It's alive!!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
It's alive!!!!
SHE LIVES!
My LS3/LS1 Hybrid monster is alive!! Here's a short walkaround I just shot: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_y...ew?usp=sharing
P0443 is EVAP Circuit fault, which makes sense since I haven't installed the EVAP lines yet, or may not at all, unless Bill or someone tells me it's advisable.
Like in the vid, there's an oil leak coming down from behind the block through the bell housing vent port just over next to the starter. I did put 8qts of oil in her to compensate for the oil cooler, but that may be a bit much. Also a weep from around the water pump housing. I'm thinking once the block and assorted new gaskets have a chance to heat up and seal properly that might go away, but I'll probably end up pulling the WP and re-sealing it just to be sure. Never pushed it above 1500 rpm's during this first run, and I doubt I'll go past 4krpms' during the first 500miles for break in. But, I'm happy, she's finally alive! Whew!
My LS3/LS1 Hybrid monster is alive!! Here's a short walkaround I just shot: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_y...ew?usp=sharing
P0443 is EVAP Circuit fault, which makes sense since I haven't installed the EVAP lines yet, or may not at all, unless Bill or someone tells me it's advisable.
Like in the vid, there's an oil leak coming down from behind the block through the bell housing vent port just over next to the starter. I did put 8qts of oil in her to compensate for the oil cooler, but that may be a bit much. Also a weep from around the water pump housing. I'm thinking once the block and assorted new gaskets have a chance to heat up and seal properly that might go away, but I'll probably end up pulling the WP and re-sealing it just to be sure. Never pushed it above 1500 rpm's during this first run, and I doubt I'll go past 4krpms' during the first 500miles for break in. But, I'm happy, she's finally alive! Whew!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 502
Likes: 4
From: Huntsville, AL Relaxed!
SHE LIVES!
My LS3/LS1 Hybrid monster is alive!! Here's a short walkaround I just shot: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_y...ew?usp=sharing
P0443 is EVAP Circuit fault, which makes sense since I haven't installed the EVAP lines yet, or may not at all, unless Bill or someone tells me it's advisable.
Like in the vid, there's an oil leak coming down from behind the block through the bell housing vent port just over next to the starter. I did put 8qts of oil in her to compensate for the oil cooler, but that may be a bit much. Also a weep from around the water pump housing. I'm thinking once the block and assorted new gaskets have a chance to heat up and seal properly that might go away, but I'll probably end up pulling the WP and re-sealing it just to be sure. Never pushed it above 1500 rpm's during this first run, and I doubt I'll go past 4krpms' during the first 500miles for break in. But, I'm happy, she's finally alive! Whew!
My LS3/LS1 Hybrid monster is alive!! Here's a short walkaround I just shot: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_y...ew?usp=sharing
P0443 is EVAP Circuit fault, which makes sense since I haven't installed the EVAP lines yet, or may not at all, unless Bill or someone tells me it's advisable.
Like in the vid, there's an oil leak coming down from behind the block through the bell housing vent port just over next to the starter. I did put 8qts of oil in her to compensate for the oil cooler, but that may be a bit much. Also a weep from around the water pump housing. I'm thinking once the block and assorted new gaskets have a chance to heat up and seal properly that might go away, but I'll probably end up pulling the WP and re-sealing it just to be sure. Never pushed it above 1500 rpm's during this first run, and I doubt I'll go past 4krpms' during the first 500miles for break in. But, I'm happy, she's finally alive! Whew!
Fantastic!! Congratulations!
I can't wait to read about the performance you're gonna get out of it!
Regards,
KoreaJon
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
Oil pressure...
32 seems a bit low as cold as it was...are you using super thin oil?...My LS1 sits around 42 idling cold and will go to 28 to 32 when it supre hot out...sounds good!...nice work.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ies/woohoo.gif
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ies/woohoo.gif
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
32 seems a bit low as cold as it was...are you using super thin oil?...My LS1 sits around 42 idling cold and will go to 28 to 32 when it supre hot out...sounds good!...nice work.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ies/woohoo.gif
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ies/woohoo.gif
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
Oil pressure
i would get it hot and let it drain really good, and run the Royal Purple 10-30 for 500 miles and then go to 10-30 mobil 1...I have been reading that LS3's run pretty low oil pressure, but you should be around 40 at cold startup and 22 to 28 psi hot idling...i would be worried if it was lower than 28 at cruising speed with oil temp 210 t0 230 and under 20 at idle...
Is it a crate motor, or did you build it, or have it built?...make sure your op gauge is accurate as well...
Like i said, that sounds like low oil pressure for a fresh engine at that low a temp...the oil your using for break in is all wrong,...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
I didn't build it, Michigan Motor did. The builder told me to run the diesel oil for the first 500 miles, then switch to dyno oil for another 500, then synthetic. As for the oil pressure, don't know what to tell you. Maybe it'll go up once the rings are seated? I do agree Mark, I was wondering about using the diesel oil..didn't sit right with me either. I'll call my builder and confirm.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
So Dan told me it didn't have to be diesel oil, any non-synthetic with zinc and phosphorus will do. He recommended diesel oil because that's what he used when building his race motors. So, I'm off to pick up some Royal Purple. Thanks!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
Oh well, just do what he says since he built it and will have to warranty it if it goes south...I have built engines for around 30 years, and have never heard of anyone using that type of oil for break in on a gasoline engine...you do want the parts to wear a tiny bit and mesh together and diesel oil is for extreme pressures and seems like it would prevent that from happening...
Regardless, it has to have a compatible API rating for the metal composition in the bearings and rings...
Like i said, do what he says because he will be eating it, and you can say you followed his instructions...unfortunately you will be eating the labor...Make sure your oil pressure gauge is accurate!...
good luck!...
Regardless, it has to have a compatible API rating for the metal composition in the bearings and rings...
Like i said, do what he says because he will be eating it, and you can say you followed his instructions...unfortunately you will be eating the labor...Make sure your oil pressure gauge is accurate!...
good luck!...
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
oil..
I knew something didn't sound right about using Diesel oil...
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
Jeremy Wright, Noria Corporation
Tags: automotive, viscosity
I’ve been instructing the Fundamentals of Machinery Lubrication course for a few years now, and many times the course has been the birthplace of the articles I’ve written. The questions and discussions in the course are very representative of what the average maintenance professional is curious about. Most tend to like the discussions about passenger car and truck oils because they not only affect them at work but also at home. In fact, I use this curiosity to my advantage. If I ever notice a subject is starting to bore an audience, I’ll find a way to incorporate an automotive twist to it. Soon all the ears seem to perk up. This article is no different. I plan to explore the similarities and differences between gasoline and diesel engine oils to appease your curiosity.
In the broadest sense, gas and diesel engine oils have the same anatomy or makeup. They are formulated from the blending of base oils and additives to achieve a set of desired performance characteristics. From this simple definition, we start to diverge when examining the lubricant’s required performance for each engine type.
Emissions and the Catalytic Converter
A catalytic converter is a housing that contains porous metal filler located between the engine and muffler in the exhaust system. Its role is to convert toxic emissions coming from the engine to stable byproducts before they enter the atmosphere. Some of the byproducts of combustion (lead, zinc and phosphorus) can severely cripple the converter’s ability to perform this job. Therein lies the first major difference between the oils. Diesel engine oils have a higher anti-wear (AW) load in the form of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). The catalytic converters in diesel systems are designed to be able to deal with this problem, while the gasoline systems are not. This is one of the main reasons you don’t want to use a diesel engine oil in your gasoline engine. If your automobile was built prior to 1975, there is a good chance it does not have a catalytic converter, and thus the above statements do not apply.
Viscosity
Viscosity is the single most important property of a lubricant. When I am working as a consultant and designing a lubrication program, one of the first steps I take is to calculate required viscosities. Getting the right viscosity is of the utmost importance. The selected viscosity needs to be pumpable at the lowest start-up temperature while still protecting the components at in-service temperatures.
Typically, diesel engine oil will have a higher viscosity. If we were to put this higher viscosity in a gasoline engine, several problems might arise. The first is heat generation from internal fluid friction. I’ve covered before how this heat affects the life of an oil. A good rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature, you cut the life in half. The second problem is the low-temperature pumpability of this higher viscosity. During cold starts, the oil may be very thick and difficult for the oil pump to deliver to the vital engine components in the lifter valley. This most certainly will lead to premature wear, as the components will be interacting without the benefit of lubrication.
Additive Levels
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.
Machinery Lubrication (10/2011)
Source http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-engine-oils-
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
Jeremy Wright, Noria Corporation
Tags: automotive, viscosity
I’ve been instructing the Fundamentals of Machinery Lubrication course for a few years now, and many times the course has been the birthplace of the articles I’ve written. The questions and discussions in the course are very representative of what the average maintenance professional is curious about. Most tend to like the discussions about passenger car and truck oils because they not only affect them at work but also at home. In fact, I use this curiosity to my advantage. If I ever notice a subject is starting to bore an audience, I’ll find a way to incorporate an automotive twist to it. Soon all the ears seem to perk up. This article is no different. I plan to explore the similarities and differences between gasoline and diesel engine oils to appease your curiosity.
In the broadest sense, gas and diesel engine oils have the same anatomy or makeup. They are formulated from the blending of base oils and additives to achieve a set of desired performance characteristics. From this simple definition, we start to diverge when examining the lubricant’s required performance for each engine type.
Emissions and the Catalytic Converter
A catalytic converter is a housing that contains porous metal filler located between the engine and muffler in the exhaust system. Its role is to convert toxic emissions coming from the engine to stable byproducts before they enter the atmosphere. Some of the byproducts of combustion (lead, zinc and phosphorus) can severely cripple the converter’s ability to perform this job. Therein lies the first major difference between the oils. Diesel engine oils have a higher anti-wear (AW) load in the form of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). The catalytic converters in diesel systems are designed to be able to deal with this problem, while the gasoline systems are not. This is one of the main reasons you don’t want to use a diesel engine oil in your gasoline engine. If your automobile was built prior to 1975, there is a good chance it does not have a catalytic converter, and thus the above statements do not apply.
Viscosity
Viscosity is the single most important property of a lubricant. When I am working as a consultant and designing a lubrication program, one of the first steps I take is to calculate required viscosities. Getting the right viscosity is of the utmost importance. The selected viscosity needs to be pumpable at the lowest start-up temperature while still protecting the components at in-service temperatures.
Typically, diesel engine oil will have a higher viscosity. If we were to put this higher viscosity in a gasoline engine, several problems might arise. The first is heat generation from internal fluid friction. I’ve covered before how this heat affects the life of an oil. A good rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature, you cut the life in half. The second problem is the low-temperature pumpability of this higher viscosity. During cold starts, the oil may be very thick and difficult for the oil pump to deliver to the vital engine components in the lifter valley. This most certainly will lead to premature wear, as the components will be interacting without the benefit of lubrication.
Additive Levels
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.
Machinery Lubrication (10/2011)
Source http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-engine-oils-
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 319
Likes: 13
From: Macomb Michigan
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I knew something didn't sound right about using Diesel oil...
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
Jeremy Wright, Noria Corporation
Tags: automotive, viscosity
I’ve been instructing the Fundamentals of Machinery Lubrication course for a few years now, and many times the course has been the birthplace of the articles I’ve written. The questions and discussions in the course are very representative of what the average maintenance professional is curious about. Most tend to like the discussions about passenger car and truck oils because they not only affect them at work but also at home. In fact, I use this curiosity to my advantage. If I ever notice a subject is starting to bore an audience, I’ll find a way to incorporate an automotive twist to it. Soon all the ears seem to perk up. This article is no different. I plan to explore the similarities and differences between gasoline and diesel engine oils to appease your curiosity.
In the broadest sense, gas and diesel engine oils have the same anatomy or makeup. They are formulated from the blending of base oils and additives to achieve a set of desired performance characteristics. From this simple definition, we start to diverge when examining the lubricant’s required performance for each engine type.
Emissions and the Catalytic Converter
A catalytic converter is a housing that contains porous metal filler located between the engine and muffler in the exhaust system. Its role is to convert toxic emissions coming from the engine to stable byproducts before they enter the atmosphere. Some of the byproducts of combustion (lead, zinc and phosphorus) can severely cripple the converter’s ability to perform this job. Therein lies the first major difference between the oils. Diesel engine oils have a higher anti-wear (AW) load in the form of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). The catalytic converters in diesel systems are designed to be able to deal with this problem, while the gasoline systems are not. This is one of the main reasons you don’t want to use a diesel engine oil in your gasoline engine. If your automobile was built prior to 1975, there is a good chance it does not have a catalytic converter, and thus the above statements do not apply.
Viscosity
Viscosity is the single most important property of a lubricant. When I am working as a consultant and designing a lubrication program, one of the first steps I take is to calculate required viscosities. Getting the right viscosity is of the utmost importance. The selected viscosity needs to be pumpable at the lowest start-up temperature while still protecting the components at in-service temperatures.
Typically, diesel engine oil will have a higher viscosity. If we were to put this higher viscosity in a gasoline engine, several problems might arise. The first is heat generation from internal fluid friction. I’ve covered before how this heat affects the life of an oil. A good rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature, you cut the life in half. The second problem is the low-temperature pumpability of this higher viscosity. During cold starts, the oil may be very thick and difficult for the oil pump to deliver to the vital engine components in the lifter valley. This most certainly will lead to premature wear, as the components will be interacting without the benefit of lubrication.
Additive Levels
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.
Machinery Lubrication (10/2011)
Source http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-engine-oils-
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
Jeremy Wright, Noria Corporation
Tags: automotive, viscosity
I’ve been instructing the Fundamentals of Machinery Lubrication course for a few years now, and many times the course has been the birthplace of the articles I’ve written. The questions and discussions in the course are very representative of what the average maintenance professional is curious about. Most tend to like the discussions about passenger car and truck oils because they not only affect them at work but also at home. In fact, I use this curiosity to my advantage. If I ever notice a subject is starting to bore an audience, I’ll find a way to incorporate an automotive twist to it. Soon all the ears seem to perk up. This article is no different. I plan to explore the similarities and differences between gasoline and diesel engine oils to appease your curiosity.
In the broadest sense, gas and diesel engine oils have the same anatomy or makeup. They are formulated from the blending of base oils and additives to achieve a set of desired performance characteristics. From this simple definition, we start to diverge when examining the lubricant’s required performance for each engine type.
Emissions and the Catalytic Converter
A catalytic converter is a housing that contains porous metal filler located between the engine and muffler in the exhaust system. Its role is to convert toxic emissions coming from the engine to stable byproducts before they enter the atmosphere. Some of the byproducts of combustion (lead, zinc and phosphorus) can severely cripple the converter’s ability to perform this job. Therein lies the first major difference between the oils. Diesel engine oils have a higher anti-wear (AW) load in the form of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). The catalytic converters in diesel systems are designed to be able to deal with this problem, while the gasoline systems are not. This is one of the main reasons you don’t want to use a diesel engine oil in your gasoline engine. If your automobile was built prior to 1975, there is a good chance it does not have a catalytic converter, and thus the above statements do not apply.
Viscosity
Viscosity is the single most important property of a lubricant. When I am working as a consultant and designing a lubrication program, one of the first steps I take is to calculate required viscosities. Getting the right viscosity is of the utmost importance. The selected viscosity needs to be pumpable at the lowest start-up temperature while still protecting the components at in-service temperatures.
Typically, diesel engine oil will have a higher viscosity. If we were to put this higher viscosity in a gasoline engine, several problems might arise. The first is heat generation from internal fluid friction. I’ve covered before how this heat affects the life of an oil. A good rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature, you cut the life in half. The second problem is the low-temperature pumpability of this higher viscosity. During cold starts, the oil may be very thick and difficult for the oil pump to deliver to the vital engine components in the lifter valley. This most certainly will lead to premature wear, as the components will be interacting without the benefit of lubrication.
Additive Levels
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.
Machinery Lubrication (10/2011)
Source http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-engine-oils-
The Big Guy !
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
First drive impressions
Okay, got the front clip back on last night, bled the everlovin' sh*t out of the brakes, and took her for a ride. I'm trying to get that first 500 miles out of the way before I get the tune done so she's broken in. Still cold up here in MI and oil temp never got over 140*, water never over 189*. Shifting up I never went over 4k but that's me being nervous I guess. Not a hiccup. Sounds awesome, pulls like a freight train.
The .650 springs make the loudest sewing machine sound I've heard outside a roller cam'd car! Oil pressure climbed as expected, was sitting around 56psi in 5th @2500rpm's.
At idle oil pressure held steady at 30psi with oil temp @140*. 495 miles to go!
Okay, got the front clip back on last night, bled the everlovin' sh*t out of the brakes, and took her for a ride. I'm trying to get that first 500 miles out of the way before I get the tune done so she's broken in. Still cold up here in MI and oil temp never got over 140*, water never over 189*. Shifting up I never went over 4k but that's me being nervous I guess. Not a hiccup. Sounds awesome, pulls like a freight train.
The .650 springs make the loudest sewing machine sound I've heard outside a roller cam'd car! Oil pressure climbed as expected, was sitting around 56psi in 5th @2500rpm's.
At idle oil pressure held steady at 30psi with oil temp @140*. 495 miles to go!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
Two-Month Update:
Thanks to all who provided tips and tricks to getting this hybrid LS3/LS1 together and running. Unfortunately for me, all is not roses and unicorns. I'll explain:
So, back in Feb. I got the engine in, plumbed, and running. After the first real drive (back to Michigan Motor Exchange to show it off) when I returned I noticed a sheen of oil and droplets forming on the lower bellhousing bolts. Concerned, I called MME and told the owner of the condition. Long story short, in the two months I've had the car back together, they've (reportedly) replaced the rear main seal and assembly and upper oil pan gasket. The car's been back to MME three times now, and still it leaks oil from at the rear of the engine. A good note, I have 3/4ths of a tune done on the car by Don Walsh Performance (great shop, great group of people! I highly recommend!) and he's agreed to get me in and out once I can solve the oil leak issue.
The car is going to Kenny Walters at Lakes Area Auto Center (formerly Mufflers and More) who, upon reflection, I should have gone to in the first place. He installed my previous LS2. So, two weeks until NCM track weekend and hopefully I can report back a successful event!
If you have questions regarding this build and what I had to do to get it done, hit me up here or PM me.
Jamie
Thanks to all who provided tips and tricks to getting this hybrid LS3/LS1 together and running. Unfortunately for me, all is not roses and unicorns. I'll explain:
So, back in Feb. I got the engine in, plumbed, and running. After the first real drive (back to Michigan Motor Exchange to show it off) when I returned I noticed a sheen of oil and droplets forming on the lower bellhousing bolts. Concerned, I called MME and told the owner of the condition. Long story short, in the two months I've had the car back together, they've (reportedly) replaced the rear main seal and assembly and upper oil pan gasket. The car's been back to MME three times now, and still it leaks oil from at the rear of the engine. A good note, I have 3/4ths of a tune done on the car by Don Walsh Performance (great shop, great group of people! I highly recommend!) and he's agreed to get me in and out once I can solve the oil leak issue.
The car is going to Kenny Walters at Lakes Area Auto Center (formerly Mufflers and More) who, upon reflection, I should have gone to in the first place. He installed my previous LS2. So, two weeks until NCM track weekend and hopefully I can report back a successful event!
If you have questions regarding this build and what I had to do to get it done, hit me up here or PM me.
Jamie
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
Two-Month Update:
Thanks to all who provided tips and tricks to getting this hybrid LS3/LS1 together and running. Unfortunately for me, all is not roses and unicorns. I'll explain:
So, back in Feb. I got the engine in, plumbed, and running. After the first real drive (back to Michigan Motor Exchange to show it off) when I returned I noticed a sheen of oil and droplets forming on the lower bellhousing bolts. Concerned, I called MME and told the owner of the condition. Long story short, in the two months I've had the car back together, they've (reportedly) replaced the rear main seal and assembly and upper oil pan gasket. The car's been back to MME three times now, and still it leaks oil from at the rear of the engine. A good note, I have 3/4ths of a tune done on the car by Don Walsh Performance (great shop, great group of people! I highly recommend!) and he's agreed to get me in and out once I can solve the oil leak issue.
The car is going to Kenny Walters at Lakes Area Auto Center (formerly Mufflers and More) who, upon reflection, I should have gone to in the first place. He installed my previous LS2. So, two weeks until NCM track weekend and hopefully I can report back a successful event!
If you have questions regarding this build and what I had to do to get it done, hit me up here or PM me.
Jamie
Thanks to all who provided tips and tricks to getting this hybrid LS3/LS1 together and running. Unfortunately for me, all is not roses and unicorns. I'll explain:
So, back in Feb. I got the engine in, plumbed, and running. After the first real drive (back to Michigan Motor Exchange to show it off) when I returned I noticed a sheen of oil and droplets forming on the lower bellhousing bolts. Concerned, I called MME and told the owner of the condition. Long story short, in the two months I've had the car back together, they've (reportedly) replaced the rear main seal and assembly and upper oil pan gasket. The car's been back to MME three times now, and still it leaks oil from at the rear of the engine. A good note, I have 3/4ths of a tune done on the car by Don Walsh Performance (great shop, great group of people! I highly recommend!) and he's agreed to get me in and out once I can solve the oil leak issue.
The car is going to Kenny Walters at Lakes Area Auto Center (formerly Mufflers and More) who, upon reflection, I should have gone to in the first place. He installed my previous LS2. So, two weeks until NCM track weekend and hopefully I can report back a successful event!
If you have questions regarding this build and what I had to do to get it done, hit me up here or PM me.
Jamie
They sound like old school engine builders (using diesel oil for break in), so hopefully they got everything else right...An LS1 is a 350 Chevy(348 exactly) but they are a completely different animals than the early 350's and tolerances are much tighter...Just like the Evolution Harley Davidson engines...the only thing that is the same is they are V-Twins and the duration of the crankshaft and thats it...
I'll send you good mojo, but it will have to come out if they can't fix the leak..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 72
From: Seminole, FL
Wishing you good MoJo, as Mark says.
I've been an avid reader of these threads.
As Mark pointed out, I'm an OLD SCHOOL, once upon a time Master Tech, certified.
BUT
Before I touch ONE NUT, or ONE BOLT, on my engine, I'm reading every thread I can find.
Learning such things as....
My terror at "LOW OIL PRESSURE" is unfounded.
I bought a spare engine with only 19K on it, because I "THOUGHT" I had an oil problem with my existing engine (old school stuff here) learning about the fact that 28 to 23 psi at full hot temperature and idling is normal (?).... Scared the bejesus outta me...
Old school again had me up oil viscosity to 5w-50 for a while. then noticed the rocker noise. ugh. More Reading, and back to 0w-40 oil for my 124K motor.
Now everything appears to be very happy, and maybe I don't actually need an engine replacement.
BUT it's nice and comforting to have that Low Mileage Engine out back, Just in Case.
I've been an avid reader of these threads.
As Mark pointed out, I'm an OLD SCHOOL, once upon a time Master Tech, certified.
BUT
Before I touch ONE NUT, or ONE BOLT, on my engine, I'm reading every thread I can find.
Learning such things as....
My terror at "LOW OIL PRESSURE" is unfounded.
I bought a spare engine with only 19K on it, because I "THOUGHT" I had an oil problem with my existing engine (old school stuff here) learning about the fact that 28 to 23 psi at full hot temperature and idling is normal (?).... Scared the bejesus outta me...
Old school again had me up oil viscosity to 5w-50 for a while. then noticed the rocker noise. ugh. More Reading, and back to 0w-40 oil for my 124K motor.
Now everything appears to be very happy, and maybe I don't actually need an engine replacement.
BUT it's nice and comforting to have that Low Mileage Engine out back, Just in Case.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Yettem California
Wishing you good MoJo, as Mark says.
I've been an avid reader of these threads.
As Mark pointed out, I'm an OLD SCHOOL, once upon a time Master Tech, certified.
BUT
Before I touch ONE NUT, or ONE BOLT, on my engine, I'm reading every thread I can find.
Learning such things as....
My terror at "LOW OIL PRESSURE" is unfounded.
I bought a spare engine with only 19K on it, because I "THOUGHT" I had an oil problem with my existing engine (old school stuff here) learning about the fact that 28 to 23 psi at full hot temperature and idling is normal (?).... Scared the bejesus outta me...
Old school again had me up oil viscosity to 5w-50 for a while. then noticed the rocker noise. ugh. More Reading, and back to 0w-40 oil for my 124K motor.
Now everything appears to be very happy, and maybe I don't actually need an engine replacement.
BUT it's nice and comforting to have that Low Mileage Engine out back, Just in Case.
I've been an avid reader of these threads.
As Mark pointed out, I'm an OLD SCHOOL, once upon a time Master Tech, certified.
BUT
Before I touch ONE NUT, or ONE BOLT, on my engine, I'm reading every thread I can find.
Learning such things as....
My terror at "LOW OIL PRESSURE" is unfounded.
I bought a spare engine with only 19K on it, because I "THOUGHT" I had an oil problem with my existing engine (old school stuff here) learning about the fact that 28 to 23 psi at full hot temperature and idling is normal (?).... Scared the bejesus outta me...
Old school again had me up oil viscosity to 5w-50 for a while. then noticed the rocker noise. ugh. More Reading, and back to 0w-40 oil for my 124K motor.
Now everything appears to be very happy, and maybe I don't actually need an engine replacement.
BUT it's nice and comforting to have that Low Mileage Engine out back, Just in Case.
I also will read everything i can before i touch an engine or a car as well...I always dreamed of having all the info we have now when is was working in shops...Alldata was ok, but nothing to what we have now..
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
From: in ur mirror, 'bout to pass.. CA
You'll both be pleased that at idle, while hot, this engine ticked over with 30 psi @ 900rpms. The oil pressure for this build wasn't in question; just the way the parts have come together. But, we'll see. I trust Kenny, and in retrospect (isn't it always?) I should have gone with him for the engine build. I just hope this doesn't become an expensive lesson.