's left of the pin? Or if you can take the shifter out and access the shift lever from the underside (it's sort of a hollow tube), maybe you could punch out the pin from below? Just a few random thoughts.... Good luck.
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Instructor
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From: Mebane North Carolina
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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this is more along what I was thinking... I would take the shifter out and put it in a vice upside down and use a punch and hammer to knock the pin out... if the shifter is stock you might even consider just buying an aftermarket shifter, the stock one is pretty crappy in my opinion
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: West Virginia
I had the same problem - found that the pin was battered and would not come out. Popped the gaiter out, removed the whole assembly and attacked it on the bench.
In the end I had to cut the **** off. I found that the pin had been hammered home out of alignment and had royally screwed up the top of the lever - widening the slot, so jamming everything. I cut the lever off just below the damage, and threaded it all the way down to the vibration/noise insulator.
Added a new screw on Hurst cue ball ****, and done. Looks much better than that truck **** they came with, plus you get a (slightly) shorter shift throw, due to the shorter lever.
Only special item needed is a 9/16 18 tpi die - about $10 from the big mail order place, and a new **** - many of them out there to choose from.
In the end I had to cut the **** off. I found that the pin had been hammered home out of alignment and had royally screwed up the top of the lever - widening the slot, so jamming everything. I cut the lever off just below the damage, and threaded it all the way down to the vibration/noise insulator.
Added a new screw on Hurst cue ball ****, and done. Looks much better than that truck **** they came with, plus you get a (slightly) shorter shift throw, due to the shorter lever.
Only special item needed is a 9/16 18 tpi die - about $10 from the big mail order place, and a new **** - many of them out there to choose from.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Mebane North Carolina