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Torque tube coupler question

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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #21  
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NVH tolerance ???
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:49 PM
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Noise, Vibration, Harshness
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
NVH tolerance ???
Noise, Vibration and Harshness.

One or more of these WILL increase to one degree or another, depending on the combination of parts chosen.
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 10:55 PM
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So back to my coupler question....

OEM rubber on the flywheel end and a poly coupler on the rearend side..... any comments ??
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Also, as long as your old bolts are good, I'd recommend doing a thorough job of cleaning the threads of all remnants of the thread locker. A decent wire brush along with some acetone (for dissolving the TL) works well. I'd also run a thread chaser through to clean the internal threads. Reapply some fresh TL and your good when torquing them down.

When I use a thread lock liquid I use the Loctite products. Do you recommend the medium (blue) or high strength (red) for the TT fasteners? I think I am correct on the colors.

Thanks, Sam
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
When I use a thread lock liquid I use the Loctite products. Do you recommend the medium (blue) or high strength (red) for the TT fasteners? I think I am correct on the colors.

Thanks, Sam
I agree on the Loc-Tite brand of products, they're top shelf quality. I used the red
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
So back to my coupler question....

OEM rubber on the flywheel end and a poly coupler on the rearend side..... any comments ??
With your setup, I would stick with the stock setup. People are running considerably more power through them with no problems and there's no need to upgrade and chance the possible NVH issue.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Patches
With your setup, I would stick with the stock setup. People are running considerably more power through them with no problems and there's no need to upgrade and chance the possible NVH issue.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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I run dss poly couplers on both ends... when I first installed them there was a slight vibration on takeoff but after awhile it totally went away, I'm not sure what caused it or why it went away... I didn't notice any runout on my shafts when I installed everything but the only thing I can think of is that either I did have a minimal amount of runout or the couplers weren't perfectly true and that caused the vibration upon initial install and it went away after the couplers wore in the area(s) they were rubbing... if you don't plan on going over 500rwhp I think the stock gm couplers should do just fine... if you have the older 10mm torque tube I would consider swapping to the 12mm tube/couplers
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Old Feb 7, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
I run dss poly couplers on both ends... when I first installed them there was a slight vibration on takeoff but after awhile it totally went away, I'm not sure what caused it or why it went away... I didn't notice any runout on my shafts when I installed everything but the only thing I can think of is that either I did have a minimal amount of runout or the couplers weren't perfectly true and that caused the vibration upon initial install and it went away after the couplers wore in the area(s) they were rubbing... if you don't plan on going over 500rwhp I think the stock gm couplers should do just fine... if you have the older 10mm torque tube I would consider swapping to the 12mm tube/couplers
That added expense will have to come further down the road....
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Old Feb 7, 2015 | 11:29 PM
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yeah I don't think you will need them if you're gonna stay under 500rwhp... I am also thinking about upgrading to a dss 3.5" billet driveshaft when I get around to doing my tr6060 swap, things get out of hand fast
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Old Feb 7, 2015 | 11:33 PM
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DSS Couplers and no complaints...other than the price and pain in the dick they are to install. But havent fragged them launching 530 horse off the two step on drag radials yet.
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by neutron82
yeah I don't think you will need them if you're gonna stay under 500rwhp... I am also thinking about upgrading to a dss 3.5" billet driveshaft when I get around to doing my tr6060 swap, things get out of hand fast
At this point the car should is somewhere between 400-450 hp. When I start looking at building my stroker motor and/or possibly adding a supercharger and everything is out of the car, then I'll swap for the 12mm TT.


Originally Posted by Arnie Chamberlain
DSS Couplers and no complaints...other than the price and pain in the dick they are to install. But havent fragged them launching 530 horse off the two step on drag radials yet.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:03 AM
  #34  
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automatic 2004
some web site 10mm
other 12mm

how can i be sure ?
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 11:13 AM
  #35  
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2001+ all use the 12mm

2004=12mm
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 11:45 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by SaberD
2001+ all use the 12mm

2004=12mm

It's been posted many times by experts I trust that all automatics are 10mm. So, I'd expect to find 10mm couplers in a 2004 automatic.
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 08:18 AM
  #37  
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yes
this is why I want to confirm before ordering the material
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Old Oct 22, 2015 | 06:52 PM
  #38  
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If you want to confirm then call a few reputable companies like RKT Performance, RPM Transmission and The Driveshaft Shop and see what they say. DSS does lists 10mm auto and 12mm 6-speed shafts on their site for 01-04 C5's.
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Old Oct 23, 2015 | 08:13 PM
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I changed to alum/poly Six Shooter couplers. No I'll effects, and should last a lifetime.
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Old Oct 23, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
I changed to alum/poly Six Shooter couplers. No I'll effects, and should last a lifetime.
I tried the Prothane six shooters several years ago. The polyurethane used began to dramatically deteriorate after about a year or two.

If you insist on using a poly coupler, at LEAST go with the DSS couplers. FAR more robust.
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