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Where/how did you measure voltage? You really need to be measuring at the battery and then compare with what the IPC shows to help figure out what the issue is.
Could be the alternator which is easy to test by measuring what it is putting out at the alternator and not at the battery. If not remove and take it in for testing.
Could also be your connections at the starter are the problem as the alternator feed to the battery goes via the starter. Here is the circuit design.
Where/how did you measure voltage? You really need to be measuring at the battery and then compare with what the IPC shows to help figure out what the issue is.
Could be the alternator which is easy to test by measuring what it is putting out at the alternator and not at the battery. If not remove and take it in for testing.
Could also be your connections at the starter are the problem as the alternator feed to the battery goes via the starter. Here is the circuit design.
I was just reading what the IPC was telling me. So I guess i'll remove my alternator and take it in to be tested.
If it is any help... I recently had a 10% Under Drive Crank Pulley installed and that seems to be when it started acting up. It's almost like the alternator was going bad but the extra strain on the alternator just pushed it over the edge.
Forgot to mention, if your alternator is bad DO NOT turn it in for a core until you have a working replacement. Many replacements do not interface with the PCM and will throw a fault message. A lot of people have theirs rebuilt. You can get a new one, they are out there, and there are rebuilt ones. Getting a correct one from the local parts store may not work.
Don't bother testing the alternator first. You're getting > 13V so the alternator must be working. Clean the ground cable going to the engine block and clean the power wiring at the starter.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Bryan144
So lately my volts have been at around 11 on crank up dropping to mid 10's and while running today it was at 13.3 - 14.4
I replaced the AC Delco battery with an Optima Redtop thinking that, that was the problem. Apparently it isn't.
Alternator going bad? Grounds? Advice much appreciated. Thanks!
Disconnect the negative cable at the battery first, then check (and tighten) the battery cable connection on the starter solenoid itself. Re-install negative cable.
I was just reminded about another thing. When I turn the key to the "on" position but do not crank the car I hear this clicking type noise.. Like a relay clicking? Maybe it's because the battery is low? Could it be something to do with the connections/starter?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Bryan144
...........When I turn the key to the "on" position but do not crank the car I hear this clicking type noise.. Like a relay clicking? Maybe it's because the battery is low? Could it be something to do with the connections/starter?
Sounds like a poor/intermittent primary power connection somewhere. Check and tighten as needed all positive connections, including the one on the starter solenoid.
Sounds like a poor/intermittent primary power connection somewhere. Check and tighten as needed all positive connections, including the one on the starter solenoid.
Will check these out for sure. It sounds like it is on the passenger side of the engine bay and I believe the starter is also on the passenger side? Should I get a sensor cleaner to clean connections? Like a MAF sensor cleaner spray?
Will check these out for sure. It sounds like it is on the passenger side of the engine bay and I believe the starter is also on the passenger side? Should I get a sensor cleaner to clean connections? Like a MAF sensor cleaner spray?
A poor battery connection will cause all kinds of strange symptoms - and those side terminals are evil. Last time I had strange things (like clicking with ignition on but not cranking) happening, I undid both battery terminals, cleaned them up, wiped plenty of vaseline on and retightened. Important to make sure that the cable end is really snugged properly onto the battery terminal. Now I carry that little metric wrench around with me just in case.
p.s. the theoretical fully charged single lead acid cell voltage is 2.2v, so a 12v, (6 cell) battery maxes at 13.2v when fully charged and disconnected from the car then checked with a multimeter. When running, the alternator controls the voltage - typically around 14v+/- in my experience.
A poor battery connection will cause all kinds of strange symptoms - and those side terminals are evil. Last time I had strange things (like clicking with ignition on but not cranking) happening, I undid both battery terminals, cleaned them up, wiped plenty of vaseline on and retightened. Important to make sure that the cable end is really snugged properly onto the battery terminal. Now I carry that little metric wrench around with me just in case.
Well I just installed my new battery so I will check the terminals but it did the clicking before the new battery. I guess I'll start with the simple checking/cleaning etc...
Thanks for the advice everyone. Still getting to know my C5
Take the wires off the starter and sand the terminal ends so they are nice and shiny. Same with the main ground cable that is connected to the block. Then, re-install them. Just tightening them is a waste of time. Corroded is corroded, no matter how tight you make them.
Take the wires off the starter and sand the terminal ends so they are nice and shiny. Same with the main ground cable that is connected to the block. Then, re-install them. Just tightening them is a waste of time. Corroded is corroded, no matter how tight you make them.
Particularly the red wire to the starter solenoid. The voltage is always going to drop if you monitor it during starting. When it starts to drop down around 10v, you will notice the HUD resets itself to oil pressure on the right side. That's when you should have a new battery picked out.
Was your new battery charged fully before you put it in the car? How long ago/how many miles ago, was it put in the car? Now, with this problem, did you measure the resting battery voltage, say in the morning before you try and start up the car? You may have a bad or dead battery. If the voltage is low, charge it up with a good battery charger, not a trickle charger or "maintainer", and see what the voltage is a few hours later and then again the next morning. A fully charged battery should be at 12.6-12.8V and should hold that easily overnight. See if your battery is good as a starting place before you look for other solutions.
Battery Volts
